Corpus Christi

(From April 2009) Teri and Zee Zepeda, proprietors of the popular Nuevo Café, have chosen for their encore this spare but attractive tearoom cum sandwich shop, where the approach to the standard lunchtime menu is refreshingly novel. Take the 517 BLT: The bread is fresh-baked brioche, the tomatoes green and fried, and the bacon cured in sweet apple cider. We like to start with a cup of the outstanding roasted-poblano soup, a welcome carryover from the menu at Nuevo. Finding 517 is an adventure, but it’s worth the effort; it’s hidden upstairs and behind Sister Sue’s boutique and can be entered via stairs or elevator in the shop or by its own rustic stairway from the rear parking lot. 517 Everhart Rd (361-991-7828). Lunch Tue–Sat 11–3. Closed Sun & Mon.

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(From March 2009) Cafe Aeby always impresses with its high level of service and food that’s innovative and appealingly presented. A salad of roasted beets and organic greens comes embellished with candied walnuts, blue cheese, and turmeric vinegar; delicious poached salmon rests on a bed of paper-thin slices of marinated cucumber; hearty Italian sausage with a grainy mustard sauce sits atop sauerkraut and puréed potatoes. Warning: Call ahead to be sure the restaurant is open for dinner, as unannounced closings for private events are common. Beer & wine.

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(From October 2009) In a spectacular front row seat overlooking the intersection of Corpus Christi Bay and the Ship Channel, we had a satisfying light Starving Artist lunch of half a panino-style sandwich plus a (large) cup of outstanding roasted red pepper soup. One of our favorites, the Southwest Caesar—crisp romaine with chicken, black beans, tomatoes, crisp tortilla strips, Parmesan, and chipotle Caesar dressing—can be viewed as “light” only if you take home half in a doggie bag. Bar.

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(From December 2009) Everything is a bit quirky here—except for the food, which always makes the trek to the island worth the effort. If your party is small, expect to share a table with fellow admirers of chef Dominique Cordier. The star dish on our visit was a special of wild salmon, perfectly grilled and accompanied by three large shrimp and garlicky green beans. We added the signature potato puffs—feather-light whipped potatoes encased in a thin, nutmeg-flavored crust—and the crab cakes, which were, as always, Chesapeake quality. Beer & wine.

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(From December 2009) Constantly upgrading their menu, service, and decor, Henry and Kathy Ngo have turned this nondescript spot into a jewel. Outstanding is their platter-size rice-flour crepe stuffed with shrimp, chicken, and bean sprouts. Equally delightful was a blackboard special of honey walnut shrimp, the shellfish lightly crusted and flash-fried, then served with walnuts in a honey-based glaze. Also notable: sweet potato flan (more the texture of a pudding than the silky Mexican dessert) complemented by a coconut milk–tapioca sauce. Beer & wine.

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(From June 2009) Hester and Jason Rodriguez have perfected their formula, judging by the daily lines of regulars. High on our list of recommendations are the hearty Swinney Switch salad (black-bean-and-corn salsa over roasted turkey, smoked bacon, red-chile pecans, and avocado on a bed of fresh greens); the bacon-cheddar scone with eggs, applewood-smoked bacon, and rosemary potatoes; and the peppery bean and vegetable soup.

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(From November 2008) A regional landmark and barbecue mecca, this popular place has had sixty-something years to perfect its formula: Do a few things exceedingly well. Ordering is simple; choose any combination of succulent pit-smoked meat (brisket, sausage, pork ribs), and your choice will arrive quickly on layers of butcher paper with a cup of pinto beans and a slice each of tomato, onion, dill pickle, jalapeño, and wheat and white bread. (The mildly sweet sauce is mostly superfluous.) Beer & wine.

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(From March 2009) On a recent return to this congenial downtown spot, we forewent the pleasure of the seafood and veal specials that invariably tempt us in favor of the featured steak offerings. And after sampling the rich tenderloin medallions, the juicy filet, and the full-flavored New York strip, we concluded that, as advertised, chef George Elizondo does indeed know his red meat. And that’s not all: Salads were crisp and cold; vegetables were thoughtfully prepared; and, as usual, the signature Katz Meow appetizer was an irresistible combination of sautéed shrimp and crabmeat served on toast points and dressed with béarnaise. Bar.

June 28th, 2009 at 5:59pm
Larry says:
You need to update your listing for Katz 21. They are not open for lunch at this time.

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(From September 2008) Before his retirement, Joe Luciano cultivated a loyal following for his warm hospitality and dependable Italian dishes. Now his grandson carries the torch, having revived the name and recipes at a nearby location. We found notable among the old standards the baked lasagne, the stracciatella soup with spinach and Parmesan, and the generous antipasti platter of meats, cheeses, peppers, and olives. Beer & wine.

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(From December 2009) The Delzotto brothers—gregarious Marino at the door and brilliant Gianni at the stove—preside over a warm, informal atmosphere that nevertheless offers white-linen service and beautifully prepared seafood and northern Italian standards. Our table was graced with a well-seared filet of salmon with garlic-sautéed spinach and two linguine dishes, one with flounder in a delicate sauce of lemon, but-ter, and white wine and the other with shrimp and mushrooms in a creamy, tomatoey sauce. The Delzottos have enjoyed years of popularity, for good reason. The cooking is notable, the wine afford-able, and the portions more than generous. Beer & wine.

November 18th, 2009 at 9:22pm
Jeanmarie says:
It should be known that Marino Delzotto is the force that is Mamma Mia’s. He is the owner, creator, work force, and chef. He has been known to even wash dishes when needed. He is the reason why we get to enjoy the satisfying, prepared just right dishes. He creates this because, it is him. His love of life, his desire to enjoy the good things in life and his passion for the american dream. He has hand picked every part of his restaurant down to the staff. He has brought in his trusted friend who is his right hand chef and his brother who is also his chef. He even has even given his wife the position of running the undercurrent of the business so that he can focus on his customers while they dine in "his home" which is Mamma Mia’s which translates to My Mamma. When you eat there to him it is with the same quality you would find in his mother’s home, and that’s where all these chefs come from, home.....I know this because Marino is my home, he is my father and no daughter could be prouder of her parents and what they have accomplished, all their sacrifice and how far they have come...to the diner it’s a restaurant, to my parents it is their home. Enjoy what my parents have created, enjoy a piece of my home.....

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