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FINO
2905 San Gabriel, second level
(512-474-2905)
Open Mon–Thur 11–10, Fri 11–11, Sat 5–11. Brunch Sun 11-3.
web site | map | reserve through OpenTable | latest review | photo | access ++ |  add to library |
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Mediterranean |
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(From November 2011) Languid evenings lounging on the patio warrant a round of small plates: Fattoush, a meld of cucumber, tomato, toasted pita crumbs, and copious feta crumbles, is the last taste of summer; fried anchovy-stuffed olives powdered in sharp paprika whet the appetite; grilled baby octopus tastes like a Mediterranean vacation. All pair with the ingredient-intense cocktails that seem de rigueur nowadays. We learned all about genever and hope that bacon bourbon is just a phase for mixologist Josh Loving. Bar. |
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OLIVIA
2043 S. Lamar
(512-804-2700)
Lunch Fri & Sat 11–2. Dinner Mon–Thur 5:30–10, Fri & Sat 5:30–11, Sun 5:30–10. Brunch Sun 10:30–2:30.
web site | map | latest review | photo | access ++ | add to library |
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(From January 2011) The Olivia salad—mixed greens tossed with a smoked-tomato vinaigrette—started us off in the right direction. We took in the kitchen garden on the grounds and the twinkling stars overhead while we sipped sparkling rosé and waited for our entrées. The scallops—pan-seared with crème fraîche, arugula, and romesco—proved delightful until we hit a gritty spot. We found no fault, however, with the delicious Por-tuguese Stew. The thoughtful melding of flavors—lamb chorizo, shrimp, amberjack, mussels, and chickpeas in a spicy saffron broth—proved that chef-owner James Holmes still has it going on at this stylish spot. Bar. |
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SOLEIL
6550 Comanche Trail
(512-266-0600)
Open Sun–Thur 11:30–10, Fri & Sat 11:30–11.
web site | map | latest review | photo | access ++ | add to library |
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Mediterranean |
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(From March 2011) Lake Travis is hardly a destination for fancy eats. But famed Houston chef Robert Del Grande and local chef George Thomas (formerly of Kenichi) are challenging that notion. Their collaboration on Soleil is the best thing to happen so far at the ongoing redevelopment of the Oasis into a retail and dining extravaganza. Del Grande is not actually cooking, of course (he just consulted), but Thomas is doing a good to excellent job with Mediterranean-oriented dishes like seared ahi tuna on Tuscan beans: two giant ruby-red hunks on a bed of gloriously mushy cannellini beans accented with Sicilian pesto (which means with added sun-dried tomato and anchovy). Although much of the rather pricey menu is fish-oriented, an excellent New York steak, topped with Gorgonzola dolce and a fabulous fig steak sauce, will make meat eaters very happy. Desserts are a work in progress (the best of a boring lot was a fluffy tiramisu with negligible espresso flavor), but the rustic-sleek room is a nice distraction, with subtle aqua wave motifs and quirky mounted turquoise deer heads—faux, we hasten to add. Bar. |
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