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EL ALMA
1025 Barton Springs Rd.
(512-609-8923)
Open Sun & Mon 11-9, Tue-Sat 11-10
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$-$$ |
Mexican |
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(From January 2012) In news from cursed dining locales (even CNN Money called 1025 Barton Springs a "deadly spot"), the El Chile team has transformed a former EC outpost into a showcase for Mexico-City born chef Alma Alcocer-Thomas (relax, the Chilanga is still on the cocktail list.) The building retains its quirky South Austin feel, with its white walls and stone staircase leading to a rooftop deck; on a nice day you can imbibe alfresco while gazing over the 1st Stop Food Store to the lights of downtown. Chef Alcocer-Thomas, whose Cordon Bleu training has served her well at a number of places (like Jeffrey's), has a style that renders her food both earthy and light, everyday and elevated. The menu leans more Mex than Tex--duck enmoladas, quail with mole, three rellenos--and lively flavors and complex sauces dominate. Try the chuleta de puerco: a Mexican Coke-marinated pork chop, perfectly cooked, served with a pasilla-Coke sauce and a relleno stuffed with rice and melted cheese.
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FRESA’S
915 N. Lamar Blvd.
(512-428-5077)
Open Tue-Sun 11-10. Closed Mon.
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$-$$ |
Mexican |
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(From June 2012) When Austin chef-restaurateur Larry McGuire does a drive-through and walk-up, it’s news. So we queued up. For $14 we got half a medium-sized chicken wrapped up in butcher paper, two sides, tortillas, and salsas. Verdict: Thumbs up for the incredibly moist charcoal-grilled local fowl (ours was seasoned in achiote and citrus). Double thumbs up for the fabulous homemade corn tortillas and the spicy salsas (tomato-serrano and jalapeño-garlic). We also loved the whole jalapeño roasted in soy sauce (shades of South Texas). The Mexican rice with green peas was ordinary (the white jasmine rice is better). But do spring for the utterly addictive Mexican street corn slathered in mayo, cotija cheese, and lime zest. No seating. Beer &
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LA CONDESA
400 W. 2nd
(512-499-0300)
Open Mon–Wed 5–10, Thur & Fri 5–11, Sat 11–11, Sun 11–10. Brunch Sat & Sun 11–2. Dinner reservations recommended.
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$$$ |
Mexican |
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(From January 2011) Even a snack like a huarache, a masa tart topped with chihuahua cheese, mushrooms, truffle oil, and huitlacoche (an earthy corn fungus), had layers of flavor. And imagine what the kitchen does with a dish like tacos arábicos, filled with spice-rubbed venison swabbed with two sauces: a cooling tzatziki-type yogurt and a spunky chipotle blend (these tacos were served at the James Beard House in New York recently). The Oaxacan black mole (with both sliced breast of duck and confit of leg) is emblematic of the avant-garde Mexican cuisine that is Condesa’s signature. For fun, though, Mexican-street-fair corn on the cob has been added to the menu; it’s not all serious here. Bar. |
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MANUEL’S
310 Congress Ave
(512-472-7555)
Open Sun-Thur 11-10, Fri & Sat 11-11.
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$$-$$$ |
Mexican |
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(From May 2012) Aging gracefully despite some serious competition in the upscale Mexican category, this chic spot downtown still has plenty of classic style, with its black banquettes and clean white plates. A porcelain cocotte of shredded chicken (bathing in a deep, rich mole and melting cheese) and a starter of tuna ceviche (tiny cubes of ahi creamy with avocado) were classic and classy starters. Among the entrées, a chile relleno en nogada, with the traditional pomegranate seeds as garnish, was gorgeous as well as impeccably prepared. A thick slice of beef tenderloin with a roasted chile pasilla sauce was more than generous. We appreciate the noise-absorbing carpeting in the back room, which kept us from having to shout across the table. Bar. |
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ZANDUNGA MEXICAN BISTRO
1000 E. 11th
(512-473-4199)
Open Mon–Fri 11–10, Sat 10–11, Sun 10–3. Brunch Sat & Sun 10–3.
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$$–$$$ |
Mexican |
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(From December 2010) Chef Edgar Torres has Tex-Mex in his DNA—he’s the son of the owners of Mi Madre’s—but the Culinary Institute of America grad is taking Mexican food in an exciting direction. His guacamole consists of beautiful mashed avocado served in a molcajete surrounded by condiments for the diner to add at will: colorful roasted tomato and jalapeño plus mango and pickled onion. His tender pork chop is glazed with a quince-guava demi-glace and sided by a light Mexican “ratatouille†of chopped chayote, jÃcama, onion, and corn. Some dishes need tweaking: harissa-infused chile sauce on slightly overcooked shrimp was dauntingly spicy and harsh. The setting sets smart mustard-yellow walls against dark wood accents. Bar. |
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VIVO
Lake Creek Village, 12233 Ranch Road 620
(512-331-4660)
Open Mon 11-9, Tue-Thur 11-10, Fri 11-midnight, Sat noon-midnight, Sun 4-9.
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$-$$ |
Tex-Mex /
Mexican |
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(From January 2012) Although tucked into a strip mall, this brazenly sexy spot is anything but demure. In one of the round booths with Marilyn Monroe winking from the wall, coddle a crisp, clean Herradura cucumber margarita. Yes, you can always absorb the booze from puffy tacos, but now that Vivo has a name chef--the ever-migrating Paul Peterson, of Little Texas Bistro in Buda, the Gage Hotal in Marathon, and Rick's Chophouse in McKinney--you should try something like the crab enchiladas: corn tortillas lushly stuffed with crab and scallions in a creamy poblano sauce. The smoked, tequila-braised pork belly with Dr Pepper-chipotle barbecue sauce is Peterson's too; ditto the brisket tacos. The more challenging, sophisticated menu items are a welcome counterpoint to the graffiti art and portraits of Latina lovelies. Bar. |
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