Austin

(From June 2011) From our vantage point in the small, mod-looking dining room, its bright walls adorned with local art, it was clear that this oldie but goodie still draws a steady crowd. We contemplated a charcuterie plate to start, but the more than generous bowl of Drunken Citrus Mussels had us at Thai chiles and fresh cilantro. A silken cauliflower bisque soothed with each rich and buttery bite. Panko-crusted chicken piccata came lavished with beurre blanc, but it was the haystack of crisp french fries atop the well-seasoned hanger steak that had us begging for more. Beer & wine.

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(From June 2011) If this counter-order place reminds you a bit of Asia Cafe, a mere half a mile down the highway, it’s because both a chef and some servers from the front of that house have gone over to this one. A+A is a place to be adventurous, friends. Try the Cold Jelly Noodles, chopped thick and sea-soned with ma la (also called prickly ash or Sichuan pepper-corn), which produces a tingly, tongue-numbing sensation and has a lemony taste. Or check out the twice-fried pork, identical to thick bacon and as rich as the description sug-gests; stalks of garlic shoots, a cross between green beans and asparagus in texture, soak up the delicious fat. After that, the deep-fried triangles of sesame tofu in a light, sweet sauce will seem like diet food.

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(From June 2011) We found a table for two in the back of this airy downtown space, then sipped some pinot grigio, taking in the lively scene up front by the bar. The Market Slaw—shaved fennel, apples, and spring vegetables plus frisée and endive in an overdose of buttermilk dressing—didn’t impress, but the moules, mus-sels in white wine with chorizo, took us back to a lovely lunch in Saint-Malo many summers ago. A bowl of French onion soup satisfied our companion, while we noshed on ultra-crisp pommes frites and a perfectly cooked steak drizzled with heavenly béarnaise. We left as the band was warming up, de-termined to plan our next trip abroad. Bar.

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(From May 2011) Warm and inviting easily describe this new little spot for Neapolitan-style (i.e., thin-crust) pizzas located behind Parkside and run by Parkside chef-owner Shawn Cirkiel. At the bar, we snagged a couple of stools—made from old wine barrels—and admired the glowing Italian-made brick oven while awaiting our order. We loved our appe-tizer, morsels of gooey prosciutto-wrapped mozzarella bathed in a garlicky marinara. But, as expected, the flat-bread pizzas stole the show, especially the rich mushroom and ricotta on a super-crispy crust. We also loved the jar of chocolate-hazelnut budino that we had for dessert, but we wished it had had a bit more chocolate rather than a whipped cream topping. Beer & wine.

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(From February 2012)

Yes, the tucked-away setting off Lamar has been inauspicious for many a restaurant. And, yes, a few of us are suffering from pork fatigue. But it’s hard not to be charmed by this cheerful yellow house, with its hodgepodge of porcine decor and enthusiastic young staff. And it’s also hard not to wonder if this place got named for the wrong animal. Sure, the ubiquitous bacon was great—sprinkled atop a mound of cheesy fries, sandwiched with juicy tomatoes between thick slices of toasted bread. But what really got our attention were the massive chunks of golden-battered fried chicken, in an appetizer (strips served with bacon gravy, of course) and in the chicken BLT, in which the B, the L, and the T got seriously upstaged. Beer.

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(From November 2010) Francophiles in search of the best croissant this side of the Atlantic need look no further than this tiny bakery in West Austin. Versailles-born pastry chef Chi-Minh has not only tinkered with the perfect flour-and-butter ratio for a flawless, flaky French delicacy but also delivers on bistro classics, including quiche lorraine, buttery omelets, savory buckwheat crepes filled with anything from ham to cheese to spinach, and simple delights such as chocolate mousse and crisp-on-the-outside, spongy-on-the-inside baguettes. C’est magnifique!

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(From May 2011) On a nippy evening, we edged our way into this wildly popular start-up from chef-owner Bryce Gilmore (he also has Odd Duck trailer, but don’t worry—this one’s indoors). We enjoyed the congenial vibe from the four communal tables while we waited for our small plates. First came roasted beets with creamy ricotta, endive, and shaved fen-nel—nice. We quite liked the pairing of grilled baby octopus with chorizo and white beans, but it paled in compari-son with our first bite of the soft-boiled egg with crispy stuffed pig’s foot, mushrooms, and mustard. We were told the best way to eat the trotter was to mix everything up, and it was a revelation, the perfect melding of textures and flavors. We finished with beer-braised rabbit stew. Pure bliss. We didn’t want to leave this little island of happiness. Beer & wine.

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(From January 2012)

The more things change, the more they change. Longtime central Austin restaurant Zoot moved way out to Bee Cave Road two years ago but never really thrived. Stewart Scruggs and Mark Paul put it out of its misery, and about a month or so later, reopened as BC Tavern. Intelligent move. Within two weeks, the nice but less dressy restaurant and bar was busy most every night. What's bringing in the customers are backyard and down-home dishes like four different burgers and fried chicken on Sundays. But because the owners are chefs, not just cooks, they can't resist French bistro favorites like an excellent duck confit with al dente vegetables and moist, if dense, quenelles (which they disguise under the name Duck-n-Dumplins). Also very fine: a ribeye with new potatoes and a balsalmic-drizzled broiled tomato. In need of a thnk-over: clunky onion rings and delicate but disturbingly nugget-size sweetbreads.

See also Pat's Pick, page 133.

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(From January 2012)

You can't help but feel a tinge of Paris at the turn of the twentieth century when you're dining in this gothic basement-level restaurant, especially tucked away in a cozy booth beneath an antique chandelier. Gulf shrimp simmered in a garlicky tomato broth and served with a slice of crisply grilled ciabatta started the meal out on the right note. Easily keeping pace was a hearty chicken potpie with a puff pastry shell. Grilled tenderloin in a mushroom reduction with a pat of foie gras compound butter tasted as decadent as it sounds, but a seared scallop dish laden with butter and salt was too much of a good thing. Bar.

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(From February 2012)

The more things change, the more they stay the same. In the case of Mirabelle, the changes come in the form of new owners, a new chef, and an authentically French menu, while the friendly service and warm neighborhood vibe remain. Duck rillettes pleased us more in taste than in presentation, but butter leaf lettuce with an herbed vinaigrette achieved both eye and palate appeal. Classic trout meunière hit the right notes (citrusy, savory, and buttery), and a merguez sausage sandwich with crispy french fries made a lasting impression. We swooned over a chocolate custard tart sprinkled with sea salt and an apple galette served with brown butter ice cream. Beer & wine.

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