Houston

(From June 2011)

Burger lovers here make tracks for gourmet creations featuring pa-paya, beets, fried duck eggs—even a Shipley doughnut. We went mainstream with our burgers, choosing a bacon-guacamole-cheddar-and-arugula and a mushroom-Swiss-and-dijonnaise, both so juicy the yummy buns got pretty soggy. Crispy fries sprinkled with coarse salt were exceptional, and our teen diner went berserk for the old-school soda fountain with Dublin Dr Pepper and NuGrape. But what’s with the Soup Nazi guy at the front? Seriously. BYOB.

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(From October 2010) Don’t judge a cafe by its cover. Situated across from Robertson Stadium, this ho-hum-looking spot cooks up terrific Middle Eastern food. Kibbeh (seasoned ground-meat, made into pies), grape leaves with a creamy rice-and-onion stuffing, and Greek salad were all generously served and as fine as we’ve had anywhere. The grilled chicken kebab, tender and juicy, and the substantial lamb and beef gyro were also impressively good eats, and cheap to boot. This is a great addition to the neighborhood.

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(From June 2011) Chef-owner Scott Tycer has converted Textile into a nifty neighborhood breakfast and lunch hangout. We lingered in the sunny, spare room over two bountiful salads: spinach with avo-cado, bacon, and egg in a creamy balsamic, and the Nice and Nice, with mixed greens, olives, and goat cheese with sun-dried-tomato vinaigrette. Signature sandwiches, such as the luscious Cold Fish (smoked salmon, capers, arugula, and a ricotta spread) come on gorgeous baked-on-site bread. The petite patio out front is a prime perch. BYOB.

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(From March 2011) This self-proclaimed “fancy icehouse,” run by the Zimmerman clan of La Colombe d’Or, is handsome and cozy, with walls papered in French posters and doors opening up to patio seating (how that translates to an “icehouse” is beyond us, but c’est la vie). We grazed on ceviche and warm Tabasco-spicy Louisiana oysters grilled on the half shell. The only downer was a chicken and sausage gumbo, with an oil slick marring the otherwise perfectly spiced brew. We also tried one of the “rich boy’s” sandwiches, whose high-toned ingredients (such as duck confit and merguez) distinguished them from the “poor boy’s” sandwiches (crawfish tails and, no joke, “boring chicken”). We chose the Casablanca and were rewarded with tender, slow-roasted lamb with arugula and spunky harissa aioli. Bar.

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(From March 2011) Enter one door: quaint patisserie and cafe. Enter the other: handsome French bistro. In fine weather, the sweeping bar opens to the side terrace for a truly not-in-Houston feel. We lunched on stone-oven flatbread pizza, well paired with a creamy roasted pepper and tomato soup. A niçoise salad was impressively upscale with seared ahi tuna, traditional haricots verts, and a quail egg. Profiteroles made a decadent end. A dinner visit was surprisingly ordinary, though, with a dry Mediterranean chicken breast and a serving of garlicky, buttery shrimp that, while lovely, tasted less than pristine. A generous steak frites was the evening’s best bargain, at $23. (Here’s a tip on finding the place—it’s actually on Town and Country Blvd, between Queensbury and CityCentre Way.) Bar.

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Photograph by Daniel Vaughn

(From February 2012)

It’s dusk. Picture ice-cold longnecks, picnic tables, Marty Robbins on the sound system, and a plateful of Texas barbecue. ’Nuff said. There’s plenty of great ’cue in this town, but folks still line up for Goode’s mesquite-smoked brisket, ribs, and sausage. We’re partial to the succulent smoked duck and the tender, thin-sliced spicy pork, with some meaty jambalaya, savory pintos, and a hunk of jalapeño cheese bread alongside. The original Goode Co., this place is a Texas nostalgia showcase for out-of-town guests and a family tradition for generations. Beer & wine.

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(From December 2010)

Shotguns, saddles, a stuffed buffalo, beer on ice, and wafts of mesquite smoke guarantee this is Texas to a T, and they have the “goodes” to prove it. Smoke-ringed brisket is the perennial favorite, but we’re also partial to succulent smoked turkey and turkey sausage. And we’re fans of the spicy pulled pork and lean pork ribs. For extras, we go with jalapeño cheese bread, Austin baked beans with ham and apples (though friends from Austin swear that no such dish is identified with Texas’s capital city), and pecan pie. Beer & wine.

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(From September 2010) Who knew lemons played such a key role—and a delicious one at that—in Peruvian cuisine? It took only one visit to this modest Midtown spot for us to catch on. In fact, our ceviche “cooked” in a creamy lemon–rocoto pepper sauce and served with corn and sweet potatoes quickly took a spot on our Best of 2010 list, as did the frothy pisco sours. Another great dish is the Tacu Tacu platter: rice and beans with lomo saltado (vinegar-and-soy-marinated steak), all topped with two fried eggs. Beer & wine.

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Photograph by Donna Smith

(From August 2011)

Just a little picket fence separates this down-home cafe’s picnic grounds from Main Street and the constant stream of Metro trains—only in Houston. Families dominate the outside tables; grown-ups keep cool inside. Our generous hand-cut chicken-fried steak came with fine sausage gravy and real mashed potatoes; the Daughter-in-Law Burger was an excellent veggie sandwich served with crisp onion rings. The rum-and-grenadine-laden Sucker Punch was so sweet we decided we’d go with beer next time. Bar.

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(From June 2011) Two of us feasted mightily on the grilled platter of sizzling entraña (skirt steak), boneless flat ribs of beef, juicy sausage, grilled vegeta-bles, and potatoes. And we had leftovers. Undoubtedly the handsome space and warm service also had something to do with the positive experience—that and a nice bottle of Malbec. Before we finished we had made up our minds to return to check out the likes of grilled sweetbreads, chicken milanesa, and bacon-wrapped shrimp. Beer & wine.

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