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BEDFORD
1001 Studewood (713-880-1001) Lunch Mon-Fri 11:30-2:30. Dinner Sun-Thur 5:30-10, Fri & Sat 5:30-11. Brunch Sun 11-2:30. map | latest review | photo | access ++ | add to library | |
$$$ |
Houston
| Asian / Mediterranean |
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(From April 2009) Robert Gadsby’s new, Mediterranean/Asian enterprise (following his fling with Orient-oriented dining at Soma) rates high on the imagination scale. Witness a so-called wild mushroom risotto—made with Texmati rice—with wafer-thin slices of grape and a Thai red curry sauce. Or the lamb osso buco, a huge chunk of quite tender meat, with caramelized “melting” onions, braised fennel, and a pomegranate seed garnish. Or a butternut squash “cappuccino” soup topped with a little salad of celery, apple, and granola. If you’re sensitive to noise, ask for a table away from the bar crowd. The artful, contemporary space, with tall plate-glass windows, is quite “live.” The “chef’s table,” the bar in front of the open kitchen, is much less intimidating than most such venues. Bar.
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BELLA
2626 Howell (214-855-5001) Open Mon–Wed 11:30–2 & 5–10, Thur & Fri 11:30–2 & 5–11, Sat 5–11, Sun 11:30–11. web site | map | latest review | photo | access ++ | add to library | |
$$–$$$ |
Dallas
| Eclectic / Mediterranean |
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(From September 2009) Sleek decor, an outdoor patio, and a slew of beautiful people add up to a must-try spot. First place on our visit went to an appetizer of roasted wild mushrooms with generous shavings of Parmesan. A close second was pappardelle lavishly sauced with veal bolognese and graced with a plump orb of ricotta. On the other hand, lackluster is how we’d describe the citrusy shrimp salad with heirloom tomatoes and smoked mozzarella—the cheese dominated the plate. Lemon ricotta cheesecake made amends: fabulous. Bar.
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BERNARD MEDITERRANEAN RESTAURANT
212 Grande Blvd, Tyler (903-534-0265) Lunch Tue–Fri 11–2. Dinner Mon–Sat 5:30–10. Closed Sun. web site | map | latest review | access ++ | add to library | |
$$-$$$ |
Tyler
| Italian / Mediterranean |
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(From February 2010) We bypassed the tried-and-true menu at this upscale spot and ventured into nightly-specials territory. Salmon came delicately crusted with almonds and accompanied by a lovely mustard sauce, while trout was stuffed with crab and shrimp and served with a light marinara cream sauce. Friendly and attentive service capped off a perfect evening. Bar.
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BISTRO LOUISE
2900 S. Hulen (817-922-9244) Lunch Mon–Sat 11–2. Dinner Tue–Thur 5:30–9, Fri & Sat 5:30–10. Brunch Sun 11–2 (prix fixe $25–$95). web site | map | latest review | photo | access ++ | add to library | |
$$$ |
Fort Worth
| New American / Mediterranean |
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(From December 2009) Informal enough to be a neighborhood spot but classed up with French tableware and pastel linens, Louise Lamensdorf’s charming venue is just the right home for her ever-changing menu. On a recent visit we had a delicious carrot-cumin soup, followed by savory pan-seared scallops served with savoy cabbage, fingerling potatoes, and a rich caviar beurre blanc. Buttermilk chocolate cake went per-fectly with the house-made cinnamon ice cream. Bar.
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CAFE BYBLOS
6134 Richmond Ave (832-251-0505) Open Sun–Thur 11–11, Fri & Sat 11–2 a.m. Reservations accepted. map | latest review | photo | access ++ | add to library | |
$$-$$$ |
Houston
| Mediterranean |
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(From July 2009) Vast crowds could fit comfortably into this capacious Mediterranean dining room, whose tables and booths face a stage where entertainers shimmy and shake on weekends. On a slow weeknight, however, we were riveted by one well-prepared dish after another. Starter plates of baba ganouj and hummus, along with batinjan el-rahib (eggplant with lemon and garlic) and grilled halloumi (a mild goat or sheep cheese), were wiped clean before we faced equally fine kebab platters: marinated beef; minced lamb with parsley, onion, and pine nuts; and lamb in a spicy tomato sauce. A belly dancer would only have been a distraction. Bar.
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CATALAN
5555 Washington Ave (713-426-4260) Open Tue–Thur 11–10, Fri 11–11, Sat 5–11, Sun 5–9. Closed Mon. web site | map | reserve through OpenTable | latest review | photo | access ++ | add to library | |
$$-$$$ |
Houston
| Mediterranean |
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(From April 2010) This hugely popular, high-energy space shows no signs of slowing down. Our small group enjoyed shareables like foie gras bonbons, little mouthfuls of decadence; calamari with a knockout jalapeño-lime dressing; a duck confit papusa; and tasty pork fritters. Standout entrées included seared flounder atop corn-and-bacon chowder (the kitchen appears to have gone whole hog, as pork is a star in many menu items); grilled shrimp with goat-cheese-and-bacon grits; and succulent roasted chicken with thyme-spiked mashed potatoes. Bar.
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CEDARS MEDITERRANEAN MEZZA
Preston Center, 6125 Berkshire Ln, at Northwest Hwy (Loop 12) (214-363-1717) Open Mon–Sat 11–9, Sun 11–8. web site | map | latest review | access ++ | add to library | |
$ |
Dallas
| Mediterranean |
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(From April 2010) Turquoise accents and dark woods make a pleasant venue for plenty of good and good-for-you Mediterranean dishes. The samplers looked so appetizing we decided to order two. The salad platter consisted of fresh green tabouleh chunky with tomatoes, couscous studded with carrots, red and green peppers, and creamy baba ganouj. The vegetable platter really won our hearts, though, with its lovely roasted eggplant, dolmas, basmati rice pilaf, and fresh garden greens with cucumber and artichokes. (Don’t worry— there are plenty of meaty entrées too). For dessert have Turkish coffee and a small diamond of baklava. BYOB.
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CHIC FROM BARCELONA
11909 Preston Rd at Forest Ln (972-239-2442) Open Mon–Thur 11:30–9:30, Fri 11:30–11, Sat noon–11. Closed Sun. web site | map | latest review | access ++ | add to library | |
$$ |
Dallas
| Mediterranean |
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(From November 2008) We applaud the new menu additions at this cosmopolitan place, with its lovely covered patio and saffron-hued dining room. Paella lovers will rejoice to find the classic Valencian rice dish offered for the first time; it can be ordered vegetarian or with chicken or shrimp (or both). A must-do appetizer is the signature shot glass of gazpacho puréed to a fare-thee-well. The crema catalana reminded us of a light crème brûlée kissed with citrus. Bar.
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COOL CAFE
123 Auditorium Circle or via Havana Riverwalk Inn (210-224-2665) Open Mon-Wed 7 a.m.-10 p.m., Thur & Fri 7-11, Sat 9-11, Sun 9-9. web site | map | latest review | photo | access ++ | add to library | |
$$ |
San Antonio
| Mediterranean / Middle Eastern |
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(From November 2009) This gem, behind the Havana Riverwalk Inn, serves mostly Mediterranean and Middle Eastern food. A splendid “fish kebab” featured broiled cubes of salmon adroitly flavored with saffron and lemon, while a beef pot roast with tomato sauce, more nearly a stew, had vigorous, deep flavors. Among the apps, we liked the tangy tabouleh salad and mirza ghasemi, a cold Persian eggplant and tomato combo. Informal yet digni-fied, Cool Café has vast river-view windows. Bar.
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CRUSH WINE BAR AND DELI
701 S. Polk (806-418-2011) Open Mon–Thur 11–9, Fri & Sat 11–midnight. Closed Sun. map | latest review | access ++ | add to library | |
$-$$ |
Amarillo
| Mediterranean |
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(From February 2009) Housed in a newly renovated downtown building, this chic place offers empanadas and tapas in the evening and delicious salads and sandwiches during the day. We loved the crepe with roasted chicken, caramelized onions, mushrooms, and Gruyère and the smoked-salmon sandwich served on herb flatbread with cream cheese, spinach, tomato, and balsamic. Reserve the chocolate soufflé cake when you place your order. Beer & wine.
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