(From May 2011) The 48-ounce porterhouse made the guys in our group very happy. The distaff side of the party acquitted itself admirably with a couple of items from the blackboard menu—scallops with a tangerine mostarda, snapper ravioli with herbs and pecorino—plus a hefty veal chop with black truffle risotto. Prices are not modest, but for our money the best Italian food in town—indeed, some of the best food, period—can be found in this cozy cottage. Bar.

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(From May 2011) We lazed on the terrace of this old house on a recent evening, sipping Italian wines and feasting on shaved brussels sprouts with pecorino and paper-thin prosciutto; orecchiette spiked with escarole and sweet sausage; and a thin-crusted pizza loaded with tomato, mozzarella, prosciutto, and arugula. We had a minor quibble with tough paccheri pasta in a lackluster tomato sauce, but overall we were a happy bunch. Bar.

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(From May 2011) Conviviality is built into the menu; perhaps it’s the romantic idea of dining alfresco (even indoors, the patio seems part of the space) or the bustle of the open kitchen or, most likely, that every dish practically demands a shared taste or two. First, try a selection of antipasti, perhaps some roasted beets, or the insalata di mare with squid, fish, and shrimp. Then consider a thin-crusted pizza, managing imagination and Roman authenticity simultaneously, with toppings from greens to pancetta to garlic (speaking of, hope for olive-studded focaccia with whole roasted cloves on the daily rotation). And with that, you’ve lunched very well indeed, and for about the same price as a far more pedestrian offering elsewhere. Not that we shun dinner (wild boar, roast rabbit, squid ink risotto) and its slightly more polished ambience—but after 6 we often find ourselves waiting for a table. Beer & wine.

Thursday, December 22nd, 2011, 3:40 pm
Todd says:
Very disappointed, waiter informed us that the menu was changing therefore several items on the menu were no longer available. And of the available items they were out. The bread sticks on the table and ambiance are nice touches, but don’t make a menu.

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(From December 2010) Peach-toned walls give a flattering glow to the interior of Arturo Boada and Bill Sadler’s Uptown Park restaurant, but its columned porch beckoned us on a mild evening. Two great salads kept our attention: a caprese of yellow and red grape tomatoes, mozzarella, capers, oregano, and basil and an inspired mix of baby greens, walnuts, pancetta, orange slices, and goat cheese. Sonia’s Ravioli, stuffed with chicken and porcini mushrooms and served with white wine–basil sauce, proved delicious and beyond rich, but it didn’t preclude our sharing a slice of tiramisu. Bar.

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(From February 2012)

Chef-restaurateur Daniele Puleo, a native of Sicily, insisted on a proper wood-fired oven for the preparation of his signature pizzas, and we’re glad he did. The oven’s extremely high heat produces an evenly baked pie with crisp edges, a crusty bottom, and a supple center. The popular Brooklyn pie has mozzarella, slices of meatball, basil, and tomato, while Christina’s Favorite makes a nice vegetarian option, with its roasted eggplant, goat cheese, Parmesan, and balsamic reduction (there wasn’t a crumb left when we finished that one). Bar.

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(From November 2010) Loosely translated as “Joe’s Basement,” this lively Italian joint serves up family-style food (“small” on the menu serves 4, “large” serves 6) in perhaps the most relaxed place in town. Two good first-round offerings were the Caesar salad (alas, no anchovies) and a large bowl of dense, filling minestrone soup. Guaranteed to satisfy the heartiest appetites was an entrée of chicken limone adorned with capers, plus a huge helping of fettuccine Alfredo. House-made New York style cheesecake was gilded with toasted hazelnuts and raspberry sauce. This is definitely the place to have after-soccer parties. Bar.

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(From December 2010) The warm brick walls and large French doors remain, but the Vallone family operators have added some art and new paint and generally spiffed up the old La Strada location. Happily, the food meets new standards too. We liked our pale green heirloom tomato gazpacho, which benefited from a nice pile of crabmeat in the middle, and a lovely salad with cherry tomatoes, watermelon, arugula, and goat cheese. Our meat eater approved charred lamb T-bones with mint vinegar, and our vegetarian enjoyed the pappardelle with tomatoes and burrata. One cavil: The breads could use improvement. Bar.

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(From January 2012)

In a college town, restaurants come and go. But for three decades, Cenare—hidden in an unassuming shopping center—has beaten the odds with super food and a charming atmosphere. We started our meal with two antipasti items: spicy cheese ravioli (breaded and toasted—a Midwestern American specialty) and crab-stuffed mushrooms topped with a zesty Creole mustard sauce. For the main course, we tried two distinctly different dishes: gnocchi (potato dumplings) in a thick, rich pesto cream sauce and spaghetti alla vongole (clams with a white wine and garlic sauce, a lighter option). Even though sangria originated in Spain, Italy and other countries love it too. Cenare’s refreshing fruity version went well with almost everything.

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(From January 2012)

What happened? This friendly spot, long known for serving Italian fare far more exalted than the modest prices suggest, seems to have slipped back to just a notch or two above mediocrity. Bow tie pasta with smoked salmon had an unpleasant intensity of flavor that was most un-Italian, while the polenta with goat cheese came with an overbrowned crust that robbed it of its delicacy and lightness. We fared better with the shrimp and tomato risotto, whose flavors melded admirably. The specials (see the board on the wall) are often a good bet, and if the crew can right the ship, Ciao should regain its standing as a local favorite. Beer & wine.

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(From November 2011)

Bright and airy, this new Italian cafe features Sicilian-style cooking (and they make their sausage in-house!). For a light appetizer try the margherita pizza, with its papery-thin crust, fresh tomato sauce, and dollops of mozzarella. Pasta is made fresh daily, but the star is the veal limone, the meat delicately sautéed and topped with a not-too-tart lemon sauce. Be sure to leave room for the homemade gelato. BYOB.

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