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GRAPPINO DI NINO
2817 W. Dallas
(713-528-7002)
Dinner Mon–Thur 4:30–10, Fri & Sat 4:30–11. Closed Sun.
web site | map | latest review | photo | access ++ |  add to library |
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$$ |
Italian |
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(From March 2011) Cheers to the Vincent Mandola family for featuring a small-plates menu and a wide range of Italian libations in their West Dallas backyard patio-bar, one of our town’s most pleasant alfresco spots. A friendly waiter said we’d love the warm arancine (fried risotto balls with a core of melting cheese), and he was right. Same for the crab claws in garlic-lemon butter. The Mini Vinnie, a portion of veal par-migiano, plus mezzaluna pasta stuffed with chicken and ricotta, completed our meal—save for a digestivo, of course. Grappa, anyone? Bar. |
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VINOTECA POSCOL
1609 Westheimer Rd.
(713-529-2797)
Dinner Tue–Thur 5–10 (light food until 11), Fri & Sat 5–11 (light food until midnight), Sun 5–10. Closed Mon.
map | latest review | photo | access ++ | add to library |
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Italian |
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(From January 2011) Ultra-casual Poscol invites noshing and sampling from the wine list in the company of good friends, and we did just that, our bruschette and impressive array of meats and cheeses setting off our rich red wines perfectly. Unfortunately the rest of the meal proved less successful; we liked our braised pork in a red wine–plum sauce with goat cheese mashed potatoes, but tripletail with shrimp, artichokes, and rapini was bland. And our romaine, walnut, and pecorino salad had only a trace of dressing. Beer & wine. |
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DA MARCO
1520 Westheimer Rd, at Ridgewood
(713-807-8857)
Lunch Tue–Fri 11:30–2. Dinner Tue–Thur 5:30–10, Fri & Sat 5:30–11. Closed Sun & Mon. Reservations recommended.
web site | map | reserve through OpenTable | latest review | photo | access ++ | add to library |
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(From May 2011) The 48-ounce porterhouse made the guys in our group very happy. The distaff side of the party acquitted itself admirably with a couple of items from the blackboard menu—scallops with a tangerine mostarda, snapper ravioli with herbs and pecorino—plus a hefty veal chop with black truffle risotto. Prices are not modest, but for our money the best Italian food in town—indeed, some of the best food, period—can be found in this cozy cottage. Bar. |
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DOLCE VITA
500 Westheimer Rd
(713-520-8222)
Open Sun & Tue–Thur noon–10, Fri & Sat noon–11. Closed Mon.
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Italian |
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(From May 2011) We lazed on the terrace of this old house on a recent evening, sipping Italian wines and feasting on shaved brussels sprouts with pecorino and paper-thin prosciutto; orecchiette spiked with escarole and sweet sausage; and a thin-crusted pizza loaded with tomato, mozzarella, prosciutto, and arugula. We had a minor quibble with tough paccheri pasta in a lackluster tomato sauce, but overall we were a happy bunch. Bar. |
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HUBBELL & HUDSON MARKET AND BISTRO
24 Waterway Ave, The Woodlands
(281-203-5600)
Open Mon–Thur 11–10, Fri 11–11, Sat 9–11, Sun 9–9. Brunch Sat & Sun 9–3.
web site | map | latest review | photo | access ++ | add to library |
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$$-$$$ |
American /
Italian |
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(From March 2011) Attached to its own upscale grocery, the bistro gets fresh fare right on site and prepares it well. Add a sleek, wood-accented setting, good service, and convenient hours (especially for the nearby concert venue), and it’s no surprise that the crowds keep coming. One of us ate lightly with a luscious tarte flambée (think smoked bacon and crème fraiche) and a crab cake with cayenne rémoulade, while the other went for an oak-grilled 12-ounce strip with a green-peppercorn rub and sides of frites and asparagus. Bar |
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SAPORI RISTORANTE ITALIANO
12225 Westheimer Rd
(281-496-4941)
Open Mon & Tue 11–9, Wed & Thur 11–10, Fri & Sat 11–11. Closed Sun. Reservations recommended.
web site | map | latest review | access ++ | add to library |
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$$-$$$ |
Italian /
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(From November 2011) Fans of Simposio’s are heading west for chef Alberto Baffoni’s new digs in Royal Oaks. The convivial atmosphere belies its strip-center location, and meals worthy of special occasions are standard fare. We started with a fetching combo of peppery arugula, paper-thin beef carpaccio, and shaved Parmesan, then followed that with deliciously fresh strozzapreti pasta with broccoli and pancetta. Grilled red snapper with rosemary-scented roasted potatoes and sautéed green beans, zucchini, and asparagus was equally lovely. Bar. |
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TONY MANDOLA’S
1212 Waugh Dr
(713-528-3474)
Open Mon–Thur 11–10, Fri & Sat 11–11, Sun 5–9.
web site | map | latest review | access ++ | add to library |
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$$-$$$ |
Italian |
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(From January 2012) In spacious, pleasantly contemporary new digs, Tony Mandola’s is still packing in the older River Oaks crowd as well as Montrose-area locals. Our recent meal started with lovely oysters on the half shell and a lively Sicilian salad with red cabbage and artichoke hearts. One of us went with the Fusilli Philly, a nice combination of pasta, grilled chicken, and a sweet cherry tomato sauce. The other struck it rich with the Salmon Sophia: grilled wild salmon, perfectly moist, topped with lump crab and an avocado-dill relish. |
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TRATTORIA IL MULINO
Westin Houston Memorial City, 945 Gessner Rd
(832-358-0600)
Dinner Sun–Wed 6:30–10, Thur–Sat 6:30–11. Reservations recommended.
map | latest review | access ++ | add to library |
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$$-$$$ |
Italian |
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(From July 2011)
New York’s celebrated Il Mulino has opened a trattoria-style outpost, attracting a respectable crowd to the spanking new Westin hotel in Memorial City. The ambience is tailored and crisp, softened by an amber glow from the backlit bar and the overhead lamps. From the classic Italian menu we enjoyed a lovely meal of mussels in white wine garlic sauce, hearty cavatelli with nutty ricotta salata, and rustic risotto with clams, scallops, and squid. Nice touches included complimentary antipasti, to start, and grappa, to end. Bar.
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QUATTRO
Four Seasons Hotel Houston, 1300 Lamar
(713-276-4700)
Open Mon–Fri 6:30 a.m.–10 p.m., Sat & Sun 7–10.
web site | map | reserve through OpenTable | latest review | photo | access ++ | add to library |
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$$$-$$$$ |
New American /
Italian |
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(From January 2012) Four of us shared several plates and comfortable conversation in this gracious dining room overlooking the George R. Brown Convention Center. Charcuterie, olives, and cheeses made a good start, along with a light salad of mesclun and roasted plums with a lemon dressing. Both a bianca pizza with mozzarella, roasted vegetables, and pesto and a Texas (and Texas-size) pork chop satisfied. Only a seafood risotto failed, with its bland flavor and mac and cheese texture. Bar. |
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ARTURO’S UPTOWN ITALIANO
1180-1 Uptown Park Blvd
(713-621-1180)
Open Mon–Wed 11–10, Thur–Sat 11–11. Closed Sun.
web site | map | latest review | access ++ | add to library |
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$$$–$$$$ |
Italian |
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(From December 2010) Peach-toned walls give a flattering glow to the interior of Arturo Boada and Bill Sadler’s Uptown Park restaurant, but its columned porch beckoned us on a mild evening. Two great salads kept our attention: a caprese of yellow and red grape tomatoes, mozzarella, capers, oregano, and basil and an inspired mix of baby greens, walnuts, pancetta, orange slices, and goat cheese. Sonia’s Ravioli, stuffed with chicken and porcini mushrooms and served with white wine–basil sauce, proved delicious and beyond rich, but it didn’t preclude our sharing a slice of tiramisu. Bar. |
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