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12 GAGE

Gage Hotel, 102 U.S. 90W
(432-386-4205)
Dinner Sun–Thur 6–9, Fri & Sat 6–10.
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$$$

American

(From May 2012)

One is tempted to sigh, “At last.” This Western-themed hotel restaurant has finally rounded up some really high-class grub. Ambitious starters deliver, from steak tartare to chorizo-spiked shrimp grits. We were particularly taken by a pork chop cut a little more than an inch thick, accompanied by an even tastier sauté of fingerling potatoes with pancetta and baby spinach. The kitchen even nailed the fig compote. A dessert of chile-flavored chocolate mousse on a layer of chocolate torte wasn’t big enough to share—not that we would have. Bar.

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