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LA FAMILIA
841 Foch (817-870-2002)
Open Mon–Thur 11–9, Fri & Sat 11–10. Closed Sun.
web site | map | latest review | access ++ |  add to library | |
$ |
Mexican |
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(From December 2009) After the compulsory handshake from the owner, we joined the throng waiting for a table. Soon enough we were sipping margaritas and munching tostadas with fiery salsa. A complimentary bowl of beans tided us over during the short wait for our Tex-Mex plate—three (beef, chicken, or cheese) enchiladas anointed with chili con carne and melted cheddar. The kitchen now offers fish tacos (two flour tortillas stuffed with fried perch and served with pico de gallo, slaw, and guacamole), but the wise stick with the old standbys. Bar. |
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PACO & JOHN MEXICAN DINER
1116 8th Ave (817-810-0032)
Open Mon–Fri 7:30–10:30 & 11–2:30. Brunch Sat 10–2. Closed Sun.
web site | map | latest review | access ++ | add to library | |
$ |
Mexican |
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(From August 2009) Bernard Tronche, owner of the esteemed French restaurant Saint-Emilion, thought he’d try something a little different in his spare time. So he and faithful employee Francisco Islas remodeled an old service station and developed a menu featuring, among other things, tacos, tortas, cochinita pibil, and sautéed calf’s liver. Almost overnight a crush of hospital district workers and Southsiders found their way to the duo’s inexpensive, fresh, and beautifully presented chow. Our enchiladas—they change every day—were two tortillas flipped over sautéed spinach and melted cheese accompanied by refried black beans and rice. |
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ESPERANZA’S
1601 Park Place (817-923-1961)
Open Tue–Fri 7–2:30 & 5–9, Sat 7–9, Sun 7–5. Closed Mon.
map | latest review | photo | access ++ | add to library | |
$$ |
Bakery /
Mexican |
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(From August 2008) The Joe T. Garcia clan has descended on Park Place with a new installation of Esperanza’s, its much-loved breakfast and lunch spot. Lots of windows let the light shine into this inviting space, where early diners order up plates of migas and huevos rancheros and the midday crowd feasts on tacos and enchiladas (an expanded menu is in the works, as are dinner hours). Bar. |
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YUCATAN TACO STAND
909 W. Magnolia Ave (817-924-8646)
Open Mon–Wed 11–10, Thur–Sat 11–midnight. Closed Sun.
web site | map | latest review | photo | access ++ | add to library | |
$$ |
Southwestern /
Mexican |
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(From December 2009) Step up to the busy counter to place your order, then take a seat. Your gloriously undiluted margarita will be brought to your table, and trust us, just one will do. Not so for the tacos. Once you experience one of the glorious combinations, you will be ready for more, so go ahead and order several. The warm corn tortillas come wrapped around all manner of fillings (ground sirloin, tequila-lime chicken, cabrito) and topped with the likes of shredded cabbage, queso fresco, roasted garlic sauce, and so on. Bar. |
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GRADY’S
2443 Forest Park Blvd. (817-922-9980)
Dinner Tue-Thur 5:30-10, Fri & Sat 5:30-11. Closed Sun & Mon.
map | latest review | photo | access ++ | add to library | |
$$-$$$ |
Mexican /
Steaks |
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(From May 2009) Four months ago, Fort Worth chef Grady Spears (formerly of the Chisholm Club and Lambert’s) hung out his shingle, offering equal parts steakhouse fare, Mexican food, and home cooking. An early visit led off with a crispy taco appetizer featuring chile-seasoned shredded quail with a side relish of roasted corn and red bell pepper. It was great, in a glorified-bar-food way. Surprisingly refined, though, was a cream of roasted carrot soup with just a bit of heat. Main courses varied from a semi-tough beef tenderloin with green-chile mac and cheese (in need of salt) to a huge, fantastically tender serving of pork shank on maple syrup–tinged mashed sweet potatoes. The setting is plain but pleasant, and the food definitely has promise. We’ll be back. Bar. |
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610 GRILLE
Ashton Hotel, 610 Main (817-332-0100)
Open Sun-Thur 6:30 a.m.-9 p.m., Fri & Sat 6:30-10.
map | latest review | photo | access ++ | add to library | |
$$$ |
American /
Mexican |
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(From April 2009) A recent renovation has resulted in a quieter and warmer dining space off the lobby of the Ashton Hotel, and chef Ismael Rojas has designed the menu with Southwestern palates in mind. The Tlalpan Salad (named for a district in Mexico City) featured assorted greens, toasted pistachios, and sliced cucumber tossed in a chipotle vinaigrette, while the grilled fourteen-ounce ribeye came with whipped Yukon potatoes, baby carrots, a poblano with corn sauce, and a topping of fried onions. The experienced and knowledgeable servers are a real asset. Bar. |
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LANNY’S ALTA COCINA MEXICANA
3405 W. 7th (817-850-9996)
Lunch Tue–Fri 11:30–2. Dinner Tue–Thur 5:30–10, Fri & Sat 5:30–10:30. Closed Sun & Mon.
web site | map | reserve a table | latest review | photo | access ++ | add to library | |
$$$ |
French /
Mexican |
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(From November 2008) While we studied the enticing lunch menu, warm, house-made bread tweaked our appetite. A salad with blue cheese and candied pecans was as refreshing as it was beautiful, and our salmon filet came creatively draped over spinach, chickpeas, oven-dried tomatoes, and white asparagus. A friend pronounced himself well pleased with a garlicky mound of angel hair pasta, shrimp, and (just slightly over-cooked) chorizo. Superb service and stylish decor enhance the experience. Bar. |
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