East Texas Region

(From March 2011) Attached to its own upscale grocery, the bistro gets fresh fare right on site and prepares it well. Add a sleek, wood-accented setting, good service, and convenient hours (especially for the nearby concert venue), and it’s no surprise that the crowds keep coming. One of us ate lightly with a luscious tarte flambée (think smoked bacon and crème fraiche) and a crab cake with cayenne rémoulade, while the other went for an oak-grilled 12-ounce strip with a green-peppercorn rub and sides of frites and asparagus. Bar

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(From December 2010) Peach-toned walls give a flattering glow to the interior of Arturo Boada and Bill Sadler’s Uptown Park restaurant, but its columned porch beckoned us on a mild evening. Two great salads kept our attention: a caprese of yellow and red grape tomatoes, mozzarella, capers, oregano, and basil and an inspired mix of baby greens, walnuts, pancetta, orange slices, and goat cheese. Sonia’s Ravioli, stuffed with chicken and porcini mushrooms and served with white wine–basil sauce, proved delicious and beyond rich, but it didn’t preclude our sharing a slice of tiramisu. Bar.

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(From December 2010) The warm brick walls and large French doors remain, but the Vallone family operators have added some art and new paint and generally spiffed up the old La Strada location. Happily, the food meets new standards too. We liked our pale green heirloom tomato gazpacho, which benefited from a nice pile of crabmeat in the middle, and a lovely salad with cherry tomatoes, watermelon, arugula, and goat cheese. Our meat eater approved charred lamb T-bones with mint vinegar, and our vegetarian enjoyed the pappardelle with tomatoes and burrata. One cavil: The breads could use improvement. Bar.

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(From January 2012)

In a college town, restaurants come and go. But for three decades, Cenare—hidden in an unassuming shopping center—has beaten the odds with super food and a charming atmosphere. We started our meal with two antipasti items: spicy cheese ravioli (breaded and toasted—a Midwestern American specialty) and crab-stuffed mushrooms topped with a zesty Creole mustard sauce. For the main course, we tried two distinctly different dishes: gnocchi (potato dumplings) in a thick, rich pesto cream sauce and spaghetti alla vongole (clams with a white wine and garlic sauce, a lighter option). Even though sangria originated in Spain, Italy and other countries love it too. Cenare’s refreshing fruity version went well with almost everything.

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(From May 2011) The 48-ounce porterhouse made the guys in our group very happy. The distaff side of the party acquitted itself admirably with a couple of items from the blackboard menu—scallops with a tangerine mostarda, snapper ravioli with herbs and pecorino—plus a hefty veal chop with black truffle risotto. Prices are not modest, but for our money the best Italian food in town—indeed, some of the best food, period—can be found in this cozy cottage. Bar.

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(From May 2011) We lazed on the terrace of this old house on a recent evening, sipping Italian wines and feasting on shaved brussels sprouts with pecorino and paper-thin prosciutto; orecchiette spiked with escarole and sweet sausage; and a thin-crusted pizza loaded with tomato, mozzarella, prosciutto, and arugula. We had a minor quibble with tough paccheri pasta in a lackluster tomato sauce, but overall we were a happy bunch. Bar.

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(From March 2011) Cheers to the Vincent Mandola family for featuring a small-plates menu and a wide range of Italian libations in their West Dallas backyard patio-bar, one of our town’s most pleasant alfresco spots. A friendly waiter said we’d love the warm arancine (fried risotto balls with a core of melting cheese), and he was right. Same for the crab claws in garlic-lemon butter. The Mini Vinnie, a portion of veal par-migiano, plus mezzaluna pasta stuffed with chicken and ricotta, completed our meal—save for a digestivo, of course. Grappa, anyone? Bar.

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(From October 2010) Duilio Tani stayed true to his Italian heritage and to his father, Luigi, by creating a lovely European alfresco setting complete with a waterfall. Live music enhances the atmosphere, as well as your appetite. The salmon filet boasted simple flavors with its basil-lemon pesto, grilled vegetables, and side of fettuccine. Our waiter suggested adding shrimp to our order of fettuccine Alfredo, which turned out to be good ad-vice, as the bland cream sauce needed a punch. There was plenty of punch, though, in the triple chocolate truffle martini! Bar.

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(From July 2011)

With the pizza industry overrun by chain restaurants, dining at Mr. G’s, in downtown Bryan, is a refreshing reprieve. Giovanni Cerone, the patriarch of this family of restaurateurs, clearly takes great pride in his creations; he’s warm and welcoming when you enter his restaurant and notoriously cranky if you dare ask to substitute ingredients. Pizzas run the gamut, from a spinach alfredo version to a gyro pizza (seasoned beef and tzatziki). But the stars of the show are the calzones, giant half-moons of golden crust stuffed with fresh meats, vegetables, and cheeses. We’re partial to the original: pepperoni with a flavorful blend of mozzarella and ricotta. Add in a bruschetta, some side salads, and a dessert, and you’ve got the perfect meal. 

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(From November 2011)

Fans of Simposio’s are heading west for chef Alberto Baffoni’s new digs in Royal Oaks. The convivial atmosphere belies its strip-center location, and meals worthy of special occasions are standard fare. We started with a fetching combo of peppery arugula, paper-thin beef carpaccio, and shaved Parmesan, then followed that with deliciously fresh strozzapreti pasta with broccoli and pancetta. Grilled red snapper with rosemary-scented roasted potatoes and sautéed green beans, zucchini, and asparagus was equally lovely. Bar.

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