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GIO’S CAFE & NEW YORK STYLE DELI

12817 Preston Rd
(972-387-4467)
Open Sun & Mon 7–3, Thur–Sat 7–9
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$

Dallas

Italian

(From July 2011)

As far as we’re concerned, “Café” could be left out of the name, because the food here is mainly deli. Never would we have guessed that stuffed cabbage could be such a delight: The tender leaves were crammed with beef and rice and served in a tomato broth studded with raisins, onions, and celery. The beef stroganoff was surprisingly bland, but we did like the flavorful side of carrot and zucchini slivers. The cheesecake seems to be the dessert of choice, but chocolate cannoli come in a close second. 

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GIORGIO’S

1018 Broadway
(806-765-9330)
Cash Only.
Open Mon-Fri 10-6. Closed Sat & Sun. Cash or check only.
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$

Lubbock

Burgers /
Italian

 

(From January 2012)

Giorgio’s is downtown lunch at its best. We’re enamored of the Italian awning, the no-frills tables and chairs, the old-fashioned red-and-white-checkered floor, and, of course, the food. Hearty meat, gooey cheese, and tomato sauce are tucked into the flaky, homemade crusts of the calzones as well piled on the pizzas, which you can get by the slice or the pie (New York–style, with a crust so delicate it folds right up in your hand). Lunch specials are a good bet, like a slice, a salad, and a drink for only $5.50 or lasagne, garlic toast, and a drink for $6.25. And with prices so low and food so beloved, you can expect a line out the door. Thank goodness it moves fast!

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JIMMY’S FOOD STORE

4901 Bryan at Fitzhugh
(214-823-6180)
Open Mon–Sat 9–7:30. Closed Sun.
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$

Dallas

Italian /
Eclectic

 

(From October 2010) Lacking the euros to travel to Italy, we can still savor Italian delights by visiting this small grocery store with its myriad imported treasures. We sat down to enjoy a prosciutto panino with shreds of basil and thick slabs of mozzarella; it was easily shared by two. Adding to that a behemoth portion of muffuletta salad, a small bottle of San Pellegrino sparkling Chinotto (a bitter citrus fruit drink similar to Campari in taste), and a small round of chocolate cake with dense ganache icing, we had ourselves quite a feast. If so inclined, an Italian espresso costing only $1 might be the best ending of all. Beer & wine.

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MONI’S PASTA & PIZZA

125 W. Ovilla Rd
(972-230-8500)
Open Tue–Thur 11–9, Fri & Sat 11–10, Sun 11–8. Closed Mon.
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$

Glenn Heights

Italian /
Pizza

 

(From December 2010) This New York–style Italian joint serves up all the traditional fare. We went with the filling tortellini Michelangelo, the stuffed pasta sautéed with bacon, mushrooms, diced tomato, and artichokes, and a tender veal siciliana, topped with eggplant, ham, and melted cheese. Lunch specials are numerous, from homemade subs to great salads. And remember—all meals are served with a basket of buttery rolls that are out of this world. BYOB.

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CIAO LAVANDERIA

226 E. Olmos Dr, just off McCullough
(210-822-3990)
Lunch Mon–Fri 11–2. Dinner Mon–Thur 5–9:30, Fri & Sat 5–10. Closed Sun.
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$-$$

San Antonio

Italian

 

(From January 2012)

What happened? This friendly spot, long known for serving Italian fare far more exalted than the modest prices suggest, seems to have slipped back to just a notch or two above mediocrity. Bow tie pasta with smoked salmon had an unpleasant intensity of flavor that was most un-Italian, while the polenta with goat cheese came with an overbrowned crust that robbed it of its delicacy and lightness. We fared better with the shrimp and tomato risotto, whose flavors melded admirably. The specials (see the board on the wall) are often a good bet, and if the crew can right the ship, Ciao should regain its standing as a local favorite. Beer & wine.

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DOUGH PIZZERIA NAPOLETENA

11909 Preston Rd.
(972-788-4600)
Open Tue-Sat 11am-10pm. Closed Sun & Mon.
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$-$$

Dallas

Italian

 

(From January 2012)

If you're a fan of Neapolitan-style pizza, this no-frills San Antonio import should be your next stop. We made a fine Italian lunch out of spiedini of warm mozzerella wrapped in prosciutto di Parma and a pizza swathed with fontina cheese, oak-roasted mushrooms, and carmelized onion. The thereal polenta cake was delectable, as were the Nutella panini, and the silky panna cotta ringed with balsamic sauce and macerated berries was dessert indulgence to the hilt. Bar.

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MOMO ITALIAN SPECIALTIES

9191 Forest Ln, at Greenville
(972-234-6800)
Lunch Mon–Fri 11–2. Dinner Sun–Thur 5:30–9, Fri & Sat 5:30–10:30.
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$-$$

Dallas

Italian

 

(From June 2011) An Insalata Fantasia (red leaf lettuce, hearts of palm, artichokes, prosciutto, wal-nuts, and Gruyère) was a hefty appetizer, as you might well guess. But we fearlessly forged ahead with the risotto funghi, which we found lacking in depth, unfortunately (perhaps because the rice was cooked with vegetable broth instead of wine). But the chef’s heart is certainly in the right spot when it comes to pasta, with a firm resolve to serve no noodle before its time; a fif-teen-minute wait resulted in perfectly cooked penne. BYOB.

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ORLANDO’S

The 50 Best Burgers 2009 »
2402 Avenue Q
(806-747-5998)
Open Sun–Thur 11–10, Fri & Sat 11–11.
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$-$$

Lubbock

Italian /
Burgers

 

(From January 2011) Here Texas-style Italian fare gets a jolt of Southwestern flavor. In the Down-n-Dirty Tortellini, the innocent cheese-stuffed pasta pockets turn into blazing hot, addictive treats when sautéed in a habanero sauce, while New Mexico green chiles spice up the chicken linguine. Even the Cheeseburger in Paradise (which this magazine ranked in the top ten burgers in Texas) blends cultures, with its hearty beef patty served on a garlic-buttered Italian roll. Mangia, y’all! Bar.

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BRIX

2747 S. Hulen
(817-924-2749)
Open Mon-Sat 11-10, Sun 4-10.
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$$

Fort Worth

Pizza /
Italian

 

(From February 2012)

Chef-restaurateur Daniele Puleo, a native of Sicily, insisted on a proper wood-fired oven for the preparation of his signature pizzas, and we’re glad he did. The oven’s extremely high heat produces an evenly baked pie with crisp edges, a crusty bottom, and a supple center. The popular Brooklyn pie has mozzarella, slices of meatball, basil, and tomato, while Christina’s Favorite makes a nice vegetarian option, with its roasted eggplant, goat cheese, Parmesan, and balsamic reduction (there wasn’t a crumb left when we finished that one). Bar.

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CIAO SICILIA

6900 N. Mesa
(915-584-1801)
Open Tue–Thur 11–9, Fri & Sat 11–10, Sun noon–9. Closed Mon.
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$$

El Paso

Italian /
Pizza

 

(From November 2011)

Bright and airy, this new Italian cafe features Sicilian-style cooking (and they make their sausage in-house!). For a light appetizer try the margherita pizza, with its papery-thin crust, fresh tomato sauce, and dollops of mozzarella. Pasta is made fresh daily, but the star is the veal limone, the meat delicately sautéed and topped with a not-too-tart lemon sauce. Be sure to leave room for the homemade gelato. BYOB.

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