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TONY’S
3755 Richmond Ave (713-622-6778) Open Mon–Thur 11–10, Fri 11–midnight, Sat 5:30–midnight. Closed Sun. Reservations recommended. web site | map | latest review | photo | access ++ | add to library |
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$$$–$$$$ |
Houston
| American |

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(From May 2012) We delighted in a new treatment of luscious buratta, served with warm polenta, herbs, and curls of rich pancetta. Alas, our entrée of Gulf Coast snapper was marred by overcooked fish (nicely moistened, though, by its pool of reduced barolo wine) and three minuscule potatoes and a smear of spinach—hardly what we would call sides. Expect expert service; a gracious, art-filled setting; and, perhaps, a tableside visit from longtime restaurateur Tony Vallone himself. Bar.
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BRANCH WATER TAVERN
510 Shepherd Dr, at Gibson (713-863-7777) Open Sun & Tue–Thur 11–10, Fri 11–11, Sat 5–11. Brunch Sun 11–4. Closed Mon. Reservations recommended. web site | map | latest review | photo | access ++ | add to library |
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$$-$$$ |
Houston
| American |

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(From May 2012) Lots of things work at this Heights restaurant and publike bar: warm wood and brick accents, flattering lighting, a comfortable atmosphere, and, most important, imaginative food that tastes great. Case in point: slow-cooked deboned beef short ribs, fetchingly arranged on braised kale and rich mushroom risotto. Equally delicious: seared diver scallops and butternut squash ravioli with crispy prosciutto and plate-lickin’-good brown butter sauce. We were also impressed with our capable server, whose wine suggestions proved spot-on. Bar.
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THE FRENCH ROOM
Adolphus Hotel, 1321 Commerce (214-742-8200) Dinner Tue-Sat 6-10. Closed Sun & Mon. web site | map | reserve through OpenTable | latest review | photo | access ++ | add to library |
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$$$$ |
Dallas
| American |

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(From June 2012) From the moment the French country–style pâté with minced artichoke and truffle and a drizzle of coconut champagne vinaigrette arrived at the table, we knew we’d done the right thing in choosing the tasting menu. Next came fork-tender sous-vide rabbit loin on a bed of green garlic and sweet-bread ragout. Then delicate European turbot nestled atop beluga lentil purée and crème fraîche topped with a single crispy wild boar raviolo. Gouda aged for four years and a seasonal fruit tart ushered in the final stages of a meal we hated to say goodbye to. The sweet ending: a blood orange semi-freddo with meringue crumbles. Save your dollars and enjoy an evening at this loveliest of rooms. Bar.
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LIBERTY BAR
1111 S. Alamo (210-227-1187) Open Sun–Thur 7–10:30 & 11–9:30, Fri & Sat 7–10:30 & 11–midnight. Brunch Sat & Sun 10:30–1:45. web site | map | latest review | photo | access ++ | add to library |
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San Antonio
| American / Home Cooking |

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(From May 2012) Depending on the time of day or night, you may find service upstairs, downstairs, and even outside this red-brick former convent. But wherever you’re seated, there’s something comfortable, familiar, and familial about the Lib. We continue to delight (after several decades of experience) in the edited simplicity, careful attention to flavor and texture, and all-round dependability of the kitchen and staff and their “serious food.” We started our lunch (after a hearty slice of the house bread) with grilled slices of potato and garlic sauce, then launched into a special of mole chicken enchiladas, rich and perfectly balanced with white Mexican rice and black beans. From the “basics” menu, roast lamb topped with arugula on whole-wheat toast exemplifies the approach. Bar.
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MARK’S AMERICAN CUISINE
1658 Westheimer Rd, at Dunlavy (713-523-3800) Lunch Mon-Fri 11-2. Dinner Mon-Thur 5:30-10, Fri 5:30-11, Sat 5-11, Sun 5-10. Reservations strongly recommended. web site | map | latest review | access ++ | add to library |
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$$$-$$$$ |
Houston
| American |

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(From March 2012) A recent visit to chef-owner Mark Cox's intimate restaurant in a lofty converted 1920's church reminded us how romantic it is. We were equally charmed with a Southern-inspired roasted chicken and house-made chicken sausage over sweet corn-studded grits and spicy ratatouille relish, as well as a sophisticated dish of seared sesame-crusted ahi medallions served with a timbale of toothy edamame risotto and sauteed Asian vegetables. Polished, helpful service took the sting out of the pricey wine list. Bar.
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THE MERCURY
11909 Preston Rd, at Forest Ln (972-960-7774) Open Mon 11–9, Tue–Fri 11–10, Sat 5–11. Closed Sun. web site | map | reserve through OpenTable | latest review | access ++ | add to library |
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$$-$$$ |
Dallas
| American |

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(From March 2012) Chef Chris Ward keeps on keepin’ on, and to keep our culinary horizons fresh, we started off with the compressed watermelon salad, with prosciutto, heirloom tomatoes, and blue cheese; we admired the creativity, but the jury is still out on this one. We had no problems, though, with a generous veal piccata paired with an imaginative tomato-vegetable risotto. Service is always polished. Bar.
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RDG + BAR ANNIE
1800 Post Oak Blvd, at Ambassador Way (713-840-1111) Lunch Mon–Fri 11:30–2. Dinner Mon–Thur 6–10, Fri & Sat 6–10:30, Sun 5–9. Brunch Sun 11–3. Reservations recommended. web site | map | reserve through OpenTable | latest review | photo | access ++ | add to library |
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$$$-$$$$ |
Houston
| Southwestern / American |

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(From June 2012) This chic space attracts an equally stylish crowd that comes for fine service, generally successful fare, and to see and be seen. Our group fought over terrific nachos, the sturdy chips paved with refrieds, oniony steak, and lovely blobs of guacamole. Roasted cinnamon-laced pheasant proved pleasant, with its caramelized onions and chunky mushrooms, but a filet of snapper disappointed—fresh enough, but with a scant, bland ginger cream sauce. Its unexpected sidekick of Asian-style braised bok choy, however, was tender and tasty. Warm chocolate cake left a sweet impression. Bar.
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12 GAGE
Gage Hotel, 102 U.S. 90W (432-386-4205) Dinner Sun–Thur 6–9, Fri & Sat 6–10. map | latest review | access ++ | add to library |
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$$$ |
Marathon
| American |
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(From May 2012) One is tempted to sigh, “At last.” This Western-themed hotel restaurant has finally rounded up some really high-class grub. Ambitious starters deliver, from steak tartare to chorizo-spiked shrimp grits. We were particularly taken by a pork chop cut a little more than an inch thick, accompanied by an even tastier sauté of fingerling potatoes with pancetta and baby spinach. The kitchen even nailed the fig compote. A dessert of chile-flavored chocolate mousse on a layer of chocolate torte wasn’t big enough to share—not that we would have. Bar.
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51 FIFTEEN RESTAURANT AND LOUNGE
5115 Westheimer Rd (713-963-8067) Open Mon–Thur 11–10, Fri & Sat 11–11, Sun 11–4. map | reserve through OpenTable | latest review | access ++ | add to library |
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Houston
| American |
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(From January 2011) Landmark Hospitality Group’s takeover of the restaurant in the Galleria Saks store included a welcome redo, and the resulting white-to-beige space, featuring a lighted rose sculpture on one wall, should suit savvy shoppers who crave a break from the chase. For lunch we chose the special, halibut with crab and saffron risotto, along with a salad of greens and cantaloupe, but we found the chicken and wild mushroom crepes in basil-chardonnay sauce even more special. This quiet haven beats nearby fast-food joints, and it’s only a few dollars more. Bar.
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814: A TEXAS BISTRO
713 High (830-995-4990) Lunch Wed–Sun 11:30–2:30. Dinner Thur–Sat 6–9. Closed Mon & Tue. web site | map | latest review | photo | access + | add to library |
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Comfort
| American |
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Photograph by Bill Terry
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(From October 2011) This unaffected bistro serves memorable food in a charming historic building. We ate our way through the menu, starting with hot bread sticks (think mini baguettes), followed by barely breaded crab cakes and a bowl of tender mussels simmered in a spicy tomato broth (the better to facilitate the eating of more bread sticks). Entrées range from flawlessly cooked, fork-tender beef filet and tasty grilled snapper to succulent duck breast (though the skin could have been crisper). Beer & Wine.
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