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ANOTHER BROKEN EGG CAFE

1142 N. Buckner Blvd, at Garland Rd
(214-954-7182)
Open Mon–Fri 7–2, Sat & Sun 7–3.
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$

Dallas

Seafood /
French

(From August 2011)

Lobster et Fromage sounded not only uptown but irresistible, so we ordered fresh-squeezed orange juice and read our paper until the platter arrived. The gigantic omelet came brimming with cream cheese, garlic-sautéed Maine lobster, and diced tomatoes, all topped with Brie and a champagne cream sauce. To boot, there were diced potatoes and a crisp English muffin. That fine breakfast pretty much guaranteed a future return to this bright, sunny Louisiana import. 

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AU PETIT PARIS

2048 Colquitt
(713-524-7070)
Lunch Tue–Fri 11–2. Dinner Mon–Wed 5:30–9:30, Thur–Sat 5:30–10. Closed Sun. Reservations recommended.
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$$-$$$

Houston

French

 

(From September 2010) At this tiny slice of Paris tucked away in a neighborhood bungalow, expect good (and generous) entrées but more-interesting starters. We were smitten with a salad of just-picked mesclun. And we loved our special toasted croustade of steamed mussels in a heady sauce of white wine, herbs, and garlic. But what a shame that our spanking-fresh filet of amberjack was overcooked and our old-school chicken fricassee was bland. Our last bite, fortunately, was the best: a bracingly tart lemon custard. Bar.

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AVA KITCHEN AND WHISKEY BAR

2800 Kirby Dr, at Westheimer
(713-386-6460)
Mon–Wed 11–10, Thur–Sat 11–11. Closed Sun.
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$$$

Houston

Mediterranean /
French

 

(From May 2011) The Schiller–Del Grande folks have done it again—created an übercool space and a menu to match. Of the long list of small plates, we chose spicy coppa and taleggio with dried mission figs and a fennel salad; a densely flavored Provençal tomato soup with basil citrus pesto; and the Ava/Alto salad—greens, beets, chickpeas, and artichokes. Of the large plates, a grilled quail with sweet peppers and creamy polenta and a lively pappardelle with duck and wild mushrooms outshone a less interesting flattened chicken breast with salsa and almonds. Service is still a bit confused but well intentioned. Bar.

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BIJOUX

Inwood Village, 5450 W. Lovers Ln
(214-350-6100)
Dinner Mon–Sat 5:30–10. Closed Sun.
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$$$$

Dallas

French

 

(From January 2011)

The serenity of the elegant room is alone worth the price of the excellent food. Picture a lovely sweet-potato agnolotti with black truffles, beurre noisette, and Parmigiano-Reggiano, the taste as luxe as the presentation. Beautifully seared scallops came atop smoked-tomato polenta with a small portion of pancetta-sprinkled brussels sprouts. As for dessert, a so-called apple napoleon turned out to be an unexpected multipart creation consisting of an apple fritter, ricotta mousse, and spiced caramel anglaise. Bar.

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BISTRO VATEL

218 E. Olmos Dr
(210-828-3141)
Lunch Tue–Fri 11:30–1:30. Dinner Tue–Sat 5:30–10, Sun 5–9. Closed Mon. Reservations accepted.
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$$-$$$

San Antonio

French /
Home Cooking

 

(From January 2012)

You can spot a neighborhood favorite (and a tony neighborhood at that) by watching for regulars who make it their home at lunch and dinner; the people watching here, quite apart from the meal, is tasty indeed. Meanwhile, from the kitchen flow plates and platters of seasonal European classics with a French disposition. A recent blackboard special included scallopini of locally purveyed venison; fork-tender and richly flavorful with green peppercorns, it almost had the timbre of a rich organ meat. On the same blackboard: a fresh niçoise salad with a tumult of greens and rare ahi tuna.

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BISTROT MIRABELLE

8127 Mesa Dr
(512-346-7900)
Lunch Mon–Fri 11–5. Dinner Mon–Sat 5–10. Brunch Sat & Sun 10–3
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$$

Austin

French

 

(From February 2012)

The more things change, the more they stay the same. In the case of Mirabelle, the changes come in the form of new owners, a new chef, and an authentically French menu, while the friendly service and warm neighborhood vibe remain. Duck rillettes pleased us more in taste than in presentation, but butter leaf lettuce with an herbed vinaigrette achieved both eye and palate appeal. Classic trout meunière hit the right notes (citrusy, savory, and buttery), and a merguez sausage sandwich with crispy french fries made a lasting impression. We swooned over a chocolate custard tart sprinkled with sea salt and an apple galette served with brown butter ice cream. Beer & wine.

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BL BISTRO

2203 S. Austin
(806-355-7838)
Lunch Mon–Fri 11–1:45. Dinner Mon–Sat 5–10. Brunch Sun 11–2.
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$$

Amarillo

French

 

(From January 2011) Amarillo loves this neighborhood spot, where the servers are friendly and the bartenders knowledgeable. Weekly specials come complete with suggested wine pairings, and entréeS cover the map, from fresh seafood and duck to lamb and beef. Owners Brian and Lizzie Mason have imported menu favorites from Zen 721 (their now defunct Asian fusion endeavor) for even more variety. Start with the delicious rock shrimp tempura salad or the sampler of grilled quail, prosciutto-wrapped scallops, and bacon-wrapped shrimp. The plentiful pastas (blackened salmon tortellini, angel hair with Sicilian meatballs) never disappoint, and we adore the roasted duck with creamy blue cheese risotto. Bar.

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BLEU BISTRO

Prosperity Bank Building, 500 N. Water, at Schatzel
(361-653-2170)
Dinner Tue–Thur 5–10, Fri & Sat 5–midnight. Closed Sun & Mon.
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$-$$$

Corpus Christi

American /
French

 

(From May 2011) The new year has brought downtown Corpus Christi a neighborhood-style restaurant as congenial as any good Paris bistro; the menu (as much American as French) should appeal to a range of ages and appetites, and service is surprisingly good for such a new spot, with careful attention given to small details—a chilled plate for the salad niçoise, a warm one for the savory braised short ribs. Popular at our table were an appetizer of fried gnocchi with house-made mayonnaise and a creamy potato and leek soup. But surpassing those was a simple dessert of poached pears with homemade vanilla bean ice cream. Make sure to check out the retro cocktails and the bistro’s namesake 500 bottles of wine at the Staghound Bar. Bar.

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BRASSERIE 19

1962 W. Gray
(713-524-1919)
Open Mon 11-9, Tue-Thur 11-10, Fri & Sat 11-11, Sun 10-9.
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$$–$$$

Houston

French

 

Photograph by Debora Smail

(From January 2012)

Wildly popular, this long, lean entry into the hottest restaurant sweepstakes has its detractors (mainly for the noise level and inconsistencies in food and service). All we can say is that we’ve not encountered those problems. We were utterly happy with chèvre ravioli atop warm little beets and seared diver scallops accompanied by a pea-fennel purée. And we are eager to go back for grilled wild salmon with asparagus and peaches, as well as for the big-fisted steak au poivre with spaetzle. Bar.

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BRASSERIE MAX & JULIE

4315 Montrose Blvd
(713-524-0070)
Open Mon 5:30–10, Tue & Wed 11–2:30 & 5:30–10, Thur & Fri 11–2:30 & 5:30–11, Sat 11–11, Sun 11–9.
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$$–$$$

Houston

French

 

(From January 2011) Our go-to spot for French comfort food, Max & Julie does a fine steak au poivre with a cone of crisp fries. The kitchen is equally adept with Boeuf à la Wayne, four pieces of grilled steak on a skewer with a choice of dipping sauces (béarnaise and peppercorn are our faves). Of course, we also like the thick salmon, grilled medium-rare, with a side of both wild and tame mushrooms. And we love to share the huge goat cheese salad and a nice wine while enjoying the pretty, wood-trimmed interior. If weather permits, a seat on the outdoor patio is de rigueur. Beer & wine.

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