Big Bend Region

(From August 2011)

Even if it wasn’t located at the only hostelry in Big Bend National Park and even if it didn’t have a spectacular mountain view, the lodge is a better-than-it-has-to-be dining destination (it’s almost 80 miles south of Marathon). Burgers and chops are given careful consideration, the Mexican menu is sure to please, and the salad bar and fresh soups always delight. Recently, we fell hard for the potato skins, cheesy and toasted to perfection. Beer & wine. 

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(From June 2011) As with the town itself, change comes slowly to this venerable spot. The decor is still cheerless, the chairs straight-backed, and the sound track filled with hokey Texas standards. As for the food, it was hit or miss on our last visit, with meat loaf billed as “spicy” actually flavorless and mushy and wedges of pie served partially frozen. But there were a few bright spots. The burgundy-marinated pot roast was properly cooked and hearty, and the mashed potatoes alongside came with plenty of good gravy. The star of the evening? Just-baked buttermilk biscuits. Private club, membership $3.

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Alex Marks

(From January 2011)

Maiya’s This urbane, high-desert refuge from the ordinary remains interesting and consistent, with smart menu tweaks to engage the regulars. Hearty beef and salmon entrées pleased us, but the scene stealer was a simple white bean salad in a balanced dressing of balsamic vinegar, olive oil, garlic, and basil. A rich filet of wild coho came topped with an equally rich pistachio butter. Two riches make a wrong, right? Not in this case. The grilled tenderloin was also near perfect, but the accompanying raw beet and citrus salad was puckery sour. Bar.

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(From May 2012)

What this tiny indoor-outdoor cafe really needs is a row of hammocks, because meals here tend to leave you wanting nothing so much as a nap, even at nine in the morning. There are old-school hamburgers, a burrito the size of a cord of firewood, and a killer BLT. But the menu is definitely breakfast-centric. Just don’t make any big plans for right after.

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(From May 2011) This veteran cafe east of Sleeping Lion Mountain is a Tex-Mex stalwart, even as nearby restaurants defect to trendier New Mexico–style cuisine. It has nothing fancy, just well-executed enchiladas, tacos, and a few non-Mex offerings like catfish and burgers. The rellenos and the chicken fajitas remain our favorites, but we like the chalupas for a lighter meal. Especially flavorful salsa, guacamole, and chile con queso play supporting roles. Half the town shows up exactly at noon for the lunch buffet, so be warned.

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(From January 2012)

You could be forgiven for thinking Padre’s is just a funky music bar, since the first thing you see is a stage sprouting mike stands. But it is definitely worth dropping in for the bar food, which nods to both sides of the Sabine River with Cajun gumbos and Frito pie. We decided to sample the vegetarian curry, a really good combo of carrots, peppers, celery, and squash in coconut milk over rice. The menu called it moderately spicy—we shudder to contemplate very spicy.

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(From June 2011) Power menu meets power diners in an über-Marfa-cool space. Recent temptations included our favorite, the grilled rack of lamb, served on giant white beans with a leek-and-potato terrine, delectable in both flavor and presentation. This time we picked a bold fettuccine with asparagus, cannellini beans, and spicy chile flakes. With creamy, lemony mashers and braised brussels sprouts, the hickory-grilled swordfish proved as satisfying but without the fireworks. Cheers for the clever appetizer of peppery shrimp, bacon, grits, and a poached egg and for the dessert of bread pudding splashed with rum—spoons for all! Beer & wine.

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(From January 2012)

When you just want something light—smoothies, salads, sandwiches—this hole-in-the-wall should be your first choice. The lovely longitudinal patio and inside aisles are one-way only, but the ultra-trim Marfa customers fit right in (literally), crowding Squeeze Marfa’s postage stamp–size tables with yogurt parfaits, fresh fruit, granola, and waffles.

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(From May 2012)

Rome wanted to take all that was great in ancient Greece and make it its own. In the same spirit, this Italian pizzeria offers a delectable Greek gyro. Even inside the thick pita, waxed paper, and foil, the seasoned lamb shavings were almost too hot to taste at first. But, oh, that dill-flecked tzatziki, creamy and piquant! Nearby conversations about college classes and the relative merits of different saddles fade away as you’re transported to some place in the Mediterranean, or maybe just Houston—but definitely not West Texas. Beer & wine.

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(From November 2011)

The window of opportunity to eat here is small, but it’s worth it. First good impression: glasses of excellent tea, accompanied by delicious aromas from the platters on your table. Our chiles rellenos enclosed melted yellow cheese in a hotter-than-usual green chile and sported a fantastic crust. Poco also makes a mean CFS, but our favorite this time was the old-fashioned hamburger. A franchise joint next door would go broke. 

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