McAllen

(From July 2009) Magnificent chandeliers, talavera mosaics, and hanging copper pots adorn this spot, named for the rugged region northwest of Mexico City. You order at the counter, where you can choose from a variety of dishes and select from the various salsas and condiments on display. The smoked beef tacos were great, but the pork al pastor tacos were a little too sweet.

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(From December 2009) At this new south McAllen restaurant, an offshoot of the original, in Reynosa, you are greeted by the sight of a busy glass-enclosed kitchen as you make your way to a hacienda-style dining room, with stone walls and wooden beams. We started with mollejas, or grilled sweetbreads, which were crispy and tender. Next we sampled the house specialty, cabrito al pastor. A South Texas and Mexican specialty, whole young goat is roasted until tender and buttery, and it was quite possibly the best we have had on this side of the border. Our second entrée, a slightly dryish portion of cabrito rolled into enchiladas, was redeemed by a velvety mole sauce redolent of cocoa, almond, and cinnamon. Bar.

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(From October 2008) Named after its owners, this restaurant is sparsely but creatively decorated—pink and blue neon lights, plus two Texas license plates (on the way out) that spell “thank” and “you.” You’ll be grateful yourself when you order the massive chimichanga, a flour tortilla filled with meat, chile con carne, cheese, rice, beans, salad, and sour cream. The tacos de trompo—made open-faced, with corn tortillas—are also delicious, if a little salty.

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(From November 2008) Named after its owners, this restaurant is sparsely but creatively decorated—pink and blue neon lights, plus two Texas license plates (on the way out) that spell “thank” and “you.” You’ll be grateful yourself when you order the massive chimichanga, a flour tortilla filled with meat, chile con carne, cheese, rice, beans, salad, and sour cream. The tacos de trompo—made open-faced, with corn tortillas—are also delicious, if a little salty.

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(From May 2009) Stepping into this restaurant feels like diving into the ocean. Turquoise colors the furniture, the walls—even the staff’s clothing. After deliberating over the extensive menu, which has a Hispanic bent, with dishes from Peru, Mexico, and Spain, we decided to try an oyster shooter and tuna tartare served with fresh herbs and red onions on a crispy wonton. They turned out to be great choices, as were our entrées of shrimp ajillo and Peruvian seafood soup. The staff is extremely friendly. Bar.

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(From March 2009) La Mexicana Decorated with mirrors, ornate sombreros, colorful paintings, and plastic palm trees, this restaurant is old-fashioned Tex-Mex all the way, the kind of place where, regardless of your order, you can expect to be served a cup of tasty vegetable soup to start. We wiped the Veracruz plate clean, and it was by no means a small portion—two tacos al carbón, two enchiladas, rice, and beans. Be sure to avail yourself of the plentiful, hand-chopped pico de gallo. Bar.

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(From February 2009) Even though the Republic of the Rio Grande lasted only 283 days, back in 1840, the flag hangs prominently at this ranch-style restaurant. The Lone Star burger, with cheddar cheese, barbecue sauce, and crispy onion rings, is mouthwatering, and the chicken quesadillas are awesome (and more than enough for a full meal). Bar.

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(From February 2009) Surprisingly, the red and green hot sauces here are rather bland; the black bean dip, however, is excellent. After sampling several dishes, we can recommend the fish tacos with balsamic red cabbage and chipotle tartar sauce and the mole poblano de pollo. Bar.

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