(From May 2011) The gnocchi come from Rome and the mozz from New York: These people are serious about their Italian heri-tage. “Mouthwatering” is the only word for the salad of tomatoes topped with creamy burrata and drizzled with pesto, aged balsamic, and extra-virgin olive oil. Fork-tender veal piccata, nicely sauced with capers, lemon but-ter, and white wine, made us sigh with satisfaction. Only the too-dense banana bread pudding disappointed (wait—how is that Italian?). Family photos on the walls and red-and-white cloths on the tables set a homey mood; there is a pleasant small patio too.

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