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ATAMI STEAK & SUSHI
University Towne Center, 800 University, College Station, TX 77840 (979-268-8883) Open Mon–Thur 11–2:30 & 4:30–10, Fri 11–2:30 & 4:30–11, Sat noon–11, Sun noon–10. map | latest review | access ++ | add to library |
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$–$$$ |
Bryan
| Sushi |
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(From June 2011) The setting is sleek and the offerings creative, extensive, and, as you might ex-pect, expensive. Here’s a hint. Go for lunch, where you can find bargains like sushi com-bos, noodle bowls, and bento boxes; we like the beautifully presented crab tempura box, its moist crab and vegetables pairing nicely with a fresh spring roll, a delightful Cali-fornia roll, and steamed rice with just the right amount of “sticky.†Bar.
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GRAND CHINA BUFFET
5902 Broadway (409-741-9888) Open Sun–Thur 11–10, Fri & Sat 11–10:30. map | latest review | access ++ | add to library |
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Galveston
| Chinese / Sushi |
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(From May 2011) Sheriff’s deputies, cops, attorneys, and jurors are flocking to this attractive, family-run spot near the county justice center for classic Chinese dishes. Order from the menu or take a spin around the six sleek buffet tables; there are sushi and stir-fry bars as well. Everything is fresh and artfully seasoned. Liquor license pending.
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HAMACHI SUSHI
9861 Dyer (915-755-5180) Open Lunch Mon-Sat11-3, Dinner Mon-Thur 5-9, Fri & Sat 5-10. Closed Sun. map | latest review | access ++ | add to library |
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El Paso
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(From October 2011) The sushi bar dominates this space, and it should, because the sushi is excellent, made from fresh ingredients by nimble-fingered chefs who dice, slice, roll, and plate at lightning speed. Start with sashimi of yellowtail tuna and salmon, both flavorful and firm, then try the Crunch Roll, an interesting combo of California roll and shrimp tempura.
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KATSUYA HOUSTON
2800 Kirby Dr (713-590-2800) Lunch Mon-Fri 11:30-2:30. Dinner Sun-Wed 5-11, Thur-Sat 5-midnight. map | latest review | access ++ | add to library |
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$$-$$$$ |
Houston
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(From June 2012) L.A. glam oozes from West Ave’s new sushi palace, marked by designer Philippe Starck’s sleek black-and-white color scheme and giant blow-ups of luscious red lips and bedroom eyes. The good: fine miso-marinated cod and seared albacore with garlic-soy-lemon butter. The not so good: weak $15 cocktails, a very ordinary sushi sampler, and an amateurish waiter, all of which left us thinking that for now Kat’s scene may be its most reliable draw. Bar.
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KOBE
5025 U.S. 83W (956-687-8880) Open Sun–Thur 11–10:30, Fri & Sat 11:30–11. map | latest review | access ++ | add to library |
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$$-$$$ |
Mission
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(From July 2011) With sushi chefs imported from New York, this place is sure to entice the Valley’s lovers of Japanese food. Broken into three areas, the space has a lively hibachi area, a sushi bar with a cool urban vibe, and a separate bar with pumping house music. Start with the Wasabi Tuna Dumpling: Minced king crab and avocado get wrapped with a thin slice of tuna and placed atop a cucumber slice with an artful drizzle of wasabi mayo. Or the Ocean Mix Tartare, with king crab, salmon, ikura, and tomato pressed neatly into a tower. We also loved the Scorpion Roll, with soft-shell crab, shrimp tempura, and eel. The hibachi meals are fun too and best enjoyed with families or large group. Bar.
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KU SUSHI & JAPANESE CUISINE
11661 Preston Rd (214-891-0400) Lunch Mon–Sat 11–2:30. Dinner Sun–Thur 5–10, Fri & Sat 5–10:30. web site | map | latest review | access + | add to library |
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Dallas
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(From April 2012) An appetizer sampler of edamame, assorted tempura (shrimp, vegetable, and spicy calamari), and dumplings (pork gyoza and shrimp shumai) gives a good idea of the breadth of the menu (we liked everything except the heavy-handed tempura). As for sushi, the names of the “special rolls” are tame compared with some (Blazing 635, Hurricane, Cowboy), but the Love Love roll is as good as it sounds: little jewels of salmon, crab, and avocado wrapped with slices of tuna and soy paper. Beer, wine, & sake.
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LA LAGUNA MARISCOS & SUSHI
611 Shiloh (956-723-5050) Open Mon–Sat 11–10, Sun 11–6:30. web site | map | latest review | access ++ | add to library |
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$-$$ |
Laredo
| Seafood / Sushi |
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(From March 2012) A near Delphic oracle of fish tacos, this unassuming destination attracts devoted pilgrims. Here, marlin is mesquite-smoked and fused with mozzarella, then dotted with tomato and slathered with avocado before being folded into billowy, lightly grilled tortillas. The faithful also cleave to the Veracruz: battered cod dressed with a salsa-spiked mayo, verdant slices of avocado, and crunchy purple cabbage. The menu is rounded out with sushi rolls thick with cream cheese and various chile infusions, but they pale in comparison with the celestial tacos. Beer & wine.
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PELICAN CLUB
914 Tarpon, Port Aransas (361-749-4888) Dinner Wed & Thur 5:30–10, Fri-Sun 5:30-10:30 (Mon & Tue reserved for private parties). Closed Mon & Tue. web site | map | latest review | access ++ | add to library |
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$$$ |
Port Aransas
| Sushi / Seafood |
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(From May 2012) Here we confidently choose from an array of fresh, well-prepared seafood (with sides that get as much attention in the kitchen as the entrees), and we have yet to be disappointed. Scallops beurre noir (sautéed in browned garlic butter) served over toast points started the meal well, followed by a crisp, cold Ceasar salad and mixed baby greens with roasted pecans and crumbled Roquefort. Entrees of cornmeal-crusted flounder and grilled black drum, both served with a medley of tender vegetables, fulfilled our high expectations. Choose a seat in the bustling main dining room, the quieter room upstairs, or the covered outside deck over the water. Service is helpful and friendly but not intrusive. Bar.
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POSH SUSHI & GRILL
701 W. Del Mar Blvd, at W. Village Blvd (956-753-7674) Open 7 days 11–11. web site | map | latest review | access ++ | add to library |
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$-$$ |
Laredo
| Eclectic / Sushi |
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(From May 2012) While border sushi is seldom served without a marbling of cream cheese and a garland of chipotle, there’s an inventive menu in play here. If raw fish is not your thing, weigh in on Argentine-style empanadas or a beefsteak glazed with cabernet sauce. We especially love the red curry–bathed Thai chicken, crisscrossed with a lazy drizzle of coconut milk. Talk about something for everyone. Beer & wine.
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SUSHI MADRE
401 W. Saunders, at Barcelona (956-726-5509) Open Mon–Thur 11-10, Fri & Sat 11–11, Sun noon–6. web site | map | latest review | access ++ | add to library |
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$-$$ |
Laredo
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(From March 2012) The clever name has street cred that’s making this “Guadalajara-style” restaurant a growing local favorite. Get your rolls in green or red options (that’s avocado- or crab-coated, not anything remotely New Mexican). Breaded versions include La Loca (which marries jack cheese, avocado, and zucchini with chicken) and the Chicken and Shrimp Roll (with grilled asparagus and avocado). Hamachi is presented sashimi-style, fixed with fiery jalapeños, while crisp-edged quesadillas are fat with shrimp basking in a sweet chipotle cream salsa. And, yes indeed, we’ll take our michelada exotically thickened with mango. Beer & wine.
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