(From December 2009) There’s a distinct air of neighborhood hangout around the bar—probably because owner-chef Frederick Costa knows just how to deliver the seafood, steaks, and service to please his clientele. A gener-ous happy hour cheese platter kept our table of four happy till we dined on gazpacho andaluz with crabmeat (it tasted straight out of an Almodóvar movie), then shared several crisp, airy pizzas (shredded duck and shiitake, prosciutto and arugula). Heartier options include pork shank osso buco and beef tenderloin bordelaise. Bar.

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(From October 2009) Southtown’s urban charm swirls around La Frite and its sidewalk tables, especially during a First Friday art walk (reserve ahead). Chef Damien Watel has a growing empire of intimate, European-influenced spots, and this one takes its mussels and paper cones of fries seriously. The salade de mer includes perfectly cooked fish and shellfish on a bed of beautiful greens (you can substitute grilled chicken). Servers are attentive, even when the cozy spot is overrun and the kitchen a bit slow. Beer & wine.

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(From December 2009) This charming little house welcomes local Francophiles with genuine Texas warmth and authentic French fare, a winning combination if ever there was one. The chicken tartlet comes packed with fal-lish onions and Swiss. The slow-cooked, fork-tender beef cheeks with chive-studded potatoes and the scallops with a luscious purée of curried cauliflower both outclassed a slightly overcooked skate filet buried under a coating of capers. Nice wine list. Bar.

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(From December 2009) Taking a trip to Spain was a good move for chef Avner Samuel. From a list of twentysomething tapas, we particularly liked the white anchovies paired with thin slivers of red piquillo pepper with a splash of basil oil. Likewise the signature “beef cigars,” crackly long cylinders of rice paper filled with beef and sided with dill and cucumber yogurt sauce. Of the more substantial dishes, we liked the lamb chop with its minty pesto and the oven-baked farm egg casserole, a mix of potatoes, tomatoes, Spanish chorizo, and onions. Bar.

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(From May 2009) Provençal classics and a few Basque specialties populate the menu at this Rice Village newcomer, marked by a homey atmosphere and a French staff. Onion soup brimming with gooey cheese bested a chewy escargot appetizer, but both of our hefty, slow-cooked entrées—osso buco and boned short ribs—inspired smiles (and required doggie bags). A wedge of simple, creamy gâteau basque will sweeten any shopping break, and the $20 three-course Tuesday and Wednesday dinner special may be worth a spontaneous detour. BYOB.

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(From September 2009) The burgundy walls and print tablecloths of this cozy bistro launched us on the first stage of our journey from west Houston to the Mediterranean. We were completely transported once our kind server brought a delicately seasoned pork terrine, duck rillettes, and a bowl of creamy ginger-carrot soup. Before we could completely spoil our appetite with flatbread fresh from the pizza oven, our entrées appeared: sautéed grouper paired with ratatouille-filled cannelloni and a winey beef stew with olives and potatoes. Clinking glasses of Côtes du Rhône, we promised to make this quick trip again. Beer & wine.

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(From March 2009) What began as a renamed redo of Fredericksburg Road’s Bistro Time has morphed into something different, with a trendy bar, a sleek dining room, and lots of friendly front-of-house staff. New chef Jose Benitez trained with former chef/owner Sander Edmondson, but nothing from the former menu remains. Bold flavors piqued our interest—calamari with lemon pepper, ahi tuna with Dijon honey vinaigrette—but execution was lacking. The ahi was lovely but overpowered by the vinaigrette, and the calamari was almost undetectable beneath its breading, which tasted way too much like a commercial mix. That said, the room was full of seemingly happy diners, so perhaps we ordered the wrong thing. Bar.

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(From July 2009) Those on the near North Side have taken this bistro into their hearts. Start, perhaps, with a savory Brie and onion tart accompanied by a frisée salad, then move on to tender sautéed calf’s liver with a generous mass of onions and fried potatoes or maybe to veal tenderloin with a béchamel sauce. Vatel’s service and decor faithfully re-create the experience of eating in a modest restaurant in France. At $42, the three-course prix fixe menu is a good choice. Beer & wine.

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(From December 2009) We are often drawn to this inviting space, filled with the heady aromas of French cooking. And why resist, with comfort food like meaty, rich beef bourguignonne and steaming onion soup topped with crusty bread and melted cheese? Even lighter dishes satisfy, like the salad niçoise with a slab of tuna or spring greens topped with two big dollops of creamy goat cheese. Capable servers and good French wines round out the experience. Beer & wine.

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(From December 2009) If the building bore the patina of time and the language being spoken was French rather than, um, Texan, you could be in a bustling Parisian brasserie. Pavil is defined by tall ceilings, expanses of tile floor, impeccably attired (and well-trained) staff, and an expansive but straightforward menu of steak, shellfish, and the like. We love the beautiful bouillabaisse with half a lobster tail; the pounded flank steak and even tastier fries; and, best of them all, the grilled calamari and endive salad—it gives new meaning to fresh, French, and frisky. Check out the monthly beer dinners. Bar.

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