Restaurant Reviews

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1) 100% TAQUITO [City: Houston, Cuisine: Mexican]
This review from July 2008. There’s nothing quite like the authentic food and icy cervezas served from the trailers and stalls that line the streets of Mexico City, but we played a good game of pretend at this Southwest Freeway storefront. Its taco-stand facade set the mood for our small flour-tortilla tacos—one each of fajita, spicy chipotle brisket, and chicken mole. The chipotle mix (tinga) also starred in miniature masa “pies” (sopes), along with black beans, onions, and cheese. Tres leches cake rounded out a satisfying, if imaginary, trip south. Beer & margaritas. 3245 Southwest Fwy (U.S. 59) (713-665-2900). Open Sun-Thur 11-10. Fri & Sat 11-11. $-$$ [web site] [map] +

2) 107 CAFE [City: Edinburg, Cuisine: Mexican]
This review from April 2008. Usually packed for breakfast and lunch, this cafeteria-style restaurant located near the University of Texas–Pan American campus is the go-to place for good, inexpensive Mexican food. The staff is extremely friendly, and the tacos and spicy salsa are unmatched. 4129 W. University Dr (956-380-1107). Open Sun–Tue 7 a.m.–3 p.m., Wed–Sat 7–7. $ [map] +

3) 13 CELSIUS [City: Houston, Cuisine: New American]
This review from July 2007. A cool wine bar with a good deli case, Celsius is packing in the young Midtown crowd. We sipped a fine Joseph Swan 2004 Chardonnay with our cheese and meat plates and took in the charmingly shabby but hip interior. Our sampling of little bites of sottocenere (a mellow cow’s milk cheese with flakes of truffle), Texas gold cheddar, and wine-bathed ubriacone proved well matched with paper-thin slices of speck, mortadella, and salame. All in all, a very satisfying light meal. Beer & wine. 3000 Caroline (713-529-8466). Open Sun-–Fri 4–midnight, Sat 4–1 a.m. $$ [web site] [map] +

4) 1308 CANTINA [City: Houston, Cuisine: Mexican]
This review from April 2008. In a city flooded with great Mexican food, the Laurenzo empire thrives. Note its latest addition in Montrose, where rustic Spanish-style interiors create an inviting space for casual meals and happy hours. Served with warm tortillas and pico, the carnitas, slow-roasted morsels of pork, were fork-tender and full of flavor. Muy delicioso too was the shrimp-and-cheese-stuffed fried avocado. As usual, the margaritas are dangerously good. Bar. 1308 Montrose Blvd (713-807-8996). Open Tue–Thur 11–2:30 & 5–10, Fri 11–2:30 & 5–11, Sat 5–11, Sun 11–3 (brunch) & 5–9:30. Closed Mon. $$-$$$ [web site] [map] +

5) 17 [City: Houston, Cuisine: American]
This review from August 2008. Quiet, refined, and expensive, 17 is a big-night-out destination. Expect a leisurely and expert meal. Our luxurious dinner included everything from an endive salad (with blue cheese, matchsticks of apple, and toasted walnuts) and a rich potato leek soup to a huge portion of perfect venison (with butternut squash and brussels sprouts) and a filet of marinated black cod (in a broth spiked with bok choy and lotus root). Try a cheese plate for dessert. Bar. Alden Hotel, 1117 Prairie (832-200-8888). Breakfast 7 days 6:30–10:30. Lunch Mon–Sat 11–2:30. Dinner Sun–Thur 5:30–10, Fri & Sat 5:30–11. Brunch Sun 11–2:30. Reservations recommended. $$–$$$$ [web site] [map] +

6) 1879 CHISHOLM GRILL [City: Waxahachie, Cuisine: American and Home Cooking]
This review from July 2008. If you’re looking for comfort food made from scratch, look no further than this grand old building on the square in downtown Waxahachie. An ambitious menu boasts all manner of salads, pastas, seafood, and steaks; we’re partial to the tasty coconut shrimp with mango-raspberry sauce and the tender pepper-crusted sirloin with sides of crunchy onion rings and fresh green beans. Chisholm also serves a hearty breakfast on the weekends (steak and eggs, omelets, pancakes). Bread, pies, and cakes are made daily in the restaurant’s bakery. 111 S. College (972-937-7261). Open Tue–Thur 11–9, Fri 11–10, Sat 8–10, Sun 8–4. Closed Mon. $$ [web site] [map]

7) 20NINE [City: San Antonio, Cuisine: Wine Bar]
This review from June 2007. Here, wine flights allow for a meal-cum-wine-tasting. The short menu runs to fish and beef, but our starters and dessert outshone the entrées. A prosciutto-wrapped green chile stuffed with crabmeat with a lime butter sauce proved the top appetizer, while a truly fine Sachertorte finished the meal with an exclamation point. The mood is quietly classy but not ostentatious. Beer & wine. Quarry Market, 255 E. Basse Rd (210-798-9463). Open Mon–Thur 4–11, Fri & Sat 4–midnight, Sun 10–3. $$$ [web site] [map] +

8) 29 DEGREE TAVERN [City: Fort Worth, Cuisine: American]
This review from August 2007. The ambience is geared for the young and the restless, but the suds and grub will hit the spot no matter what your age. A chilled draft beer tag-teamed well with a slab of grilled meat loaf served over Yukon Gold mashed potatoes and topped with fried onion slivers. The massive, perfectly grilled hamburger made an equally good meal. Bar. 4701 West Freeway (I-30 at Hulen) (817-735-8393). Open Mon–Fri 11–midnight, Sat 10–midnight, Sun 10–11. $ [web site] [map] +

9) 2900 [City: Dallas, Cuisine: Eclectic and New American]
This review from October 2007. Quintessentially French decor with tilted mirrors makes this small square room intimate despite its slightly loud acoustics. A salad of baby spinach, lemon Stilton (a lovely and unexpected flavor), walnuts, and port-wine vinaigrette made for a grand beginning. The delectable almond-and-spring-pea risotto matched beautifully with seared grouper and a whole-grain-mustard cream sauce. Bar. 2900 Thomas Ave at Allen St (214-303-0400). Open Tue—Thur 5:30—10, Fri & Sat 5:30—11. Closed Sun & Mon. $$—$$$ [web site] [map] +

10) 2900 [City: El Paso, Cuisine: Eclectic and New American]
This review from August 2008. This new dining spot’s industrial deco vibe is reminiscent of the cool eateries found in New York’s Meatpacking District. A wall of wine separates the dining room from the super bar, which is usually teeming with young professionals. Within the dining area is a soothing water wall and an open kitchen. Chef Bobby Griffing’s menu changes frequently, but we loved the crispy, lobster-stuffed monkfish and the country-fried steak served with a quail egg. Bar. 2900 N. Mesa (915-544-1400). Dinner Tue–Thur 5–10, Fri & Sat 5–11. Closed Sun & Mon. $$$ [web site] [map] +

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