Houston

(From May 2009) A quiet meal in a plush room with rich red accents and lovely contemporary crystal chandeliers makes for a special night out—with prices to match. But a humble dish done well is a joy, like the moist roasted chicken with chanterelles and brioche-thickened chicken jus; it’s served with brussels sprouts and a side of crusty mac and cheese. And don’t let us forget to mention a kabocha squash soup with a bit of brown butter and sage and meaty pan-seared crab cake with a blood-orange-and-fennel sabayon. This is a place that shows Houston to good advantage. Bar.

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(From June 2008) Inner Loopers seldom venture to the burbs to eat, but Missouri City folks seem to know something the rest of us don’t. This attractive storefront, broken into small, cozy areas, attracts big crowds for imaginative food at small-town prices. Prime examples include burrata cheese with tomatoes and a balsamic vinaigrette and the Surf & Turf, a clever combo of sea scallops and deboned beef short ribs in a burgundy reduction. Filet mignon, rubbed with pepper and served with a cognac mushroom sauce and fries, proved a bargain at $24. Beer & wine.

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(From August 2008) We hit the Wall recently (in a good way), vying with the hip young crowd for a seat in this high-ceilinged, concrete-floored neighborhood spot. The attraction? Good, reasonably priced food. A warm goat cheese salad with arugula, endive, and orange slices beat out the slightly salty shrimp broth with light cream, vegetables, and bacon. But the main course was worthy of applause: roasted chicken with lemon salt and buttery garlic mashers. Bar.

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(From December 2009) We hear raves and pans for Grove, but our visit to this ultracool Discovery Green site planted us firmly in the rave group. Who wouldn’t love heirloom tomatoes graced with queso fresco and fresh oregano or arugula with wafer-thin peach slices, goat cheese, and spiced pecans? Who wouldn’t be happy with thinly sliced pork atop parsnip purée with apple sauce or tender fried shrimp in jalapeño-ginger sauce? And that view of the park—perfect! Bar.

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(From December 2009) Quite a meal can be made foraging among the small plates listed at the top of the menu: roasted beets with pistachio and feta; risotto with cremini mushrooms, grana cheese, and a touch of truffle oil; crisp calamari with lime-chile aioli. Or go the traditional route, with something like a wedge salad with Green Goddess followed by meaty lamb chops with creole mustard sauce and cheesy grits. The wine list is extensive, the interior sleek and good-looking, and the service polished. Bar.

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(From July 2008) This bastion of French cuisine in west Houston has just moved into stylish new digs next door to its old address, which says a lot about the loyalty of its ever-increasing fan base. Appetizing starters included foie gras terrine and wild mushroom soup with garlic whipped cream. We were delighted to revisit red snapper en papillote on a bed of leeks, a favorite from childhood, as well as the caramelized duck in orange sauce. Bar.

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(From December 2009) Sunday brunch, that great Houston pastime, is held in high regard here. Imagine happy folks enjoying Bistro Benedicts (with avocado, prosciutto, and tomato pesto), blueberry chicken salads, and huevos rancheros in a vibrantly painted space with soaring ceilings. Dinner is equally good; we love the quick-fried calamari served with both a sweet-spicy sauce and a killer remoulade, the Kobe beef burger with seared foie gras, and mussels in coconut milk broth with a touch of red curry. Bar.

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(From December 2009) In this elegant space, the business express lunch is exquisite—and a bargain. Think highfalutin bento boxes with four mini-courses, like baby greens with shaved fennel and vanilla bean vinaigrette; flavorful lentil soup; pasta with buffalo bolognese and mozzarella; and luscious caramel cream puffs. An equally splendid choice is the meaty pan-seared spearfish with shrimp-stuffed ravioli and sautéed spinach. We think we overheard the word “hoity-toity” bandied about, but we sure had fun. Bar.

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(From July 2009) This new venture from chef Bruce Molzan and owner Federico Marques has the honor of being Houston’s first Certified Green Restaurant. Think energy efficiency, recycling, green building materials, organic and all-natural food, and much more. There’s a blackboard menu and an umbrella-shaded deck, and, a few service glitches aside, a fine meal to be had. We liked the chicken curry salad (perked up with raisins, dried mango, and orange-honey dressing) and the turkey meatball panino (with mozzarella, Gruyère, Swiss, and Fontina cheeses, tomato sauce, and sweet peppers). Only the hamburger proved to be nothing special. Beer & wine.

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(From February 2009) The contemporary setting complements the clean, fresh flavors of the menu at this Heights favorite. We enjoyed the measured pace of our meal, which started with beefy vine-ripened tomatoes simply garnished with feta cheese and basil and a lively mixed greens salad with grapefruit, roasted beets, and citrus vinaigrette. Equally impressive were the sautéed halibut atop mashed purple potatoes and grilled zucchini and the plump grilled pork chop with savory Gruyère bread pudding and sautéed Swiss chard. Bar.

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