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UCHI
801 S. Lamar Blvd
(512-916-4808)
Dinner Sun–Thur 5–10, Fri & Sat 5–11. Reservations recommended.
web site | map | reserve through OpenTable | latest review | photo | access ++ |  add to library |
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$$-$$$ |
Japanese /
Sushi |
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(From May 2011) Who knew you could have such fun on a Monday? Clearly everyone but us, as this place was packed to the gills. And even with Uchiko, Tyson Cole’s equally popular offshoot up north, and a beautiful new cookbook, and scads of national attention, there’s been nary a slip in the astonishing creativity and meticulous sourcing of the food (you’ll learn not only the provenance of your scallop but the name of the intrepid diver who fetched it). But nothing is taken too seriously, the flavor combinations as playful as they are innovative: thinly sliced flounder with smoked sea salt and candied quinoa; a sushi roll packed with tiger shrimp and topped with tiny slices of frozen grape; peanut butter semifreddo with apple miso sorbet. The mother ship continues to operate on all cylinders. Beer, wine, & sake. |
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UCHIKO
4200 N. Lamar Blvd
(512-916-4808)
Dinner Sun–Thur 5–10, Fri & Sat 5–11. Reservations recommended.
web site | map | latest review | photo | access ++ | add to library |
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$$$ |
Japanese /
Sushi |
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(From January 2012) Ever since Tyson Cole won a James Beard award for best regional chef, getting a table at this ode to Japanese farmhouse dining is nigh impossible. But once you’re in, the kitchen delivers food as well-crafted as any haiku. Consider the poetry of maguro tuna with slivers of sweet-tart apple and lush black-pepper goat cheese. But it’s not all about the fish: Even simple brussels sprouts roasted in chile oil and fish sauce left the sweet and savory taste of umami lingering on the taste buds. The famed Tobacco Cream dessert—an oval of dark chocolate sorbet, maple pudding, and crunchy huckleberry “glass”—magically incorporates the peaty flavors of smoke and scotch. Pastry chef Philip Speer is an artist in his own right. |
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TOMO SUSHI
4101 W. Parmer Ln
(512-821-9472)
Open Mon–Thur 11:30–2:30 & 5:30–10, Fri 11:30–2:30 & 5:30–10:30, Sat noon–10. Closed Sun.
web site | map | latest review | access ++ | add to library |
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$$–$$$ |
Sushi |
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(From February 2011) A remarkably friendly staff greets you at this North Austin Japanese haunt, outfitted with sleek black booths and banquettes, where the offerings range from soba noodles to sashimi. We started with the fried calamari, too heavily breaded, to our dismay. The delicate shrimp and pork gyoza, however, compensated. A plate of tuna, salmon, and yellowtail sashimi was fresh but bland. We actually preferred it, however, to the (jump to the next sentence if you’re easily embarrassed) Screaming Orgasm, tuna tataki smothered in a creamy, slightly spicy ponzu sauce. Tomo ought to focus less on catchy menu names and let the fish—and its flavor—speak for itself. Beer & wine. |
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