Houston

(From December 2009) Chef-owner Marco Wiles’s first-rate Italian restaurant—his flagship—can satisfy a multitude of appetites. One of us started with a rich black truffle risotto and followed that with a thick veal chop topped with a bit of olive oil, some roasted tomatoes, and arugula. The other began with burrata cheese and roasted cherry tomatoes followed by a grand slab of seared Alaskan halibut in a light tomato broth. We shared a side dish of great garlicky spinach. Beer & wine.

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(From December 2009) Some of the simplest dishes here remain the best at this old house, like a brisk salad of arugula and roasted tomato and truffle egg toast. We enjoyed our spaghetti with mussels, leeks, and white wine (though the dish was not improved by the addition of chewy chunks of pancetta) and a thin-crusted pizza layered with prosciutto, mozzarella, tomato, and arugula. Our servers, though, were over-whelmed (as were we) by a nearby party of 25 high-spirited diners. Bar.

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(From November 2008) Silver-haired chef-owner Andrea Pintus (formerly of Patrenella’s) lovingly rules over his new far-west strip-center domain, a spacious spot softened by arches and faux-marble columns. Tasty involtini—thin-sliced fried eggplant wrapped into rolls with ham, salami, and provolone—got us off to a protein-packed start. Even more impressive were the generous entrées: ravioli stuffed with veal, sage, and Parmesan and house-made gnocchi with a mellow Gorgonzola sauce. We expect to be regulars here. Beer & wine.

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(From September 2009) The burgundy walls and print tablecloths of this cozy bistro launched us on the first stage of our journey from west Houston to the Mediterranean. We were completely transported once our kind server brought a delicately seasoned pork terrine, duck rillettes, and a bowl of creamy ginger-carrot soup. Before we could completely spoil our appetite with flatbread fresh from the pizza oven, our entrées appeared: sautéed grouper paired with ratatouille-filled cannelloni and a winey beef stew with olives and potatoes. Clinking glasses of Côtes du Rhône, we promised to make this quick trip again. Beer & wine.

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(From December 2009) The Vallones—Tony and Jeff—have a hit on their hands. Apparently adding some dramatic art to the already striking setting that was Jimmy Wilson’s Seafood and Chop House (high ceilings, open kitchen, a lovely patio) and offering classic Italian dishes at mid-level prices results in a packed house. One entrée was pure Tony: fedelini pasta topped with a buttery sauce cut with lemon and vermouth. We also liked the cuscinetti, pasta “pillows” stuffed with chicken, fontina, sausage, and spinach. Ciao bello, indeed. Bar.

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(From June 2009) Hip and contemporary, H&H dished up a lovely dinner despite timing miscues and blips in execution (like a bland noodle salad, despite the presence of a truffle ranch dressing). While eyeing our neighbors’ grilled flatbread with arugula and Pecorino, we dined well. We started with a sweet onion tart with pancetta and Gorgonzola and a cup of creamy tomato-basil soup, then graduated to a fine beef tenderloin with sautéed baby spinach and roasted root vegetables. Note: The restaurant’s breakfast menu looks fabulous. Bar.

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(From December 2009) You might expect to find this narrow ten-top gem of a dining room tucked away in New York City. But right off Interstate 10? With a first-rate chef behind the counter turning out Brooklyn/Italian favorites with a Texas twist? Cued that a queue was likely, we opted for a latish supper, starting with a green salad (sparked with fresh herbs and a fine house dressing) followed by filet asada (grilled with a chipotle rub and served with roasted corn–queso sauce). An ample bowl of scampi on angel hair pasta in garlic-shallot citrus juices was even good nuked the next day. BYOB.

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(From December 2009) In this elegant space, the business express lunch is exquisite—and a bargain. Think highfalutin bento boxes with four mini-courses, like baby greens with shaved fennel and vanilla bean vinaigrette; flavorful lentil soup; pasta with buffalo bolognese and mozzarella; and luscious caramel cream puffs. An equally splendid choice is the meaty pan-seared spearfish with shrimp-stuffed ravioli and sautéed spinach. We think we overheard the word “hoity-toity” bandied about, but we sure had fun. Bar.

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(From March 2009) Washington Avenue, our town’s newest restaurant row, scores again with this storefront Italian eatery/market, a spanking-new space in the traditional mode of checked tablecloths, lace curtains, and no-nonsense food. We liked our ground beef lasagne and chicken Parmesan from the bargain lunch buffet (any three items for $6.95) but were quite impressed with sides of roasted asparagus, brussels sprouts with bacon and onions, and a Caesar salad sparked atypically with capers and Pecorino Romano. Beer & wine.

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(From September 2008) Once an antiques shop, this pleasant warren of small rooms and patios invites a ramble to pick a table. And the bar, with its exposed beams, makes a fine spot for a relaxing drink. The food, described as European, is promising. Recent highlights included a grilled eight-ounce filet mignon served with béarnaise and roasted red onions and peppers and a vegetable soup featuring lentils. We very much enjoyed the fettuccine with hearty short rib ragoût, Parmesan, and fresh basil but lamented the overcooked tuna filet. Bar.

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