Lubbock

(From March 2011)

The servers here are down-home friendly and the ambience rustic. And the second you open the door and get a whiff of J&M’s smoked brisket, sausage, turkey, and ham, your mouth will commence to water. In the winter, they fire up the woodstove and serve their famous chili, and there’s plenty of other kinds of meaty goodness, like barbecue burritos and barbecue Frito pie. You’ve got your choice of the usual sides, but we’d suggest the skin-on mashed potatoes with white gravy, pinto beans (with a dried-chile kick), and crispy fried okra. Don’t forget the cobbler: a sugary crust layered with piping-hot fruit. BYOB.

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Photograph by Daniel Vaughn

(From January 2011)

The tantalizing aroma of hickory smoke led us to this barbecue shrine, where seating is limited to a few well-worn school desk chairs. The menu is limited as well: brisket sandwiches, ham sandwiches, and burgers with chips (no fries). The brisket is tender, smoky, and proud of its messy, juicy bits of fat. For the ravenous or masochistic, the Tech Cycle goes all out, with brisket, ham, and a burger patty on a toasted bun jazzed with a peppery barbecue sauce. Keep August’s Pie—a locally made chocolate or fruit fried pie—in mind for next time.

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