(From October 2008) In a bare-bones storefront tucked behind a service station at the crossroads of Montrose and West­heimer, personable owner/waiter Brooks Bassler serves up Cajun favorites at all hours. His fine seafood gumbo was actually upstaged by (surprise!) a peppy vegetable bisque. Crusty, bursting-at-the-seams po’boys (roast beef, oysters, shrimp) had us vowing to try more NOLA standards, like grillades and grits. Not to mention Abita beer and Barq’s root beer. Beer, wine, & daiquiris.

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(From March 2010) While we’re waiting around for Brennan’s to reopen, we can satisfy our craving for turtle soup—and much more—at this elegant marble and wood space in CityCentre. We raved over a slew of plump black mussels with tomatoes and a fennel-and-saffron rouille croustade (a steal at $12), New Orleans–style barbecue shrimp on a buttermilk-and-rosemary biscuit with Shiner Bock “beer cream,” and a black-eyed pea–crusted rack of lamb with cabernet lamb jus. Only a shrimp remoulade salad lacked luster, with its ho-hum greens and five lonely shrimp. Bar.

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(From April 2009) Taken out of its natural environment, New Orleans food often lacks the fresh bite typical of Creole and Cajun cuisine. This relocated restaurant (formerly Bourbon Street Café, in Castle Hills) proves the exception. Two standards—the chicken-and-sausage jambalaya and the crawfish-and-shrimp étouffée—have an unmistakable authenticity about them: carefully prepared fish and fowl, a rich roux for the étouffée, a fine balance of fresh peppers, celery, and onion for the jambalaya. Competent service and a quiet dining room. Bar.

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(From September 2009) Tucked away in a small shopping strip is this family-owned, no-nonsense Kosher eatery. We dropped in one morning for a huge omelet with mushrooms, onion, corn, black olives, cheese, and a confetti of green, yellow, and red peppers. Wonderful additions to the plate included slices of fresh tomato and crispy hash browns. We finished it all off with some of the fluffy house-made cheese-cake.

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(From July 2009) Casual to the max—a mounted moose head sports Christmas lights—this friendly, 18-year-old spot offers “foods from sunny latitudes,” like nachos, tacos, and burgers. We had the Cozumel shrimp, sautéed with lime and garlic and served with melted butter and sides of steamed new potatoes, rice, and corn. And they actually threw in a bowl of shrimp chowder. Key lime pie is made in-house; it’s not too sweet, not too tart, and plenty good. Bar.

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(From March 2010) We’ve lost count of the restaurants that have failed in this sleek museum-district space, but Claire Smith’s popular new venture could break the jinx. A sculptural “canopy” of wood slats hangs from the high ceilings and photo-murals of live oaks accent the room dividers. Fine start-ers included grilled asparagus (with creamy wild mushrooms and shards of Parmesan) and a hefty, meaty crab cake resting on fried green tomatoes. Very good, too, were the rack of lamb, crusted with herbs, and the simple roasted chicken with mustardy mashed potatoes. Bar.

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(From May 2009) For a great Southern meal (and perhaps a paranormal experience or two), step into this lovely 1895 Victorian home on Water Street. Lightly battered fried dill pickles with homemade ranch will prepare you for the Cajun-leaning menu. We tried the blackened catfish filet, topped with creole sauce and served with black-eyed peas and hushpuppies. A friendly spirit suggested we order the fried ice cream for dessert: a dip of cinnamon rolled in graham cracker crumbs, fried, and topped with hot fudge and whipped cream. After dinner, have a look around the place—if you dare.

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(From January 2009) At this quaint downtown spot we started with puff pastry and Gulf shrimp drizzled with spicy garlic butter. We found ourselves grinning like the Cheshire Cat when our radiatore pasta arrived, tossed with applewood-smoked salmon, tomato, and capers in a white wine–dill cream sauce. Our companion was equally happy with the mixed grill of smoked quail, espresso-rubbed pork tenderloin, and house-made sausage with a vanilla-mushroom cream sauce. If you have the willpower, leave room for the walnut chocolate torte topped with a warm chocolate glaze. Bar.

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(From November 2009) This New Orleans–style restaurant offers great food and excellent service, despite the crowds. The oysters were magnificent, as was the Daddy’s platter, which comes with a pound of boiled shrimp, two pounds of boiled crawfish, and one pound of sausage, with sides of corn and potatoes. We also ordered a side of fried okra, because we had eyes bigger than our stomachs. Bar.

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(From March 2009) We have been assured by genuine Cajuns that Dudley’s, a Longview spot that has specialized in seafood for the past sixteen years, is the real thing. We heartily concur after indulging in spicy étouffée, fried crawfish, and fresh, peppery coleslaw on a recent visit to the homey, lively diner. Beer & wine.

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