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MULBERRY

360 Nueces (512-320-0297)
Dinner 7 days 5–11 (bar open till 1 a.m. Sun–Thur, 2 a.m Fri & Sat). Brunch Sat & Sun 10-4.
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$$-$$$

Austin

American /
Wine Bar

(From January 2009) This newish wine bar is small (intimate is in), sleek (mod is cool), and stylish (Michael Hsu, of Olivia fame, is the designer). As we watched the smartly dressed crowd of twentysomethings catching up on the day, we noshed on meatballs in a delicious broth tinged with white wine, lemon, and bay leaves. We also approved of the braised veal atop creamy polenta with fennel-apple salad (though a tad bit-ter), and a smooth white Bordeaux left us glowing. Kudos to the staff for wine knowledge and friendliness. But beware if you sit at the table in the back corner (the one with the derrière-numbing benches), because you could die over there before a server notices. Beer & wine.

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WINSLOW'S WINE CAFE

4101 Camp Bowie Blvd (817-546-6843)
Dinner Mon–Thur 5–10, Fri & Sat 5–11. Closed Sun.
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$$

Fort Worth

Italian /
Wine Bar

 

(From February 2009) A handsome redo of the filling station where many a student pumped up his bicycle tires en route to junior high allowed us to enjoy a light dinner and try a couple of almost thirty wines by the glass. Lobster-fennel ravioli, shrimp cocktail with hearts of palm, cheeses and charcuterie—all are presented with flair. The imaginative wood-fired pizzas are quite the sensation; the Jim Bowie combines barbecued chicken, smoked cheddar, jalapeños, and bacon, while the spinach pizza has goat cheese, caramelized onions, and béchamel. Beer & wine.

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LA DIOSA CELLARS

901 17th (806-744-3600)
Open Tue-Fri 11-midnight, Sat noon-midnight. Closed Sun & Mon.
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$$

Lubbock

Mediterranean /
Wine Bar

 

(From March 2009) The vibrant colors of Mexico complement the menu of this charmingly eclectic winery and tapas bar. We sank into an overstuffed couch and watched our table fill up with a tantalizing array of small plates. Crostini spread with onion marmalade, lime-drizzled shrimp, and garlicky albóndigas were just the beginning. We followed those with a flavorful chicken curry salad and an amazing pizza fresca with mango, red onion, and crushed walnuts snuggled into a layer of warm Brie. Wine.

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FLEMING'S PRIME STEAKHOUSE & WINE BAR

The Quarry shopping center, 255 E. Basse Rd (210-824-9463)
Dinner Mon–Thur 5–10, Fri & Sat 5–11, Sun 5–9. Reservations recommended.
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$$$

San Antonio

Steaks /
Wine Bar

 

(From December 2008) There may be a more tender steak than the Beef Flemington, but we’ve never sampled it. Ensconced as it is in puff pastry and served with duxelles and a fragrant Madeira sauce, it’s hard to see why anyone would order anything else here. Yet there are excellent Australian lamb chops and, for those who must, scallops in lobster sauce. At the very least, start with the charcuterie, a selection of cheeses, cured meats, and olives. A clublike atmosphere (marred a bit by frenetic music) combines with professional service and a long wine list to create a top-notch steakhouse. Bar.

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20NINE

Quarry Market, 255 E. Basse Rd (210-798-9463)
Open Mon–Thur 3:30–11, Fri & Sat 3:30–midnight, Sun 3:30-10.
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$$

San Antonio

Wine Bar

 

(From December 2009) Lest you suspect the name comes from its cozy Alamo Heights location (zip 78209), check the mural: 29 is Napa Valley’s main road, and this wine bar/bistro makes the most of the theme. Our salad was studded with fresh cherries, pepitas, cubes of Swiss, and tender chicken dressed in a tasty sherry vinaigrette. Even better was the duck breast confit, with a fall-off-the-bone leg and thigh, perfectly paired with smoky bacon-flavored green lentils. Lots of gourmet pizzas too (black fig and goat cheese, for one). Beer & wine.

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CRU WINE BAR

The Shops at Legacy, 7201 Bishop Rd, Plano (972-312-9463)
Open Mon–Fri 2–midnight, Sat 2–1 a.m., Sun 11–midnight.
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$$$

Dallas

Wine Bar

 

(From August 2008) Too warm to sit outside? Try the wine room; intimate and lit by candles, it’s a nice spot for the likes of perfect pepper-crusted, velvety ahi tuna with a tangy relish of pickled red onion and cucumber and a blood orange vinaigrette. Pan-seared sea scallops took our breath away—succulent, dressed with sun-dried-tomato vinaigrette and served alongside spinach and baby shrimp risotto. We cleaned every morsel off that plate! Beer & wine.

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DALI WINE BAR & CELLAR

One Arts Plaza, 1722 Routh (469-385-9360)
Open Mon & Sat 2:30–midnight, Tue–Fri 11:30–10:30, Sun 2:30–10.
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$$–$$$

Dallas

Wine Bar /
Seafood

 

(From December 2009) Salmon and strawberries—sound familiar? Dr. Perricone, of “10 Superfoods” fame, would certainly approve of our lunch here, which began with one and ended with the other. Said fish, pan-seared and dabbed with radish and cucumber relish, was surrounded with the tiniest, crispiest, tastiest pommes frites we’ve ever eaten. The dynamic duo left us satisfied but not stuffed. We wouldn’t have thought of grilling strawberries and pairing them with chocolate gelato and then dusting the whole thing with praline bits, but it certainly worked. The wine list is mind-boggling; we defy you not to find something appealing. Bar.

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MAX’S WINE DIVE

The 50 Best Burgers 2009 »
4720 Washington Ave, at Shepherd (713-880-8737)
Open Tue & Wed 4–midnight, Thur–Sat 4–2 a.m., Sun 11–10. Closed Mon.
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$$–$$$

Houston

Wine Bar /
Eclectic

 

(From August 2009) It arrives at your table on a brioche bun with Belletoile triple-cream brie melting by the second. The ensuing food orgy will be something you remember for the rest of your life. On your deathbed (to which, unfortunately, you will be hastened by this burger), you will find yourself recalling the meat juices that oozed From the patty, through the cheese, and soaked drop by drop into the fluffy, sweet bread. If your doctor has a fit, tell him that Kobe beef is supposed to actually be good for your heart. Triple-cream brie, however...

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MAX’S WINE DIVE

The 50 Best Burgers 2009 »
207 San Jacinto Blvd (512-904-0111)
Open Mon–Wed 4–midnight, Thur–Sat 11–2 a.m., Brunch Sun 11–3.
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$$

Austin

Wine Bar /
Eclectic

 

(From December 2009) A starter of falling-off-the-bone baby back ribs—glazed in hoisin and glitzy with cilantro and chile sauce—ignited our taste buds at this stylishly converted warehouse beloved of the downtown profes-sional set. By comparison, the buffalo sliders seemed bland, and we snoozed through the trio of fried green tomatoes, pickles, and jalapeño slices. But we all—including the quasi-vegetarian at the table—snapped to over the silky richness of cola-glazed pork belly flanked by sauerkraut and warm potato salad. The ultrarich mac and cheese almost did us in. Happy hour is popular, and l-o-u-d. Beer & wine.

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SO VINO BISTRO & WINE BAR

507 Westheimer Rd (713-524-1000)
Dinner Mon–Thur 5–10, Fri & Sat 5–11. Closed Sun. Reservations accepted. $$-$$$
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$$-$$$

Houston

Wine Bar

 

(From June 2008) Sleek and sassy, with stone walls and handsome wood accents, So Vino makes a good bet for sipping wine at the bar or enjoying a food and wine pairing. The two highlights of a recent meal? A salad with roasted beets and goat cheese and short ribs braised in Shiraz (served with Gruyère polenta). We also liked a tomato salad with burrata, basil, olive oil, and lemon peel. Only the mussels in a spicy broth sided by a polenta cake and mushroom ragoût disappointed—entirely too much going on there for us. Beer & wine.

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