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NEIGHBORHOOD SERVICES

5027 W. Lovers Ln (214-350-5027)
Bar opens at 5. Dinner Mon–Thur 5:30–10, Fri & Sat 5:30–11. Closed Sun.
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$$

Dallas

American /
Mediterranean

(From December 2009) Terrific tempura asparagus with a roasted-Meyer-lemon-and-dill aioli helped assuage our hunger after a long, long wait for a table. The next course, romaine hearts with a garlicky dressing and one lone white anchovy, was a refreshing segue to the crowning moment of the evening: the arrival of short ribs with toasted French gnocchi, napped with a Shiraz-rosemary jus. What a dish! Good thing the food is so good, because the noise reduces conversation to a bare minimum. Bar.

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BEDFORD

1001 Studewood (713-880-1001)
Lunch Mon-Fri 11:30-2:30. Dinner Sun-Thur 5:30-10, Fri & Sat 5:30-11. Brunch Sun 11-2:30.
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$$$

Houston

Asian /
Mediterranean

 

(From April 2009) Robert Gadsby’s new, Mediterranean/Asian enterprise (following his fling with Orient-oriented dining at Soma) rates high on the imagination scale. Witness a so-called wild mushroom risotto—made with Texmati rice—with wafer-thin slices of grape and a Thai red curry sauce. Or the lamb osso buco, a huge chunk of quite tender meat, with caramelized “melting” onions, braised fennel, and a pomegranate seed garnish. Or a butternut squash “cappuccino” soup topped with a little salad of celery, apple, and granola. If you’re sensitive to noise, ask for a table away from the bar crowd. The artful, contemporary space, with tall plate-glass windows, is quite “live.” The “chef’s table,” the bar in front of the open kitchen, is much less intimidating than most such venues. Bar.

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BELLA

2626 Howell (214-855-5001)
Open Mon–Wed 11:30–2 & 5–10, Thur & Fri 11:30–2 & 5–11, Sat 5–11, Sun 11:30–11.
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$$–$$$

Dallas

Eclectic /
Mediterranean

 

(From September 2009) Sleek decor, an outdoor patio, and a slew of beautiful people add up to a must-try spot. First place on our visit went to an appetizer of roasted wild mushrooms with generous shavings of Parmesan. A close second was pappardelle lavishly sauced with veal bolognese and graced with a plump orb of ricotta. On the other hand, lackluster is how we’d describe the citrusy shrimp salad with heirloom tomatoes and smoked mozzarella—the cheese dominated the plate. Lemon ricotta cheesecake made amends: fabulous. Bar.

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BERNARD MEDITERRANEAN RESTAURANT

212 Grande Blvd, Tyler (903-534-0265)
Lunch Tue–Fri 11–2. Dinner Mon–Sat 5–10. Closed Sun. Reservations recommended.
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$$-$$$

Tyler

Italian /
Mediterranean

 

(From December 2009) We bypassed the tried-and-true menu at this upscale spot and ventured into nightly-specials territory. Salmon came delicately crusted with almonds and accompanied by a lovely mustard sauce, while trout was stuffed with crab and shrimp and served with a light marinara cream sauce. Friendly and attentive service capped off a perfect evening. Bar.

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RUFFINO’S

2455 Forest Park Blvd (817-923-0522)
Lunch Mon—Fri 11—2. Dinner Mon—Thur 5—9, Fri & Sat 5—10. Closed Sun.
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$$

Fort Worth

Italian /
Mediterranean

 

(From March 2009) Quiet enough to be considered a “date night” spot, this TCU neighborhood favorite offers the requisite special touches along with a solid Italian menu of salads, pizzas, and pastas. Between an amuse-bouche and a complimentary square of cheesecake for dessert, we sampled the vegetable fettuccine (an altogether pedestrian dish at many places) and discovered a delicious mix of pasta with eggplant, sun-dried tomatoes, red bell pepper, mushrooms, and onions. What a pleasant surprise for the noncarnivorous. Beer & wine.

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CAFE BYBLOS

6134 Richmond Ave (832-251-0505)
Open Sun–Thur 11–11, Fri & Sat 11–2 a.m. Reservations accepted.
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$$-$$$

Houston

Mediterranean

 

(From July 2009) Vast crowds could fit comfortably into this capacious Mediterranean dining room, whose tables and booths face a stage where entertainers shimmy and shake on weekends. On a slow weeknight, however, we were riveted by one well-prepared dish after another. Starter plates of baba ganouj and hummus, along with batinjan el-rahib (eggplant with lemon and garlic) and grilled halloumi (a mild goat or sheep cheese), were wiped clean before we faced equally fine kebab platters: marinated beef; minced lamb with parsley, onion, and pine nuts; and lamb in a spicy tomato sauce. A belly dancer would only have been a distraction. Bar.

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CATALAN

5555 Washington Ave (713-426-4260)
Open Tue–Thur 11–10, Fri 11-11, Sat 5–11, Sun 5–9. Closed Mon.
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$$-$$$

Houston

Mediterranean

 

(From December 2009) To say we’re captivated by accessible, elegant Catalan, with its imaginative, farm-centric menu, is an understatement. Consider: roasted triggerfish atop creamy mustard greens with bit of pork and field peas, all topped with jumbo lump crab. Or seared halibut over corn-and-bacon chowder with more oh-so-sweet crab. Preceding these were not-your-everyday soup and salad: local tomato gazpacho and baby arugula with figs and hazelnuts, both tasting garden-fresh. Bar.

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CHIC FROM BARCELONA

11909 Preston Rd at Forest Ln (972-239-2442)
Open Mon–Thur 11:30–9:30, Fri 11:30–11, Sat noon–11. Closed Sun.
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$$

Dallas

Mediterranean

 

(From November 2008) We applaud the new menu additions at this cosmopolitan place, with its lovely covered patio and saffron-hued dining room. Paella lovers will rejoice to find the classic Valencian rice dish offered for the first time; it can be ordered vegetarian or with chicken or shrimp (or both). A must-do appetizer is the signature shot glass of gazpacho puréed to a fare-thee-well. The crema catalana reminded us of a light crème brûlée kissed with citrus. Bar.

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COOL CAFE

123 Auditorium Circle or via Havana Riverwalk Inn (210-224-2665)
Open Mon-Wed 7 a.m.-10 p.m., Thur & Fri 7-11, Sat 9-11, Sun 9-9.
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$$

San Antonio

Mediterranean /
Middle Eastern

 

(From November 2009) This gem, behind the Havana Riverwalk Inn, serves mostly Mediterranean and Middle Eastern food. A splendid “fish kebab” featured broiled cubes of salmon adroitly flavored with saffron and lemon, while a beef pot roast with tomato sauce, more nearly a stew, had vigorous, deep flavors. Among the apps, we liked the tangy tabouleh salad and mirza ghasemi, a cold Persian eggplant and tomato combo. Informal yet digni-fied, Cool Café has vast river-view windows. Bar.

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CRUSH WINE BAR AND DELI

701 S. Polk (806-418-2011)
Open Mon–Thur 11–9, Fri & Sat 11–midnight. Closed Sun.
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$-$$

Amarillo

Mediterranean

 

(From February 2009) Housed in a newly renovated downtown building, this chic place offers empanadas and tapas in the evening and delicious salads and sandwiches during the day. We loved the crepe with roasted chicken, caramelized onions, mushrooms, and Gruyère and the smoked-salmon sandwich served on herb flatbread with cream cheese, spinach, tomato, and balsamic. Reserve the chocolate soufflé cake when you place your order. Beer & wine.

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