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VALENTINO VIN BAR

Hotel Derek, 2525 West Loop South
(713-850-9200)
Breakfast 7 days 7-11:30. Lunch 7 days 11:30–4:30. Dinner Mon–Sat 5:30–10. Reservations recommended.
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$$$–$$$$

Houston

No cuisine listed

(From January 2011) The Selvaggio Group (Santa Monica and Las Vegas) has staked out its claim in Houston at the Hotel Derek, adding contemporary red touches to a formerly muted dining room and touting world-class Italian cuisine. We happily devoured a crudo array from the raw bar—ahi tuna with wasabi aioli, white tuna and passionfruit, pompano with lemon sauce, and green-apple-topped scallops—and gave high marks to a wild mushroom risotto and a simple entrée of sliced NY steak. Service, though, with one overworked waitress, failed to deliver. Bar.

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