(From November 2011)
If you’re looking for an authentic small-town good time, this is the spot. Families, old-timers, and hipsters line up at the counter for memorable burgers with hand-cut fries and coconut pie crowned with four inches of meringue. Stroll back to the bowling club and watch bowling pins being reset by hand while you wait for your food. Ritual and good, plain victuals served all day without irony. Beer & wine coolers.