Houston

(From August 2009) There are voluptuous-burger people and slim-burger people. If your taste in burgers runs more to Scarlett Johansson than, say, Audrey Hepburn, go eat this sandwich now: the half-pound patty of freshly ground Black Angus beef arrives all shimmering and juicy on a toasted whole-wheat bun. The lettuce is crisp, the thin-sliced pickles are tart, and the tomato is a ripe red instead of a pale green. For a small fee, you may have your choice of one of six cheeses—adding the rich, creamy asadero results in custom-made gloppiness where every flavor still stands on its own: perfection on a bun.

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(From August 2009) Here’s a burger you could take to a Fourth of July picnic: hand-patted, half-inch-thick meat patty; sesame-seed bun lightly toasted; tomato sliced thick; iceberg lettuce shredded for that essential bit of texture that keeps everything from going mushy. Nothing fancy about this hamburger, and that’s why we like it. It is what it is, and so’s the comfy, rumpled, Mayberry-esque cafe itself. One friend’s observation says it all: “Anybody who doesn’t like the Lankford Grocery—there’s something wrong with them.”

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(From August 2009) Watch out. If you’re not careful, you could get your photo on the wall and a nickname like the “two-a-day kid.” But who could blame you? The burgers are delicious and cheap (our whole meal cost less than $10). Nestled between a toasty buttered bun and camouflaged by crisp chopped lettuce and glowing red tomatoes is the prize: a thick, juicy patty with just enough grease to make you do the hand jive. Combine it with a Byron Freeze (blended vanilla ice cream and root beer) and you’ll be dancing all the way home.

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(From August 2009) This sandwich is a brilliant example of Tex-Mex fusion: Take a patty and bun, blanket the meat in queso blanco, add a glossy slice of salty ham and a scattering of sliced jalapeños, and keep piling on with slivers of ripe avocado along with—wait, let’s do this in Spanish because it sounds so much better—tomate fresco, mayonesa, mostaza, lechuga, y cebolla. The result is a spicy, border-crossing delight that completely befits this homey pink-walled spot on Houston’s north side.

July 30th, 2009 at 9:10am
Cedric says:
I tried [Speedy's] burger because of the article in Texas Monthly. The burger was good but not what I would consider one of the best in the state. I like speedy service but [5 minutes] was a little too quick for a quality burger. My bun was warm at best. The meat was a simple soy tasting patty. There were no slices of jalapeno on the burger but there was a whole jalapeno on the side.

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(From August 2009) The zaftig beauties you get at this Houston-area mini-chain are gorgeous. The quarter-pound patty, from chuck ground daily, is grilled over mesquite coals. The slightly sweet bun is pale yellow and lightly toasted. Each element is stacked with care. But wait! Before chowing down, you must slather on Beck’s Prime Sauce, a silky, tomatoey mayonnaise. The finalbonus is that Beck’s, though comfy and informal, is no dive; you could take your grandma here.

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(From August 2009) This Colorado import has rocked Houston’s burger world. Sizable crowds create parking problems, but patience is rewarded with tasty, messy burgers made with fresh Angus beef. Numerous add-ons make any combination possible—fried eggs, jalapeños, applewood-smoked bacon. We were plenty pleased with our Spicy Baja Burger, with pepperjack cheese, guacamole, and jalapeños on a chipotle bun. Make sure to get an order of Smashfries, crispy potatoes tossed with herbs and garlic. Salads, chicken, and hot dogs are also available. Beer & wine.

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(From August 2009) Don’t forget the fries. At Goode Company they’re hand-cut and as appealing in their salty-peppery goodness as the sunny vibe in this neighborhood restaurant. The burger comes on a sesame-studded buttery bun with sprightly iceberg leaves, generous slices of onion, and juicy red tomatoes. You add jazzy fixin’s like salsa and guacamole from the condiments bar. The slightly fatty charbroiled beef patty recalls family backyard cookouts of yore. Luckily, Dad wasn’t around this time to make us share.

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(From December 2009) Sunday brunch, that great Houston pastime, is held in high regard here. Imagine happy folks enjoying Bistro Benedicts (with avocado, prosciutto, and tomato pesto), blueberry chicken salads, and huevos rancheros in a vibrantly painted space with soaring ceilings. Dinner is equally good; we love the quick-fried calamari served with both a sweet-spicy sauce and a killer remoulade, the Kobe beef burger with seared foie gras, and mussels in coconut milk broth with a touch of red curry. Bar.

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