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WINK

1014 N. Lamar Blvd
(512-482-8868)
Dinner Mon–Wed 6–10, Thur–Sat 5:30–11. (Bar Mon–Sat 5–midnight.) Closed Sun.
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$$$-$$$$

New American /
Continental

(From March 2011) Wink always feels vivacious and alive, perhaps because there is rarely an empty table at this intimate neighborhood restaurant. At the forefront of the locavore movement, Wink celebrates Texas farms, foragers, gardens, and ranches. Salads are mini works of art, a case in point being mixed lettuces, salted almonds, Asian pears, goat cheese, and ginger vinaigrette. It is perfection on a plate (though we must mention that the plate was small and the price large: $14). As for entrées, chef-owner Mark Paul has a sure hand with fish. Our salmon, perfectly grilled, was augmented by sweet cipolline, romano beans, and a truffled beurre rouge. There’s even more truffle flavor in the divine mac and cheese. If your table’s not ready, make a beeline for Wink’s cozy wine bar and relax over a cocktail. Beer & wine.

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