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FRANKLIN BARBECUE
900 E. 11th
(512-653-1187)
Open Tue–Sun 11–until they sell out. Closed Mon.
web site | map | latest review | photo | access ++ |  add to library |
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Photograph by Brian Birzer |
(From June 2011) Smoke is wafting into the air again from the site of the former Ben's Longbranch. But the occupant of the revamped old building is a young'un, namely Aaron Franklin, who had quite an avid following at his barbecue trailer. Acolytes at this altar of 'cue start the vigil hours before the the door opens, and the Last Man Standing sign (sold out!) has reportedly appeared as early as 12:30. Happily, the move into cinder-block-and-mortar hasn't changed the meltingly moist brisket or the fluffy (yet crusty-edged) shreds of pulled pork. We can't attest to the pork ribs; they were gone by the time we reached the counter. A nice touch: Wife and partner Stacy Franklin sometimes comes around to offer a Mexican Coke while you wait. Beer. |
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JMUELLER BBQ
1502 S. 1st
(512-229-7366)
Open Tue-Sat 11-6 or until meat runs out. Closed Sun & Mon.
web site | map | latest review | photo | access + | add to library |
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Barbecue |
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Photograph by R.L. Reeves |
(From February 2012) Austin is John Mueller–deprived no longer. The onetime king of the barbecue mountain began his comeback October 11, operating from a trailer in a pecan grove at South First and Elizabeth while waiting for his building to be constructed. A huge pit makes the whole vacant lot smell divine. And aside from wishing for more of that oaky smoke flavor in everything, we found the brisket (both the fatty and the lean) the best of the bunch, followed closely by beef ribs and then pork ribs, all falling to pieces and amply salted and peppered. The prime rib, though, tasted almost smoke-free, and the super-lean pork chop came off dry. Top side: terrific mustardy mashed-potato salad. Forgettable: ranch-style beans and harsh chipotle slaw. Surprisingly effective: a thin, tomatoey-vinegary-oniony sauce. |
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OLD SCHOOL BBQ & GRILL
A brick-and-mortar joint recently opened at 6th & Trinity. The bus will be back online soon.
(512-947-6830)
Check twitter.com/oldschoolbbq or Facebook (search oldschool bbqandgrill) for daily info.
web site | map | latest review | photo | no access | add to library |
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(From January 2011) If you see a school bus parked on the road billowing smoke from its roof, don't call 911. Pull over and get in line. We thought we had ordered a small amount of grass-fed Angus brisket, but we were over-whelmed with the enormous pile of melt-in-your-mouth meat (attached to generous portions of velvety fat) that arrived. An unusual sauce, with caramelized red onions, only heightened our bliss (note: must like sugar). Contributing too were thick, hand-cut fries (doused with salt and whole peppercorns) and spicy jalapeño sausage. And don’t get us started on the steak burger. Piled on a fluffy, grilled bun, the monster dripped with goodness. |
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STILES SWITCH BBQ & BREW
6610 N. Lamar Blvd
(512-380-9199)
Mon-Thur 11-8:30, Sat & Sun 11-9
web site | map | latest review | access ++ | add to library |
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Barbecue |
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(From May 2012) Named for the railroad stop established in 1876 on the Stiles family homestead in Williamson County, Stiles Switch marks yet another notch on Austin’s barbecue belt. Owner Shame Stiles and pit boss Lance Kirkpatrick, formerly of Louie Mueller’s have upped the ante in a town already rife with Mueller protégés (do the names Aaron Franklin and John Mueller ring a bell?). Fortunately there’s been plenty of room, particularly in the restaurant desert of North Lamar. This place has a great feel, with ESPN on the TVs, country music on the radio, and Texas craft beers on tap. Even better are the juicy, finely ground sausage links; very respectable brisket; and plump, ubertender pork ribs. Sides kind of limp along (a little bland), but we’ll let that slide. Beer. |
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