(From December 2010)

Looking like a small, colorful Tower of Pisa were stacked rounds of buffalo mozzarella brushed with pesto, slices of yellow and red heirloom tomatoes, and a sprinkling of tiny sourdough croutons and water-cress. A pyramid of truffle whipped potatoes and baby vegetables came parked beside a hefty hunk of wood-roasted beef tenderloin napped with a velvety red-wine butter. If you’ve never had sage ice cream—who has?—it’s a treat, especially paired with a blackberry crisp, as it is here. Note the sizzling bar scene, where everyone seems to be celebrating some sort of corporate coup. Bar.

Leave a Review

(From August 2011)

Perched above the river, a bit away from the madding throng, Acenar is the most stylish culinary and architectural adventure of local restaurateur Lisa Wong (of Rosario’s and China Latina). Here you’ll find bold colors, cutting-edge design, a busy bar, good service, and, best of all, contemporary Mexican food. The guacamole is a work of art; the chips are served in those trendy cones; the margs are made with fresh-squeezed juices. Tender corn crepes, from huitlacoche to pato (duck), are among the unusual options, along with tender cabrito and Mexican-style grilled redfish. It’s far from your ordinary taco joint. Bar.

Leave a Review

(From November 2011)

These cozy confines just off Voss seem just the setting for congenial Arturo Boada’s multicultural menu. Guests and staff alike appear in high spirits, no doubt inspired by dishes like Camarones Henesy en Hamaca (large shrimp piled atop an arresting blend of hearts of palm, tomatoes, capers, and plantains in a soy-ginger broth); rich rigatoni with chicken, peas, and mushrooms; and a thin-crusted carnitas pizza with red onions and cilantro. Beer & wine.. 

Leave a Review

(From March 2011)

This place, with its clean lines, stylized art, and accomodating servers, is always a pleasure. So too was our meal of summer rolls with peanut sauce, followed by crispy red snapper topped with basil sauce, baby corn, and slivers of red bell pepper; an orb of jasmine rice flecked with black sesame seeds came alongside. Green tea ice cream with sticky rice and a splash of coconut coulis was a refreshing dessert; coming in second was a classic cheesecake with mango sauce and fresh raspberries. Bar.

Leave a Review

(From June 2012)

Is there a hint of executive chef Bruce Auden’s English birthright here amid the international comfort food? Big leather chairs in the bar, shelves of pottery, baskets and wine against the windows, batter-fried chicken, Auden’s famous oysters, and sticky toffee pudding seem to suggest it’s so. At lunch, a panko-crusted flattened chicken breast topped with seasonal greens and a truffle oil dressing hit the comfort target dead-on. At night, oven-roasted chicken with saffron Israeli couscous was just the thing for sharing across the table, along with the Bluebonnet Salad, with local greens, apples, avocado, and goat cheese. Beer & wine.

Leave a Review

(From May 2012)

Dining at Bruce Auden’s outpost on the river is kind of like dining in a luxury ocean liner: the narrow balcony, the floaty fabrics, the glimmer and glint, the excellent service. But the food, we know, is far better than most seafaring kitchens can manage, and the local-food ethic is apparent in such dishes as warm spinach salad topped with quail and tender yet densely flavored Texas axis venison. Then there are the imaginative vegetarian specials, this time, a freshly made pasta with Rebecca Creek goat cheese, an English pea sauce, and tiny grilled yellow tomatoes. Bar.

Tuesday, March 1st, 2011, 1:03 pm
Jenny says:
Biga on the Banks showcases chef Bruce Auden’s signature New American cuisine. Biga’s main dining room welcomes the discerning traveler, convention-goer and downtown entertainment crowd in a relaxed upscale ambience. Floor to ceiling glass windows offer gorgeous views of the River, upstream from the hard-partying noise of the busier blocks. Menu standouts include Close-to-Bouillabaisse, fish and shellfish in tomato saffron broth; and the Eleven Spiced Axis Venison with Grilled Quail, crowned with juniper sauce. Perennial favorites Radiccio & Bibb Game Packets and Salmon Nachos get your party started, and be sure to conclude your meal with the eponymous Sticky Toffee Pudding, a little piece of English heaven.

Leave a Review

(From March 2012)

Basically the same space, only with a scarlet-and-gold color palette and fewer tables, the former home of York Street exudes a pleasant informality. We began with a simple salad of roasted red beets dressed with olive oil and paired with a small heap of greens. Arriving in a traditional Moroccan tagine were tender bits of chicken, yellow rice, dried fruits, almonds, carrots, green beans, and spices. Desserts come in small portions, but they’re certainly enough for a sweet ending; we enjoyed the slender slice of lemon tart. Interesting wine list. Beer & wine.

Leave a Review

(From March 2012)

To evoke the same kind of lustful moan usually reserved for Hollywood heartthrobs, you need only say four words to a B–CS resident: Café Eccell’s strawberry tart. For more than two decades, this work of art—apricot-glazed strawberries resting on rich cream and Belgian chocolate in a crunchy almond lace cookie shell—has been Eccell’s signature dessert. But the cozy restaurant’s staying power can also be attributed to its fabulous wood-fired pizzas, vast selection of fresh fish, and eclectic takes on sandwiches, steaks, and pasta. We recently tried the herbed chicken club (a juicy breast piled high with smoked bacon, avocado, and provolone) paired with a bowl of creamy corn chowder. We finished, of course, with a strawberry tart. Bar.

Leave a Review

(From March 2011) This comfy little cafe with its chalkboard menu may seem a bit old-fashioned. But we have no complaints when retro food tastes so good. A lively salad with bits of goat cheese, ham, and hazelnuts was large enough to share, leaving us room for rack of lamb in a pistachio-fig sauce with mashed potatoes and haricots verts and a pile of plump mussels in a creamy, winy broth served with crisp pommes frites. Excellent French wines, reasonably priced. Beer & wine.

Leave a Review

(From December 2010) Chef Henry Hamor is indeed “redefining dining,” and delighting his patrons to boot, at this Harlingen fusion eatery, where a meal may take you to France and Italy, Thailand and the Philippines, all in one night. We started with the Calesa salad (spinach, crispy bacon, red onion, tomato, and Asiago cheese), then moved on to a creamy butternut squash soup dotted with bits of tender crab. Said crustacean also made an appearance in our favorite dish of the evening: a slightly spicy, lightly breaded crab cake perched on a bed of diced pineapple and drizzled with cilantro mayonnaise. Beer & wine.

Leave a Review