Houston

(From July 2008) There’s nothing quite like the authentic food and icy cervezas served from the trailers and stalls that line the streets of Mexico City, but we played a good game of pretend at this Southwest Freeway storefront. Its taco-stand facade set the mood for our small flour-tortilla tacos—one each of fajita, spicy chipotle brisket, and chicken mole. The chipotle mix (tinga) also starred in miniature masa “pies” (sopes), along with black beans, onions, and cheese. Tres leches cake rounded out a satisfying, if imaginary, trip south. Beer & margaritas.

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(From June 2009) The newest jewel in Youssef Nafaa’s Main Street empire shines brightly on the corner where St. Pete’s Dancing Marlin once cavorted. Walls of windows illuminate the handsome brick and dark-wood interior, but it was the kitchen’s sparkle that caught our attention, first in a rich roasted-tomato salsa and a piquant tomatillo-jalapeño version served with tostadas. Then our hearts were won by a special of house-made fettuccine with asparagus and a filet of wild salmon in chipotle sauce. We’ve vowed to return and sample happy-hour bargains before our ardor cools. Bar.

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(From December 2009) Inner Loopers can settle in for a nice nosh at this tapas and wine bar in the River Oaks Shopping Center. A glassy dining room and shady garden make a pleasant backdrop for sharing plates of caracoles an-daluces (snails, artichokes, sun-dried tomatoes, and goat cheese), shrimp cooked in white wine–garlic sauce, and roasted piquillo peppers stuffed with goat cheese and spinach. Wash it all down with a rea-sonably priced tempranillo-grenache blend. Beer & wine.

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(From September 2009) White tablecloths and solicitous service are your first clues. This place is a step above the usual Mexican spot. Sure, the traditional standbys make an appearance, but how about the queso cilantro: a block of Chihuahua cheese crusted with crushed chicha-rrones (puffy pork rinds) and fried, then topped with poblano-tomatillo sauce, cilantro, and sesame seeds? Or an inventive Queso Fajita, a wrapper of cheese stuffed with fajita meat, then topped with a garnish of avocado pico de gallo? Bar.

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(From November 2009) A suit at the next table explained the overflow crowd to us: Guadalajara is one of the few fairly priced choices for good food in the downtown area. A chilled “Baja cocktail” of mixed seafood was a re-freshing respite from the summer heat and allowed an opportunity to peruse the various enchilada platters, like jalapeño cheese, chicken and spinach, or beef fajita. The large, stylish room features a colorful mural and a balcony bar that hosts a popular happy hour. Three other locations serve the ’burbs. Bar.

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(From November 2008) Change is afoot at this venerable institution. Oh, the same comfortably shabby interior remains, with faux Tiffany lamps and a Longhorn over the bar. But a garden off the patio is planned, as well as a little taco trailer for takeout. We enjoyed getting reacquainted with familiar dishes—the mellow green and red salsas and chips, the house-made tortillas, and the rich queso flameado. And, of course, a mixed chicken and beef fajita platter with rice, refrieds, and onions. We also liked the shrimp version with charro beans, though the onions were undercooked. Warning: potent margaritas. Bar.

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(From December 2009) There’s a cool vibe to this Mexican hot spot, and its draw is upscale and edgy; who else serves sautéed grasshoppers and rabbit tinga (stew)? We had a fantastic thin-sliced octopus grilled with onions and peppers and a refreshing cocktail of crab, shrimp, snapper, and oysters. Our mole fan reveled in the exquisite sauce that dressed sautéed jumbo shrimp, and our one departure from seafood, soft tacos with wood-grilled beef tenderloin, proved a winner too. For dessert, anything chocolate is divine. Bar.

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(From October 2009) Happily, the dearth of Mexican eateries in the Museum District has eased with the opening of this casual taco and burrito joint, complete with inviting patio tables along tree-lined Caroline Street. The for-mat is familiar, but the ingredients are upgraded and many items house-made. We chose a supersize burrito with ground sirloin and a taco plate featuring both pork carnitas and fajita chicken, then piled on beans, cheese, onion, sour cream, and tomato. Next came pineapple salsa for the carnitas and cilantro lime sauce for the burrito, plus guava frozen margaritas all around. Bar.

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(From June 2008) Of all the great Mexican food in town, this boisterous spot ranks fair-to-middlin’, but crowds still come for Tex-Mex standards in huge portions. Case in point: The “small” bowl of yummy chicken and vegetable soup with cheese and avocado could feed a family of four. Nicely executed, also, was the grilled chicken breast topped with spinach, queso fresco, and a mild chipotle sauce. An order of tacos al carbón was marred only by a hunk of fat in the otherwise full-flavored, tender beef. Bar.

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