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TOKYO ONE
2938 W. Sam Houston Pkwy (713-785-8899) Lunch Mon–Fri 11–2:30, Sat & Sun 11–3. Dinner Mon–Thur 5:30–9:30, Fri 5:30–10, Sat 5–10, Sun 5–9:30. Reservations accepted for 6 or more. map | latest review | access ++ | add to library | |
$$ |
Japanese / Seafood |
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(From August 2008) We are not buffet fans, so we were pleasantly surprised by this friendly all-you-can-eat spot. We spent most of our appetite at the salad bar, sampling squid, seaweed, kimchi, tako (octopus), and jellyfish salads—all very good. Skeptically, we piled our plates with tuna, snapper, salmon, yellowtail, and octopus among dozens of sashimi and sushi offerings, and found each tasty and fresh. However, shrimp tempura, salmon teriyaki, and grilled sea bass suffered from overexposure to heat lamps. Bar.
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SOMA
4820 Washington Ave (713-861-2726) Open Mon–Wed 11:30–10, Thur & Fri 11:30–11, Sat noon–11, Sun noon–10. Reservations recommended. map | reserve a table | latest review | photo | access ++ | add to library | |
$$-$$$ |
French / Japanese |
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(From October 2008) Big, bright, and bustling, Soma is a sushi bar on steroids. But that’s not all: This Heights-area production from well-known chef Robert Gadsby also bills itself as a bastion of French and Japanese delicacies, and there’s an extensive menu to prove it. Settle into a table or booth or grab a stool at the sushi counter and consider your choices (along with the imaginative decor). We opted for some first-rate hamachi and then shared a king roll. A return visit is already on our calendar. Bar.
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KATA ROBATA
3600 Kirby Dr (713-526-8858) Open Mon–Thur 11:30–11, Fri 11:30–midnight, Sat noon–midnight, Sun noon–10. Reservations accepted. web site | map | latest review | photo | access ++ | add to library | |
$$–$$$ |
Japanese |
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(From October 2009) The team behind Azuma and Soma (and the now-defunct Hue) have opened a Japanese grill in Hue’s sleek wood-and-stone spot. We happily tried a succulent lamb chop beautifully plated on a slender leaf, then went on to make a satisfying “small plates” meal of agedashi tofu, vegetable tempura, unagi (freshwater eel) sushi, peppercorn tuna sashimi, and a Caribbean roll of fried lobster, tuna, mango, avocado, and eel sauce. Manabu Horiuchi, formerly of Kubo, reigns over the sushi bar. Bar.
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WAZA JAPANESE CUISINE
6927 FM 1960 West (281-580-8858) Open Mon–Thur 11–10, Fri 11–11, Sat noon–11, Sun noon–10. Reservations recommended. map | latest review | photo | access ++ | add to library | |
$$–$$$ |
Japanese / Sushi |
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(From September 2008) We escaped the assault of overdevelopment on FM 1960, ducking into this contemporary oasis done in serene earth tones and accented with bamboo and fountains. Splendid skewers of beef from the robata and miso soup with wild mushrooms and salmon refreshed our spirits. The sushi sampler was top-quality (if predictable). From the entrée list, we picked a delicious crispy grouper filet, breaded and fried, with a sweet chile sauce. Bar.
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