(From May 2009) A quiet meal in a plush room with rich red accents and lovely contemporary crystal chandeliers makes for a special night out—with prices to match. But a humble dish done well is a joy, like the moist roasted chicken with chanterelles and brioche-thickened chicken jus; it’s served with brussels sprouts and a side of crusty mac and cheese. And don’t let us forget to mention a kabocha squash soup with a bit of brown butter and sage and meaty pan-seared crab cake with a blood-orange-and-fennel sabayon. This is a place that shows Houston to good advantage. Bar.

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(From January 2010) Lest you suspect the name comes from its cozy Alamo Heights location (zip 78209), check the mural: 29 is Napa Valley’s main road, and this wine bar/bistro makes the most of the theme. Our salad was studded with fresh cherries, pepitas, cubes of Swiss, and tender chicken dressed in a tasty sherry vinaigrette. Even better was the duck breast confit, with a fall-off-the-bone leg and thigh, per-fectly paired with smoky bacon-flavored green lentils. Lots of gourmet pizzas too (black fig and goat cheese, for one). Beer & wine.

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(From March 2010) Soft leather and fantasy-tinged Western art beckon, while globally inspired cuisine intrigues. Take the trio of tartare timbales: tuna tartare with avocado mousse, salmon tartare with caviar, and a steak-and-egg tartare with Dijon and a quail egg. Or the seared, red-chile-seasoned tuna atop Asian greens with a spicy Thai dressing. Terrific sides include Maytag blue cheese grits and creamy aged Gouda mac and cheese. For dessert, the cinnamon-tinged bread pudding is a warm delight. Bar.

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(From March 2010) Ambition is not always evident in a city immortalized by the film Slacker, but this new spot in a former Waterloo Ice House is clearly trying. The chefs, graduates of the Culinary Institute of America, have employed mid-century design details, including Eames-inspired bar stools, to showcase updated comfort food. We settled on crisp brown-sugar waffles paired with a fried chicken breast and quite enjoyed the sweet-savory meld. An Asian-inspired pork belly sandwich was tasty, but we weren’t sure it bested traditional banh mi. All in all, though, a welcome wee-hours option. Beer & wine.

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(From May 2009) A new executive chef has spearheaded a menu overhaul at this year-old establishment. Retaining a few favorites, like the seared foie gras (now offered as a tasting size or a full portion), 2900’s new bill of fare includes an excellent crispy duck breast accented with a light, sweet mole and a fall-off-the-bone braised lamb shank. Happily, the restaurant has kept its cool, industrial interior and fantastic wine list. Bar.

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(From October 2008) An interior makeover has much improved this place. Now cool sage walls set off the black and white photos of past football glories. Hushpuppy-like crab bites and crispy onion rings started us off. We skipped the unremarkable chicken and seafood entrées and ordered our usual—a tender, juicy steak (it shamelessly sported a little rim of fat). Don’t miss the yeasty cheese rolls and signature blueberry muffins. Bar.

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(From April 2009) Teri and Zee Zepeda, proprietors of the popular Nuevo Café, have chosen for their encore this spare but attractive tearoom cum sandwich shop, where the approach to the standard lunchtime menu is refreshingly novel. Take the 517 BLT: The bread is fresh-baked brioche, the tomatoes green and fried, and the bacon cured in sweet apple cider. We like to start with a cup of the outstanding roasted-poblano soup, a welcome carryover from the menu at Nuevo. Finding 517 is an adventure, but it’s worth the effort; it’s hidden upstairs and behind Sister Sue’s boutique and can be entered via stairs or elevator in the shop or by its own rustic stairway from the rear parking lot. 517 Everhart Rd (361-991-7828). Lunch Tue–Sat 11–3. Closed Sun & Mon.

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(From July 2009) New name, same great restaurant. The former Basil Doc’s is now 575 Pizzeria, a self-proclaimed “hot spot for pints and pies.” And it’s not just about the pizza. Munch on the “brick-fired bread” with olive tapenade or the Greek salad, full of olives and artichoke hearts. The Quattro is a white pie with mozzarella, Parmesan, feta, and goat cheese. As for red pies, we like the Squillace: pepperoni, sausage, roasted red peppers, and portobellos. Don’t leave without having the cherry bread pudding, made with a croissant and topped with amaretto sauce. Beer & wine.

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(From April 2009) A recent renovation has resulted in a quieter and warmer dining space off the lobby of the Ashton Hotel, and chef Ismael Rojas has designed the menu with Southwestern palates in mind. The Tlalpan Salad (named for a district in Mexico City) featured assorted greens, toasted pistachios, and sliced cucumber tossed in a chipotle vinaigrette, while the grilled fourteen-ounce ribeye came with whipped Yukon potatoes, baby carrots, a poblano with corn sauce, and a topping of fried onions. The experienced and knowledgeable servers are a real asset. Bar.

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(From January 2009) What keeps Cushing, a brief distraction on the drive from Jacksonville to Nacogdoches, alive and kicking? The 7th Street Restaurant may be partly responsible. Located in a row of mostly abandoned century-old storefronts in Cushing’s former business district, the locally famous chow parlor puts out the basics with flair. The chicken-fried steak is a must, and under no circumstances may you pass up the creamy, East Texas—style potatoes, mashed with the peels on. Leave room for homemade pie and time to study the impressive wall of license plates, which appears to represent all fifty states (and a number of foreign countries).

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