Houston

(From January 2011) At this softly lit Brennan’s outpost in CityCentre’s Hotel Sorella, expect a fusion of Texas tastes and Creole cuisine. Dishes can be hit or miss, but all are ambitious and presented stylishly. Our favorite? A bone-in pork chop brined in Creole mustard and rum, perfectly grilled, and served with mashed new potatoes gussied up with bacon and jalapeño. Alas, rainbow trout was overcooked and trying to catch its breath under all the seasoning, pecans, and brown butter. Bar.

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(From May 2012)

We imagined the theme from Cheers as we made our way through the rollicking saloon to a big ol’ booth in the dining room. All things to all people, the menu offers Asian-spiced seared sea bass with snow peas; smoky, bacon-wrapped meat loaf with collards and mashed sweet potatoes; and perfectly cooked, though overly herbed, ribeye. Our burger-lover raved over his bacon-cheddar version, topped with crispy onion strings. Bar.  

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(From April 2012)

Initially we thought of Down House as a comfy spot for brunch, what with its whole-grain waffles, breakfast tacos, and Bloody Marys. Now we look to the house for a great selection of beers and a good meal day or night. Comfort food abounds, like mussels and leeks steamed in cider; a meaty braised lamb shank; and buttermilk fried chicken. Given that Down House is named after Darwin’s abode, such evolution should come as no surprise. Bar.

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(From May 2012)

A beet-and-mushroom-infused margarita? Delicious (although we couldn't taste the mushroom). Inventive drinks, a youthful vibe, and a big bad mural are the main lures of this Heights hangout, but the food holds its own. Oaxacan cheese-and-vegeatble quesadillas and chile-spiked snapper ceviche are small-plate winners, while a hefty burger with pepperjack and poblanos will satisfy a bigger appetite. Bar.

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(From January 2012)

Though we're often ravin' over Haven, our last visit proved a mixed bag. As always, the warm room made a lovely venue for chef Randy Evans’s upscale comfort food. Top marks went to crawfish tails with gnocchi, leeks, and corn, and four side dishes that our friend ordered as his entrée: luscious roasted corn with cheese, slow-cooked cheese grits, a new-potato hash, and shelled peas—all terrific. However, chicken with bacon spaetzle, usually great, came off dry, and a tomato “sundae,” with aged balsamic and an olive oil–lemon ice cream, lacked, of all things, first-rate tomatoes.

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(From June 2011) Chef-owner Scott Tycer has converted Textile into a nifty neighborhood breakfast and lunch hangout. We lingered in the sunny, spare room over two bountiful salads: spinach with avo-cado, bacon, and egg in a creamy balsamic, and the Nice and Nice, with mixed greens, olives, and goat cheese with sun-dried-tomato vinaigrette. Signature sandwiches, such as the luscious Cold Fish (smoked salmon, capers, arugula, and a ricotta spread) come on gorgeous baked-on-site bread. The petite patio out front is a prime perch. BYOB.

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(From March 2012)

Who knew that Chinese and Japanese immigrants had such a strong impact on Peruvian cuisine? You can taste the delicious results in chef Roberto Castre’s tiny but pleasantly outfitted dining room just north of downtown. Take sashimi, for example; here, thin slices of marinated white fish are served, along with nibbles of sweet potatoes and corn, in creamy sauces based on Peruvian chiles. Or consider the arroz chaufa especial, a Peruvian fried rice dish with chicken, beef, and pork. For purer Latin bites, we love the flaky empanadas filled with beef, onions, and tomatoes. Note: Latin Bites is moving in mid-December and will reopen mid-January. BYOB.

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(From May 2012)

It’s no coincidence that Local Foods sits cheek by jowl with Benjy’s—the same folks own both operations. This order-at-the-counter, eat-in or take-out spot is drawing crowds, who line up for the nicely priced, simply prepared food. Truffled egg salad on a pretzel bun proved a satisfying handful and came with a choice of two sides or a soup (we chose an avocado, potato, and leek version)—all for $9. Sides include house-made potato chips, a lively cabbage slaw, and beets with pistachios. Local sourcing is the rule, with gardens, farms, ranches, and the like listed on the menu. Beer & wine.

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(From August 2011)

A fire closed this Houston favorite for a time, but the new space is large, airy, and abuzz with devoted fans. From the crisp crepe stuffed with shrimp and pork to the steaming bowl of soup with mustard greens, ginger, and shrimp, the diverse and skillful menu explains why folks are so happy that Mai’s is back where she belongs. The occasional flub, like overcooked garlic chicken with asparagus and mushrooms, is more than balanced out by the high quality overall. Bar.

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(From June 2011)

The narrow side room makes a more intimate, and quieter, setting in which to dine. And though some dishes feel as lofty as the room’s vaulted ceiling (too complicated for their own good), most hit the, ahem, mark. Two of us went with specials—grilled Tasmanian salmon with a crab and shrimp risotto and a seafood trio involving hearth-roasted lobster, diver scallops, and grilled shrimp—while an-other chose the roasted chicken, which came with some chicken sau-sage and grits, plus a ratatouille with portobello and arugula. Bar.

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