Houston

(From December 2009) When we need stress relief, we head for Backstreet. Sipping cocktails, noshing on house-made chips with a gorgeous medley of heirloom tomatoes, roasted corn, cucumbers, and avocado, and savoring a bowl of soothing poblano-corn chowder, we actually considered repeating the first course. Instead, we moved on happily to pan-seared snapper with jumbo lump crabmeat and an order of exceptionally good chicken enchila-das. Backstreet just never disappoints. Bar.

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(From December 2009) This sleek spot may offer the trendiest dining on what has become Houston’s restaurant row. A stylish crowd packs the main room and balcony lounge, sipping their cocktails as they scan Benjy Levit’s well-conceived menu. A perfect tomato salad and crab gratin preceded a robust eight-ounce filet sided with mashed potatoes and asparagus. Scallops with Jerusalem artichokes also made a fine entrée. Don’t rush out the door before polishing off some of the tres leches cake. Bar.

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(From December 2009) Many a wine bar serves cold cuts from the fridge and calls itself a restaurant. Make no mistake: This cool, art-filled space near the hot Washington Avenue scene is serious about food. Take the arugula salad with corn, tomato, and shallot vinaigrette. Or the roasted beets with blue cheese, walnut vinaigrette, and a balsamic-citrus glaze. One of us went with the namesake burger—great beef, Gruyère, and smoked bacon—while the other ordered the fish of the day, a glossy pan-roasted red snapper over truffle polenta. Wines by the bottle are a bargain—by the glass, not so much.

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(From December 2009) This casual little establishment is the latest production of Lynette Hawkins, of La Mora fame. Depending on your schedule and appetite, you can order cafeteria-style or from the menu, get your food to go or have a leisurely meal at a table in the dining room, bar, or patio. There’s an extensive menu of panini, crostini, salads, and pastas, none of which have disappointed so far. Artist Rachel Hecker’s mural makes a stunning addition to what might otherwise have been stock-in-trade restaurant decor. Beer & wine.

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(From December 2009) We visited right about the time chef Jason Gould and owner Scott Tycer were parting company in a public spat (Tycer also owns and is chef at Textile.) That said, we liked our plump mussels, though we can never decide whether white wine or Stella Artois makes a better base for the broth (jazzed with tarragon and garlic). Other favorites were the smoked pork chop with herb bread pudding and apple cider sauce and the salads (especially any with a poached egg on top). The sprawling, brick-lined dining room features an open kitchen and a huge chalkboard listing available wines. Bar.

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(From May 2009) The famed musical venue has successfully planted itself in Houston. Floor-to-ceiling folk art pays homage to the blues, while great music plays at a tolerable level—and the food is pretty good too. From the Southern-inspired menu, our favorite choices were awesome sweet potato fries and an earthy gumbo with smoked turkey and shrimp. Also noteworthy was the signature “Voodoo shrimp” with sweet rosemary cornbread. On the other hand, the pizza was standard, the pulled pork a tad chewy, and the nicely seasoned grilled salmon much better than its bed of so-so jambalaya “risotto.” Bar.

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(From June 2009) Hip and contemporary, H&H dished up a lovely dinner despite timing miscues and blips in execution (like a bland noodle salad, despite the presence of a truffle ranch dressing). While eyeing our neighbors’ grilled flatbread with arugula and Pecorino, we dined well. We started with a sweet onion tart with pancetta and Gorgonzola and a cup of creamy tomato-basil soup, then graduated to a fine beef tenderloin with sautéed baby spinach and roasted root vegetables. Note: The restaurant’s breakfast menu looks fabulous. Bar.

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(From December 2009) We gave praise for our survival after being seated in the choir loft of this beautifully remodeled old church during a violent electrical storm. And we thanked the kitchen for one of the best salads ever, a special of heir-loom tomatoes—all colors, sizes, shapes, and flavors—with avocado, pecorino cheese, little piles of herbs, and citrus vinaigrette. Gratitude was also expressed for the corn chowder studded with bacon and potatoes, the perfectly roasted chicken with cilantro-chicken sausage and grits, and the hefty slabs of sashimi-grade grilled tuna. Bar.

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(From December 2009) Robert Del Grande’s new venture involves a sleek downstairs bar and a classy upstairs dining room, with rustic redwood trim, ornately framed mirrors, well-spaced tables, and an open kitchen. The menu’s got both new (circa 2009) and classic Del Grande offerings (dating back to around 1984). We mixed and matched, blending old favorites like the wild mushroom soup with smoked duck with some great new dishes, such as a wood-grilled New York steak, a fine chunk of meat (that didn’t benefit, unfortunately, from the accompanying flavorless bacon-wrapped fingerling potatoes). Bar.

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(From April 2009) On the corner of Rusk and Fannin, within the refurbished Club Quarters Hotel, we discovered this pleasant Grey Poupon–toned dining room and bar. Part of the District 7 Grill family, it turns out made-to-order salads, pastas, and sandwiches seven days a week, nearly around the clock. We’d stop by anytime for the much-touted muffuletta, stuffed with an addictive mix of olives, and the perfectly seared medium-rare tuna slices atop the generous romaine and pecan salad. Bar.

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