Marathon

(From March 2009) It was offal! And we loved it! The seared veal sweetbreads were revelatory, with their sauce of cherry tomatoes, capers, and balsamic onions. And don’t even get us started on the pan-roasted chicken livers with bacon and spinach. In keeping with the wild-game theme (think moose rack chandeliers) was the peppery antelope with truffled mushroom demi-glace, which inspired ear-to-ear smiles all around. The play of flavors in this wonderful meal—what is that spice? Is that cinnamon?—was the dominant topic of conversation at the table. Bar.

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(From January 2009) It was offal! And we loved it! The seared veal sweetbreads were revelatory, with their sauce of cherry tomatoes, capers, and balsamic onions. And don’t even get us started on the pan-roasted chicken livers with bacon and spinach. In keeping with the wild-game theme (think moose rack chandeliers) was the peppery antelope with truffled mushroom demi-glace, which inspired ear-to-ear smiles all around. The play of flavors in this wonderful meal—what is that spice? Is that cinnamon?—was the dominant topic of conversation at the table. Bar.

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(From August 2009) Ample, rich, and downright carnal, this burger is not so much a meal as a gastronomic challenge to the entire modern cattle industry. About two bites into it we started to question the wisdom of exterminating the native herds of American Bison and repopulating the plains with cows. The tender, less fatty buffalo seemed sweeter than beef, and the taste (order it medium-rare) melded perfectly with melted Gruyère, sautéed mushrooms, and a superbly yeasty bun. It arrives at your table looking a tad overstyled, but the first brawny bite will excuse its citified appearance.

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