Houston

(From June 2012)

It appears to be just a modest house in Montrose, but it’s as close to truly regional Italian cooking as you’ll find in town. Understated surroundings and expert service put the emphasis on fine food and drink. Recent selections included shaved celery with thin slices of beet and pecorino; sweet corn ravioli surrounded by lobster claw meat; and roasted whole branzino, filleted and served alongside braised fennel and rosemary potatoes. It’s well worth the splurge.
Extensive Italian wine list. Bar.

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(From May 2012)

At Indika, the small touches of color, taste, and texture make all the difference. Deep burgundy-toned beet soup, puréed with coconut, garbanzos, and ginger, has a clever little slab of grilled paneer perched on the rim; a thick pork chop vindaloo is stuffed with paneer masala and sweet caramelized onions. Expect knowledgeable servers and a modern saffron-hued setting with soaring ceilings. Bar.

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(From May 2012)

We delighted in a new treatment of luscious buratta, served with warm polenta, herbs, and curls of rich pancetta. Alas, our entrée of Gulf Coast snapper was marred by overcooked fish (nicely moistened, though, by its pool of reduced barolo wine) and three minuscule potatoes and a smear of spinach—hardly what we would call sides. Expect expert service; a gracious, art-filled setting; and, perhaps, a tableside visit from longtime restaurateur Tony Vallone himself. Bar.

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(From May 2012)

Lots of things work at this Heights restaurant and publike bar: warm wood and brick accents, flattering lighting, a comfortable atmosphere, and, most important, imaginative food that tastes great. Case in point: slow-cooked deboned beef short ribs, fetchingly arranged on braised kale and rich mushroom risotto. Equally delicious: seared diver scallops and butternut squash ravioli with crispy prosciutto and plate-lickin’-good brown butter sauce. We were also impressed with our capable server, whose wine suggestions proved spot-on. Bar.

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(From May 2012)

Spaghetti cacio e pepe-a supremely simple and stylish dish-shows off what Dolce Vita does so well. But we do relish the occasional surprise-whoknew that a pile of room temperature cauliflower adorned with red grapes, pine nuts, and a light vinaigrette could taste so good? Other highlights included truffled toast, gnocchi, and an arugula, pear, and cheese pizza. Funky and fun setting in an old house. Bar.

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(From June 2011)

The narrow side room makes a more intimate, and quieter, setting in which to dine. And though some dishes feel as lofty as the room’s vaulted ceiling (too complicated for their own good), most hit the, ahem, mark. Two of us went with specials—grilled Tasmanian salmon with a crab and shrimp risotto and a seafood trio involving hearth-roasted lobster, diver scallops, and grilled shrimp—while an-other chose the roasted chicken, which came with some chicken sau-sage and grits, plus a ratatouille with portobello and arugula. Bar.

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(From March 2012)

A recent visit to chef-owner Mark Cox's intimate restaurant in a lofty converted 1920's church reminded us how romantic it is. We were equally charmed with a Southern-inspired roasted chicken and house-made chicken sausage over sweet corn-studded grits and spicy ratatouille relish, as well as a sophisticated dish of seared sesame-crusted ahi medallions served with a timbale of toothy edamame risotto and sauteed Asian vegetables. Polished, helpful service took the sting out of the pricey wine list. Bar.

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(From May 2012)

We like this place, its walls of windows and industrial concrete surfaces softened with bright, gauzy fabric panels, as well as its friendly vibe and service. And we love the Indian home cooking and street-food fare. Recently we dug into a mountain of Berkshire pork ribs vindaloo, as tender as any we’ve tasted, their heat tamed with discreet dollops of yogurt. Leg of lamb, onions, turnips, and butternut squash comprised an excellent curry, and the addictive pickled Texas shrimp chaat would appeal to anyone with a taste for ceviche. Beer & wine.

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(From June 2012)

This chic space attracts an equally stylish crowd that comes for fine service, generally successful fare, and to see and be seen. Our group fought over terrific nachos, the sturdy chips paved with refrieds, oniony steak, and lovely blobs of guacamole. Roasted cinnamon-laced pheasant proved pleasant, with its caramelized onions and chunky mushrooms, but a filet of snapper disappointed—fresh enough, but with a scant, bland ginger cream sauce. Its unexpected sidekick of Asian-style braised bok choy, however, was
tender and tasty. Warm chocolate cake left a sweet impression. Bar.

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(From January 2011)

Landmark Hospitality Group’s takeover of the restaurant in the Galleria Saks store included a welcome redo, and the resulting white-to-beige space, featuring a lighted rose sculpture on one wall, should suit savvy shoppers who crave a break from the chase. For lunch we chose the special, halibut with crab and saffron risotto, along with a salad of greens and cantaloupe, but we found the chicken and wild mushroom crepes in basil-chardonnay sauce even more special. This quiet haven beats nearby fast-food joints, and it’s only a few dollars more. Bar.

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