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12 GAGE

Gage Hotel, 102 U.S. 90W
(432-386-4205)
Dinner Sun–Thur 6–9, Fri & Sat 6–10.
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$$$

American

(From June 2011) The restaurant in the historic Gage Hotel has reopened after a slight makeover in both decor and menu and a big makeover in name. Diners no longer have to experience the austerity familiar to the cattle barons who made the place famous: Out are the awkward tables and hard seating, in are leather banquettes and upholstered chairs. And there might be a few more cow skulls on the walls. As for the new food items on offer, we found a mixed bag: a rich and delicious seafood “cheesecake” (a quiche, really), fried oysters (not the mountain kind but almost as chewy), and wagyu beef (for those who can afford it). The wine list is better than you’d expect to find out in the desert. Bar.

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