El Paso

Photograph by Les

(From October 2011)

El Paso’s newest barbecue joint is tiny but bright, with kelly green walls and red-topped bar stools. A pleasant smoky scent permeates the room, where friendly staffers serve up piles of meat; the chunky, well-balanced sausage is unlike any other in the city. Don’t miss the brisket-stuffed, bacon-wrapped smoked jalapeños. Beer & Wine.

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(From January 2012)

The recently opened cantina is the brainchild of local restaurateur John Geske. In a move away from the formal menu of his other restaurants, Bikini Joe's serves street-style tacos, tortas, and tapatias, along with other casual favorites such as burgers and chicken wings (crispy and spicy, they may just be the best in the city). A hopping bar atmosphere with a great patio completes the scene.

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(From September 2010) For a walk on the wild side follow Highway 28 just across the Texas–New Mexico border to this famous biker bar and restaurant. Locals know it’s the best spot in the world for Hatch green chile enchila-das and chiles rellenos. You may be sitting elbow-to-elbow with a tattooed, ponytailed, middle-aged executive turned biker dude but you won’t care, because the quart bottle of cold Miller beer will inspire conversation as well as wash down all those chiles. No live music, but the bathroom graffiti is highly entertaining. Bar.

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(From November 2011)

Bright and airy, this new Italian cafe features Sicilian-style cooking (and they make their sausage in-house!). For a light appetizer try the margherita pizza, with its papery-thin crust, fresh tomato sauce, and dollops of mozzarella. Pasta is made fresh daily, but the star is the veal limone, the meat delicately sautéed and topped with a not-too-tart lemon sauce. Be sure to leave room for the homemade gelato. BYOB.

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(From January 2011) The owner of the newest West Side cafe resembles former Dallas Cowboys coach Jimmy Johnson and fries anything from the ham that’s tucked into the club sandwich to flour tortilla–wrapped Her-shey bar “chimichangas.” If you lean toward the traditional, try the Philly cheesesteak: thinly sliced lean beef with a smoky, garlicky flavor blending with grilled onions, peppers, and loads of melted jack cheese. Flat-screen TVs, wood paneling, and comfy tables make this a good gathering spot for televised sporting events. BYOB.

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(From December 2010) This cozy neighborhood pizzeria and wine bar has terra-cotta tile floors warmed by brick and wood-paneled walls, and it offers a variety of sandwiches, salads, and gourmet pizzas. The house-made crusts are yeasty, doughy-good, and just the right thickness, while the choice of toppings is all over the map. Diners with hearty appetites should try the delectable sausage, pepperoni, and ham pizza with jalapeños. Excellent by-the-glass wine list. Beer & wine.

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(From March 2011) Located on Fort Bliss and open to the public, this authentic biergarten is owned and operated by the German Air Force, which imports all manner of foodstuffs straight from the fatherland. Warm, filling sustenance can be found in a plate of tender beef rouladen or wiener schnitzel, pounded thin and lightly fried, with lemon wedges on the side. But the German sausage plate wins top prize in our book. And the beer selection is unmatched anywhere in the country, as many, if not most, of the beers are available only here (and in Germany, of course). Although the casual dining room is rather utilitarian, the patio is outfitted with lawn furniture, a few awnings, and desert plants. The variety of customers provides most of the atmosphere. Bar. Enter Fort Bliss at Biggs Gate (Airway & Geronimo); show the guard your vehicle registration and insurance, as well as government-issued IDs (this is a military base, folks, but the food is worth the hassle)

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(From January 2011) Wrought iron, earth tones, and Argentinean-inspired art and sculpture make this hot spot for beef a standout among El Paso’s fine dining restaurants. Originally established in Chihuahua, Garufa’s newest location offers skilled service not often seen outside classic New York steakhouses. Prosciutto-wrapped asparagus served on a bed of spinach and topped with the olive oil used to sauté the asparagus is crispy and salty. The traditional Argentinean steaks are top-notch and served juicy and fragrant with sautéed onions and jalapeños. Plus there’s house-made chimichurri on the side. Bar

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(From October 2011)

The sushi bar dominates this space, and it should, because the sushi is excellent, made from fresh ingredients by nimble-fingered chefs who dice, slice, roll, and plate at lightning speed. Start with sashimi of yellowtail tuna and salmon, both flavorful and firm, then try the Crunch Roll, an interesting combo of California roll and shrimp tempura.

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(From June 2011) This stylish new eatery on the west side promises organic, healthy choices without any sacrifice in flavor. Committed to serv-ing only fresh fare, chef Adam Alper starts early each morning, coordinating daily de-liveries and turning them into the likes of seared tuna with a dried-cherry compote; delicate, melt-in-your-mouth soy-glazed sea bass; and buttery, hormone-free beef sauced with a pomegranate demi-glace. Beer & wine.

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