Corpus Christi

(From April 2009) Teri and Zee Zepeda, proprietors of the popular Nuevo Café, have chosen for their encore this spare but attractive tearoom cum sandwich shop, where the approach to the standard lunchtime menu is refreshingly novel. Take the 517 BLT: The bread is fresh-baked brioche, the tomatoes green and fried, and the bacon cured in sweet apple cider. We like to start with a cup of the outstanding roasted-poblano soup, a welcome carryover from the menu at Nuevo. Finding 517 is an adventure, but it’s worth the effort; it’s hidden upstairs and behind Sister Sue’s boutique and can be entered via stairs or elevator in the shop or by its own rustic stairway from the rear parking lot. 517 Everhart Rd (361-991-7828). Lunch Tue–Sat 11–3. Closed Sun & Mon.

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(From March 2009) Cafe Aeby always impresses with its high level of service and food that’s innovative and appealingly presented. A salad of roasted beets and organic greens comes embellished with candied walnuts, blue cheese, and turmeric vinegar; delicious poached salmon rests on a bed of paper-thin slices of marinated cucumber; hearty Italian sausage with a grainy mustard sauce sits atop sauerkraut and puréed potatoes. Warning: Call ahead to be sure the restaurant is open for dinner, as unannounced closings for private events are common. Beer & wine.

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(From November 2009) Everything is a bit quirky here—except for the food, which always makes the trek to the island (and a possible wait) worth the effort. If your party is small, expect to share a table with fellow admirers of chef Dominique Cordier. The star dish on our visit was a special of wild salmon, perfectly grilled and accompanied by three large shrimp, garlicky green beans, and a crisp salad. We added the signature potato puffs—feather-light whipped potatoes encased in a thin, nutmeg-flavored crust—and the crab cakes, which were, as always, Chesapeake quality. Beer & wine.

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(From June 2009) Hester and Jason Rodriguez have perfected their formula, judging by the daily lines of regulars. High on our list of recommendations are the hearty Swinney Switch salad (black-bean-and-corn salsa over roasted turkey, smoked bacon, red-chile pecans, and avocado on a bed of fresh greens); the bacon-cheddar scone with eggs, applewood-smoked bacon, and rosemary potatoes; and the peppery bean and vegetable soup.

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(From November 2008) A regional landmark and barbecue mecca, this popular place has had sixty-something years to perfect its formula: Do a few things exceedingly well. Ordering is simple; choose any combination of succulent pit-smoked meat (brisket, sausage, pork ribs), and your choice will arrive quickly on layers of butcher paper with a cup of pinto beans and a slice each of tomato, onion, dill pickle, jalapeño, and wheat and white bread. (The mildly sweet sauce is mostly superfluous.) Beer & wine.

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(From March 2009) On a recent return to this congenial downtown spot, we forewent the pleasure of the seafood and veal specials that invariably tempt us in favor of the featured steak offerings. And after sampling the rich tenderloin medallions, the juicy filet, and the full-flavored New York strip, we concluded that, as advertised, chef George Elizondo does indeed know his red meat. And that’s not all: Salads were crisp and cold; vegetables were thoughtfully prepared; and, as usual, the signature Katz Meow appetizer was an irresistible combination of sautéed shrimp and crabmeat served on toast points and dressed with béarnaise. Bar.

June 28th, 2009 at 5:59pm
Larry says:
You need to update your listing for Katz 21. They are not open for lunch at this time.

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(From September 2008) Before his retirement, Joe Luciano cultivated a loyal following for his warm hospitality and dependable Italian dishes. Now his grandson carries the torch, having revived the name and recipes at a nearby location. We found notable among the old standards the baked lasagne, the stracciatella soup with spinach and Parmesan, and the generous antipasti platter of meats, cheeses, peppers, and olives. Beer & wine.

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(From November 2009) The Delzotto brothers—gregarious Marino (and his signature meerschaum) at the door and brilliant Gianni at the stove—preside over a warm, informal atmosphere that nevertheless offers white-linen service and beautifully prepared seafood and northern Italian standards. Our table was graced with a well-seared filet of salmon with garlic-sautéed spinach and two linguine dishes, one with flounder in a delicate sauce of lemon, butter, and white wine and the other with shrimp and mushrooms in a creamy, tomatoey sauce. The Delzottos have enjoyed years of popularity, for good reason. The cooking is notable, the wine affordable, and the portions more than generous. Beer & wine.

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(From October 2009) The latest pioneer to stake a claim on the site of the lamented Hofbrau steakhouse, the RSS (original location in Odem) offers a nice variety of steak and seafood dishes in a warehouse environment (with regrettable acoustics). We enjoyed a grilled drum filet accompanied by passable mixed vegetables and an excellent coleslaw livened up with chopped broccoli and a sprinkle of bacon chips. We were also pleased with a copious green salad graced with fried popcorn shrimp and a generous slice of homemade chocolate cheesecake. Bar.

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(From May 2009) Chef Francisco Jiménez and his team of excellent servers deliver food worthy of this showplace setting, which is quite possibly the most elegant dining room in South Texas. Although the menu displays a serious commitment to red meat and game, we were delighted with the seafood, starting with the luxe Iberia Bolsa de Mar: puff pastry purses filled with lobster, scallops, crab, and Manchego cheese and served with a champagne aioli. What followed kept pace: peppercorn-crusted ahi tuna in a creamy green curry and pan-seared filets of local flounder with a mildly picante jalapeño butter sauce. Bar.

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