Houston

(From January 2011)

Landmark Hospitality Group’s takeover of the restaurant in the Galleria Saks store included a welcome redo, and the resulting white-to-beige space, featuring a lighted rose sculpture on one wall, should suit savvy shoppers who crave a break from the chase. For lunch we chose the special, halibut with crab and saffron risotto, along with a salad of greens and cantaloupe, but we found the chicken and wild mushroom crepes in basil-chardonnay sauce even more special. This quiet haven beats nearby fast-food joints, and it’s only a few dollars more. Bar.

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(From April 2012)

Fortunate to live where some winter days invite alfresco dining, we recently brunched in Sunday sunshine at this longtime favorite, kept up-to-date with fresh touches to its always-tasty standards. Example: a platter of deeply roasted vegetables (eggplant, fennel, peppers, onion, and squash) served on a bed of saffron-scented grains. Short ribs and butternut squash hash, topped with poached eggs, made a perfect breakfast skillet, but we wished for more lemon-butter sauce on our otherwise fine shrimp and cheese grits. Bar.

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(From March 2012)

Along with its cool seventies decor, Benjy’s three-course Sunday supper ($19!) feels like the good old days: simple, farm-fresh tomatoes with basil and balsamic vinaigrette; swoon-worthy tender beef tips in a wine reduction with sautéed onions and mushrooms atop wilted spinach; warm chocolate cake with Mexican vanilla ice cream. You’ll be equally delighted with entrées like pan-seared scallops atop glass noodles or spicy beef udon with baby bok choy. Bar.

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(From May 2012)

Lots of things work at this Heights restaurant and publike bar: warm wood and brick accents, flattering lighting, a comfortable atmosphere, and, most important, imaginative food that tastes great. Case in point: slow-cooked deboned beef short ribs, fetchingly arranged on braised kale and rich mushroom risotto. Equally delicious: seared diver scallops and butternut squash ravioli with crispy prosciutto and plate-lickin’-good brown butter sauce. We were also impressed with our capable server, whose wine suggestions proved spot-on. Bar.

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(From March 2011) Attached to its own upscale grocery, the bistro gets fresh fare right on site and prepares it well. Add a sleek, wood-accented setting, good service, and convenient hours (especially for the nearby concert venue), and it’s no surprise that the crowds keep coming. One of us ate lightly with a luscious tarte flambée (think smoked bacon and crème fraiche) and a crab cake with cayenne rémoulade, while the other went for an oak-grilled 12-ounce strip with a green-peppercorn rub and sides of frites and asparagus. Bar

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(From March 2012)

A recent visit to chef-owner Mark Cox's intimate restaurant in a lofty converted 1920's church reminded us how romantic it is. We were equally charmed with a Southern-inspired roasted chicken and house-made chicken sausage over sweet corn-studded grits and spicy ratatouille relish, as well as a sophisticated dish of seared sesame-crusted ahi medallions served with a timbale of toothy edamame risotto and sauteed Asian vegetables. Polished, helpful service took the sting out of the pricey wine list. Bar.

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Photograph by Donna Smith

(From August 2011)

Just a little picket fence separates this down-home cafe’s picnic grounds from Main Street and the constant stream of Metro trains—only in Houston. Families dominate the outside tables; grown-ups keep cool inside. Our generous hand-cut chicken-fried steak came with fine sausage gravy and real mashed potatoes; the Daughter-in-Law Burger was an excellent veggie sandwich served with crisp onion rings. The rum-and-grenadine-laden Sucker Punch was so sweet we decided we’d go with beer next time. Bar.

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(From June 2012)

This chic space attracts an equally stylish crowd that comes for fine service, generally successful fare, and to see and be seen. Our group fought over terrific nachos, the sturdy chips paved with refrieds, oniony steak, and lovely blobs of guacamole. Roasted cinnamon-laced pheasant proved pleasant, with its caramelized onions and chunky mushrooms, but a filet of snapper disappointed—fresh enough, but with a scant, bland ginger cream sauce. Its unexpected sidekick of Asian-style braised bok choy, however, was
tender and tasty. Warm chocolate cake left a sweet impression. Bar.

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(From March 2012)

Handsome balances quirky at Ouisie’s new spot, what with crystal chandeliers and chairs hanging from the ceiling against a sleek black, white, and red backdrop. Our meal, too, was a mixed bag: both a flavorless seafood paella and a wild mushroom pasta were too dry, and a fried-green-tomato caprese salad was overwhelmed by olives. But inspiring strong desires to return were a beef shank tagine with caramelized prunes and apricots, cornmeal-battered Gulf oysters, and a trio of butter lettuce cups (Tres Wedgies!): one with a blue cheese dressing and bacon, one with spicy shallot vinaigrette and avocado, and one with ranch dressing and pico. Bar.

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(From April 2012)

We were pleased as punch that this chic, well-designed café was relaxing and less crowded (and with better parking) than the mother ship, Tiny Boxwoods. Beautiful oversized cinnamon rolls dripping in frosting beckoned from the pastry case, but we stuck to the special Sunday brunch chalkboard entrees, which were fine indeed. Large blueberry pancakes, popping with fresh fruit and set off by not-too-sweet maple syrup, vied for best dish with tummy-warming shrimp and grits with a piquant dark roux. Beer & Wine.

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