Austin

(From May 2009) Stepping into this dimly lit East Austin dive may seem like an act of faith, but in its few months on the scene, the welcoming, ultrahumble little room has amassed quite a following, serving classic cocktails like the Sazerac and a compact Old World menu. Though the chicken pâté proved bland, the delicious home-style chicken potpie came in a rich broth augmented with root vegetables and topped with a crisp puff pastry cap. Flammekueche, an Alsatian spin on pizza, came slathered with a near-jam of caramelized onions studded with bits of bacon and dabs of crème fraîche. It was excellent, though heavier on the onions and lighter on the crème than the Alsace version. A chocolate pot de crème infused with Earl Grey tea was every bit as smooth and flavorful as it sounds. Bar.

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(From December 2009) The bistro’s Web site, featuring a grainy black and white photo of semi-nude women in a bathtub, has generated a certain amount of tittering. But the food—from Chez Nous alums Pierre Pelegrin and Justine Gilcrease—is what’s enticing people to venture past the Cap Metro bus barn and wait for a table at this east side bungalow. Sipping kir royales and listening to old records, guests nibble on traditional French fare like house-cured meats and pâtés. Wafts of garlic announce the arrival of escargots. Steak frites, featuring a well-marbled ribeye with a creamy peppercorn sauce, is a big favorite, though it’s the silky crème brûlée you may want to bathe in. Laguiole cutlery and the constant pop of champagne corks make the chic crowd seem even chicer. Bar.

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(From December 2009) All traces of Zoot have disappeared under Fabi + Rosi’s natty black and white florals and stripes. Votives appear to float in midair over the banquettes, making the remodeled West Austin cottage an airy showroom for chef/co-owner Wolfgang Murber’s menu. Best starters on a recent visit were a classic, semisweet chicken liver pâté and a salad of wild arugula and fabulous “Overnight Tomatoes” (herb-marinated and treated to a long, flavor-intensifying stay in the oven). Pan-seared snapper, a special, sided by a good, slightly tart slaw of fennel and lemon, was great, but it was the rare medallions of leg of lamb in a port demi that got the table’s top vote. And prices were so reasonable that we’re eager to return. Beer & wine.

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