Dallas

(From July 2011)

As far as we’re concerned, “Café” could be left out of the name, because the food here is mainly deli. Never would we have guessed that stuffed cabbage could be such a delight: The tender leaves were crammed with beef and rice and served in a tomato broth studded with raisins, onions, and celery. The beef stroganoff was surprisingly bland, but we did like the flavorful side of carrot and zucchini slivers. The cheesecake seems to be the dessert of choice, but chocolate cannoli come in a close second. 

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(From October 2010) Lacking the euros to travel to Italy, we can still savor Italian delights by visiting this small grocery store with its myriad imported treasures. We sat down to enjoy a prosciutto panino with shreds of basil and thick slabs of mozzarella; it was easily shared by two. Adding to that a behemoth portion of muffuletta salad, a small bottle of San Pellegrino sparkling Chinotto (a bitter citrus fruit drink similar to Campari in taste), and a small round of chocolate cake with dense ganache icing, we had ourselves quite a feast. If so inclined, an Italian espresso costing only $1 might be the best ending of all. Beer & wine.

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(From January 2012)

If you're a fan of Neapolitan-style pizza, this no-frills San Antonio import should be your next stop. We made a fine Italian lunch out of spiedini of warm mozzerella wrapped in prosciutto di Parma and a pizza swathed with fontina cheese, oak-roasted mushrooms, and carmelized onion. The thereal polenta cake was delectable, as were the Nutella panini, and the silky panna cotta ringed with balsamic sauce and macerated berries was dessert indulgence to the hilt. Bar.

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(From June 2011) An Insalata Fantasia (red leaf lettuce, hearts of palm, artichokes, prosciutto, wal-nuts, and Gruyère) was a hefty appetizer, as you might well guess. But we fearlessly forged ahead with the risotto funghi, which we found lacking in depth, unfortunately (perhaps because the rice was cooked with vegetable broth instead of wine). But the chef’s heart is certainly in the right spot when it comes to pasta, with a firm resolve to serve no noodle before its time; a fif-teen-minute wait resulted in perfectly cooked penne. BYOB.

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(From April 2011) We don’t know where those utterly fresh tomatoes for the to-mato-basil soup came from, but with the first steaming spoonful we were taken back to summer. And who would think that a salad (al-beit slightly overdressed with a citrusy vinaigrette) of assorted greens shot through with fennel, grapes, and green apple would pull together so well. As for entrées, we heartily recommend the smoked-chicken-and-red-pepper ravioli with toasted pine nuts and pesto cream sauce. Alas, no desserts are offered at lunch, but we certainly didn’t leave hungry. BYOB.

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(From October 2011)

A nautical theme, plenty of organic choices, and a pleasant outdoor patio make this a favorite destination. As we prefer a Neapolitan-style crust on our pizzas (pies here, though mighty good, are of the thicker variety), we chose the grilled sea bass with a side of steamed spinach, cipollini, and a squeeze of lemon—utterly light and yet perfectly filling for a warm summer evening. Bar.

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(From January 2012)

Gone is the fast-food section of this NorthPark restaurant, leaving just the quiet, full-service room overlooking the charming interior courtyard of the mall. Wild mushroom pizza with thyme, scattered bits of pancetta, truffle oil (a bit too heavy), and fontina cheese was very Neapolitan with its thin, crispy crust, and there was surely a bit of Italian genius in the house-made gelato; three flavors per serving allow for all partakers to be satisfied. Thank goodness the beautiful orange Murano chandeliers are still gracing the place. When weather permits, the patio is lovely.

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(From July 2011)

We don’t recall being so satisfied with a dinner in a long time. Chef David Uygur and his lovely wife, Jennifer, have transformed this small, casual spot into a must-visit place for lovers of authentic Italian food (make a reservation a month ahead). Arancine, little balls of fried risotto stuffed with Taleggio cheese, were made all the more delightful with a silky lemon aioli. And we tasted fava beans that were Hannibal Lecter–worthy: tender green gems encased in agnolotti pasta sprinkled with chives. We would have loved to try all four desserts but settled on superb lemon and pistachio cannoli. Beer & wine 

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(From January 2011) A first-course insalate combined baby spinach with shavings of pear, fennel, and Parmesan; a lemon-and-white-truffle vinaigrette was subtle but perky. Neatly folded tortelloni stuffed with creamy fontina cheese and strewn confetti-style with bits of crab, mushroom, and asparagus made a delightful lunch; we especially enjoyed the sauce of white wine, butter, and truffles. Classic tiramisu, moist and light, and dark-and-white-chocolate cake with hazelnut gelato were fine finishes. Appropriately, the wine list leans toward interesting Italians. Bar.

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(From January 2012)

If you're thinking, "What the heck is speck?" please note that it's a juniper-flavored, cold-smoked ham and that it makes a fine addition to Nonna's wild arugula salad with goat cheese and peaches. Malloreddus (a cavatelli-like pasta infused with saffron) with zesty lamb sausage and crushed tomato ragu are toothsome little pasta pillows, and for dessert, we highlt recommend the praline nougatine semifreddo with acacia honey and pistachios.

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