Bryan

(From June 2011) The setting is sleek and the offerings creative, extensive, and, as you might ex-pect, expensive. Here’s a hint. Go for lunch, where you can find bargains like sushi com-bos, noodle bowls, and bento boxes; we like the beautifully presented crab tempura box, its moist crab and vegetables pairing nicely with a fresh spring roll, a delightful Cali-fornia roll, and steamed rice with just the right amount of “sticky.” Bar.

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(From March 2011) Christopher Lampo’s uptown menu keeps this hip farmhouse hopping. Our dinner started with a “whet your appetite” amuse of Italian sausage with a light pesto, which we followed with an entrée of savory cornbread-crusted chicken breast. Vegetables get proper attention here too; the chicken came with fresh spinach, a roasted corn–crawfish ragoût, and lobster mashed potatoes (proving that old adage “Everything is better with lobster”). The wine list is extensive; call on the well-trained servers to walk you through it. Bar.

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(From April 2012)

From the cookie-cutter chains to the greasy spoons, local Mexican food is nothing if not predictable. But one unassuming eatery tucked away on a residential street near downtown stands out. Tiny Gina’s has a surprisingly large menu, offering specialties like chicharrón en salsa and chilacas, the long, narrow chiles shredded and served in a creamy sauce with onions, tomatoes, and jalapeños. We tried thick sopes topped with juicy shredded brisket; sprinkled with cheese, salsa verde, and onions, they were irresistible. Beer & wine.

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(From November 2011)

Downtown Bryan has become a magnet for good restaurants, as evidenced by this latest arrival. With live music most Thursday and Friday nights, a friendly staff, and drink specials all day, Charley’s could get away with bar snacks. Instead, the food is the main attraction. The fish sandwich is the best we’ve had in ages: a cod filet marinated and then batter-fried. The chicken-fried steak was likewise superb, as were the perfectly seasoned fries and sweet potato puffs. The freshness of the ingredients was evident in every bite. Bar.

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(From May 2011) The lure of new items on the menu (not to mention the tomato bisque with mozzarella and saffron cream) keeps the crowds returning to this spot in historic downtown Bryan. Shredded pork enchiladas with black bean risotto and avocado salad ignite all the senses, while the tenderloin on focaccia with blue cheese and homemade mayonnaise is a he-man-size treat. A bevy of stores surrounds this venue in the Old Bryan Marketplace, adding considerably to the entertainment value. Beer & wine.

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(From July 2011)

With the pizza industry overrun by chain restaurants, dining at Mr. G’s, in downtown Bryan, is a refreshing reprieve. Giovanni Cerone, the patriarch of this family of restaurateurs, clearly takes great pride in his creations; he’s warm and welcoming when you enter his restaurant and notoriously cranky if you dare ask to substitute ingredients. Pizzas run the gamut, from a spinach alfredo version to a gyro pizza (seasoned beef and tzatziki). But the stars of the show are the calzones, giant half-moons of golden crust stuffed with fresh meats, vegetables, and cheeses. We’re partial to the original: pepperoni with a flavorful blend of mozzarella and ricotta. Add in a bruschetta, some side salads, and a dessert, and you’ve got the perfect meal. 

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(From January 2011) In historic downtown Bryan, the star of the show at the popular Perez family restaurant is the fried avocado: The buttery fruit is enveloped in a crunchy crust that gives way to reveal a spicy filling of cumin-laced chicken. The usual beans and rice get ramped up with a “suit your taste” ladle of mildly hot, full-of-flavor salsa. You’ll kick yourself for eating so much, but just go ahead and loosen your belt. Beer & wine.

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(From June 2011)

Sodolaks Beefmasters is, quite simply, pure Texas—hefty portions of unbeatable chicken-fried steak, perfectly grilled ribeyes and pork chops, sumptuous catfish and shrimp, and such trademark Southern sides as turnip greens, black-eyed peas, and okra. Top it off with pecan, peach, or blackberry cobbler, and you’ll be loosening your belt before you get home. Scattered among the restaurant’s rustic decor are police, military, and firefighter badges—seals of approval from some pretty tough customers. Don’t come here expecting more healthy fare than a couple of salads can offer. But if you’re craving the kind of country cooking you enjoyed back in the day, you just can’t beat Sodolaks. Beer & wine.

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(From May 2012)

While it’s a bit of a stretch to use the label “alternative” to describe the crowd here, this cafe is about as close to an Austin experience as you’re going to get in Bryan–College Station. The food comes primarily from local organic growers and businesses, and the menu features plenty of vegetarian fare. We opted for the Happy Bee Sandwich—a warm, grilled concoction of freshly ground peanut butter, honey, bananas, and cinnamon that oozed with every delightful bite—and chicken salad mixed with toasted pecans, coconut, and orange slices (blander than we expected). Along with sandwiches, menu items include salads, soups, baked goods, a few breakfast goodies, and a vast array of coffees. The Village also features the work of local artists and hosts live music and salsa dancing. Beer & wine.

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(From January 2011) The Bonarrigo family artfully blends a fine-dining experience with an informal room that overlooks their breathtaking Messina Hof vineyard. And the wines make an appearance (sometimes with a shout, sometimes a whisper) in every dish on the menu, from tempura calamari with a riesling vinaigrette to a roasted rack of lamb with a cabernet demi-glace. One of our favorites is grilled redfish served with crisp tortilla strips, corn salsa, and a gewürztraminer-chile-cilantro butter. Wine.

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