Big Bend Region

(From February 2012)

There’s nothing like good, inexpensive Tex-Mex. Alice herself either cooks or tends tables, and the whole staff seems related (if not by blood, then by time spent together). The menu is nothing fancy, just good taco salads, enchiladas, and an exceptional table salsa. Just don’t expect an amuse-bouche.

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(From June 2011) Famous for its burgers, Alicia’s also does better than most with Tex-Mex. Building blocks like chiles, beans, and tomatoes get seasoned to perfection and turn the chalupas, tacos, and enchiladas into seriously good eats. Check out Jonny’s Omelet, which is actually a huge egg crepe enveloping a scrumptious pile of cheese, peppers, and tomatoes.

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(From September 2010) It may be the dog days of summer, but things still look lush at this golf resort oasis. Even the approach, under a trellised walkway, is breezy and cool, as is the spray from the splashing fountain. We opted to dine inside the glass-walled room and enjoyed a chilled Caesar salad with crisp romaine, crunchy croutons, and tender grilled chicken. Yum. Bar (opens at 4).

Friday, July 24th, 2009, 11:50 am
Trey says:
Great food. Very nice staff anxious to provide good service. We ate there once or twice a day for five days. We had almost everything on the menu and enjoyed it all. The chef was top notch. Food presentation was very good

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(From August 2011)

Tamales for breakfast? Why not; they’re made right here in the kitchen. But do not miss the heavenly chilaquiles—are we clear on that? The eggs are cooked to your specifications, and refried beans frame cut-up tortillas and a red chile sauce that is at once very hot and impossible to stop eating. For something milder, try the huevos rancheros. Lots of tables under the spreading porch roof allow breezes to cool your dripping brow. 

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(From August 2011)

Even if it wasn’t located at the only hostelry in Big Bend National Park and even if it didn’t have a spectacular mountain view, the lodge is a better-than-it-has-to-be dining destination (it’s almost 80 miles south of Marathon). Burgers and chops are given careful consideration, the Mexican menu is sure to please, and the salad bar and fresh soups always delight. Recently, we fell hard for the potato skins, cheesy and toasted to perfection. Beer & wine. 

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(From June 2011) Power menu meets power diners in an über-Marfa-cool space. Recent temptations included our favorite, the grilled rack of lamb, served on giant white beans with a leek-and-potato terrine, delectable in both flavor and presentation. This time we picked a bold fettuccine with asparagus, cannellini beans, and spicy chile flakes. With creamy, lemony mashers and braised brussels sprouts, the hickory-grilled swordfish proved as satisfying but without the fireworks. Cheers for the clever appetizer of peppery shrimp, bacon, grits, and a poached egg and for the dessert of bread pudding splashed with rum—spoons for all! Beer & wine.

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(From May 2011) This veteran cafe east of Sleeping Lion Mountain is a Tex-Mex stalwart, even as nearby restaurants defect to trendier New Mexico–style cuisine. It has nothing fancy, just well-executed enchiladas, tacos, and a few non-Mex offerings like catfish and burgers. The rellenos and the chicken fajitas remain our favorites, but we like the chalupas for a lighter meal. Especially flavorful salsa, guacamole, and chile con queso play supporting roles. Half the town shows up exactly at noon for the lunch buffet, so be warned.

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(From January 2012)

Think cherry Cokes, not  cough drops. The french fries are hand-cut and crunchy and the biscuits light and plentiful, but we are hooked on the omelets, their airy goodness enveloping sautéed vegetables and melted cheese. Be sure to climb the stairs for an engrossing display of photos and artifacts from the wildfire that consumed much of the town this summer.

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(From June 2011) As with the town itself, change comes slowly to this venerable spot. The decor is still cheerless, the chairs straight-backed, and the sound track filled with hokey Texas standards. As for the food, it was hit or miss on our last visit, with meat loaf billed as “spicy” actually flavorless and mushy and wedges of pie served partially frozen. But there were a few bright spots. The burgundy-marinated pot roast was properly cooked and hearty, and the mashed potatoes alongside came with plenty of good gravy. The star of the evening? Just-baked buttermilk biscuits. Private club, membership $3.

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(From February 2011) Out West lives a lady named India / Whose cooking you want to get inta ya / Her burgers are larrapin’ / Her cakes are for sharin’ in / Makes you wish that somehow you was kin to ’er. / Her place is so small, just a hole in the wall / That some tables have wandered outside. / With a smile and aplomb / She feeds all who come / And sends them away with “Bye, y’all.”

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