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KATZ 21 STEAK & SPIRITS
317 N. Mesquite (361-884-1815) Lunch Mon–Fri 11–1:30. Dinner Mon–Thur 5–10, Fri & Sat 5–11. Closed Sun. web site | map | reserve a table | latest review | access + | add to library | |
$$-$$$ |
American / Steaks |
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(From March 2009) On a recent return to this congenial downtown spot, we forewent the pleasure of the seafood and veal specials that invariably tempt us in favor of the featured steak offerings. And after sampling the rich tenderloin medallions, the juicy filet, and the full-flavored New York strip, we concluded that, as advertised, chef George Elizondo does indeed know his red meat. And that’s not all: Salads were crisp and cold; vegetables were thoughtfully prepared; and, as usual, the signature Katz Meow appetizer was an irresistible combination of sautéed shrimp and crabmeat served on toast points and dressed with béarnaise. Bar.
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REPUBLIC OF TEXAS BAR & GRILL
Omni Corpus Christi Hotel, 900 N. Shoreline Blvd (361-886-3515) Dinner Mon–Sat 5:30–10:30, Sun 5:30–9. web site | map | reserve a table | latest review | access ++ | add to library | |
$$$-$$$$ |
American / Steaks |
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(From May 2009) Chef Francisco Jiménez and his team of excellent servers deliver food worthy of this showplace setting, which is quite possibly the most elegant dining room in South Texas. Although the menu displays a serious commitment to red meat and game, we were delighted with the seafood, starting with the luxe Iberia Bolsa de Mar: puff pastry purses filled with lobster, scallops, crab, and Manchego cheese and served with a champagne aioli. What followed kept pace: peppercorn-crusted ahi tuna in a creamy green curry and pan-seared filets of local flounder with a mildly picante jalapeño butter sauce. Bar.
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GREEN PAPAYA
4455 S. Padre Island Dr (361-851-0644) Lunch Mon–Sat 11–3. Dinner Mon–Thur 5–9, Fri & Sat 5–10. Closed Sun. map | latest review | access + | add to library | |
$–$$ |
Asian |
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(From December 2009) Constantly upgrading their menu, service, and decor, Henry and Kathy Ngo have turned this nondescript spot into a jewel. Outstanding is their platter-size rice-flour crepe stuffed with shrimp, chicken, and bean sprouts. Equally delightful was a blackboard special of honey walnut shrimp, the shellfish lightly crusted and flash-fried, then served with walnuts in a honey-based glaze. Also notable: sweet potato flan (more the texture of a pudding than the silky Mexican dessert) complemented by a coconut milk–tapioca sauce. Beer & wine.
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JOE COTTEN’S BARBECUE
U.S. 77, Robstown (361-767-9973) Cash Only. Open Tue–Sat 10–9:30. Closed Sun & Mon. map | latest review | access + | add to library | |
$–$$ Cash only (ATM inside) |
Barbecue |
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(From November 2008) A regional landmark and barbecue mecca, this popular place has had sixty-something years to perfect its formula: Do a few things exceedingly well. Ordering is simple; choose any combination of succulent pit-smoked meat (brisket, sausage, pork ribs), and your choice will arrive quickly on layers of butcher paper with a cup of pinto beans and a slice each of tomato, onion, dill pickle, jalapeño, and wheat and white bread. (The mildly sweet sauce is mostly superfluous.) Beer & wine.
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CAFE AEBY
The Village, 3815 S. Alameda (361-225-0329) Open Tue–Sat 11–2 & 5:30–9:30. Closed Sun & Mon. map | latest review | access + | add to library | |
$$-$$$ |
Eclectic |
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(From March 2009) Cafe Aeby always impresses with its high level of service and food that’s innovative and appealingly presented. A salad of roasted beets and organic greens comes embellished with candied walnuts, blue cheese, and turmeric vinegar; delicious poached salmon rests on a bed of paper-thin slices of marinated cucumber; hearty Italian sausage with a grainy mustard sauce sits atop sauerkraut and puréed potatoes. Warning: Call ahead to be sure the restaurant is open for dinner, as unannounced closings for private events are common. Beer & wine.
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DRAGONFLY
13925 S. Padre Island Dr. (361-949-2224) Open Tue–Thur 11–2 & 4–9, Fri 11-2 & 4-10, Sat 11–10. Closed Sun & Mon. map | latest review | access ++ | add to library | |
$$–$$$ |
Eclectic |
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(From December 2009) Everything is a bit quirky here—except for the food, which always makes the trek to the island worth the effort. If your party is small, expect to share a table with fellow admirers of chef Dominique Cordier. The star dish on our visit was a special of wild salmon, perfectly grilled and accompanied by three large shrimp and garlicky green beans. We added the signature potato puffs—feather-light whipped potatoes encased in a thin, nutmeg-flavored crust—and the crab cakes, which were, as always, Chesapeake quality. Beer & wine.
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LUCIANO’S
1821 S. Alameda (361-882-3191) Lunch Mon–Fri 11:15–1:45. Dinner Mon–Sat 5:15–9:45. Closed Sun. web site | map | latest review | access ++ | add to library | |
$$ |
Italian |
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(From September 2008) Before his retirement, Joe Luciano cultivated a loyal following for his warm hospitality and dependable Italian dishes. Now his grandson carries the torch, having revived the name and recipes at a nearby location. We found notable among the old standards the baked lasagne, the stracciatella soup with spinach and Parmesan, and the generous antipasti platter of meats, cheeses, peppers, and olives. Beer & wine.
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MAMMA MIA’S
128 N. Mesquite (361-883-3773) Cash Only. Dinner Tue–Sat 5–10. Closed Sun & Mon. Cash & checks only. web site | map | latest review | photo | access ++ | add to library | |
$$–$$$ |
Italian |
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(From December 2009) The Delzotto brothers—gregarious Marino at the door and brilliant Gianni at the stove—preside over a warm, informal atmosphere that nevertheless offers white-linen service and beautifully prepared seafood and northern Italian standards. Our table was graced with a well-seared filet of salmon with garlic-sautéed spinach and two linguine dishes, one with flounder in a delicate sauce of lemon, but-ter, and white wine and the other with shrimp and mushrooms in a creamy, tomatoey sauce. The Delzottos have enjoyed years of popularity, for good reason. The cooking is notable, the wine afford-able, and the portions more than generous. Beer & wine.
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SULTAN MEDITERRANEAN CUISINE
The Market at Timbergate, 6646 S. Staples (361-993-6100) Open Mon–Thur 11–9, Fri & Sat 11–10. Closed Sun. web site | map | latest review | access + | add to library | |
$$ |
Mediterranean |
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(From October 2009) Fady Shaheen and Mireya Tobar-Shaheen’s amazingly well-priced strip center restaurant now rivals some of the best dining places in the area, with admirable attention to detail and presentation. A tradi-tional parsley-flecked tabouleh salad was a notable overture to a top-notch entrée: a snapper filet lightly breaded, pan-fried, and served over a trophy-deserving house-made black pepper pasta. Even after all that, a strawberry-banana bread pudding disappeared in the blink of an eye. Beer & wine.
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HESTER’S CAFE & COFFEE BAR
1714 S. Alameda, at Six Points, entrance on Palmero behind Bleu Frog Mercantile (361-885-0558) Open Mon–Sat 7–3. Closed Sun. web site | map | latest review | access + | add to library | |
$–$$ |
New American |
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(From June 2009) Hester and Jason Rodriguez have perfected their formula, judging by the daily lines of regulars. High on our list of recommendations are the hearty Swinney Switch salad (black-bean-and-corn salsa over roasted turkey, smoked bacon, red-chile pecans, and avocado on a bed of fresh greens); the bacon-cheddar scone with eggs, applewood-smoked bacon, and rosemary potatoes; and the peppery bean and vegetable soup.
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