Houston

(From July 2008) There’s nothing quite like the authentic food and icy cervezas served from the trailers and stalls that line the streets of Mexico City, but we played a good game of pretend at this Southwest Freeway storefront. Its taco-stand facade set the mood for our small flour-tortilla tacos—one each of fajita, spicy chipotle brisket, and chicken mole. The chipotle mix (tinga) also starred in miniature masa “pies” (sopes), along with black beans, onions, and cheese. Tres leches cake rounded out a satisfying, if imaginary, trip south. Beer & margaritas.

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(From May 2009) A quiet meal in a plush room with rich red accents and lovely contemporary crystal chandeliers makes for a special night out—with prices to match. But a humble dish done well is a joy, like the moist roasted chicken with chanterelles and brioche-thickened chicken jus; it’s served with brussels sprouts and a side of crusty mac and cheese. And don’t let us forget to mention a kabocha squash soup with a bit of brown butter and sage and meaty pan-seared crab cake with a blood-orange-and-fennel sabayon. This is a place that shows Houston to good advantage. Bar.

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(From December 2008) “Over the top” is no overstatement for the latest incarnation of this celebrated restaurant. Stairs from a swanky lounge lead down to sweeping water walls, and tropical-themed murals adorn the ceiling of the riverside dining room. The drama continues with the menu, with starters like plump pork ribs wrapped in bacon and glazed with tamarind and entrées like crisp-skinned roasted salmon atop avocado mousse and seared redfish with smoked tomato jus and tamale gnocchi (talk about fusion!). Bar.

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(From November 2008) Silver-haired chef-owner Andrea Pintus (formerly of Patrenella’s) lovingly rules over his new far-west strip-center domain, a spacious spot softened by arches and faux-marble columns. Tasty involtini—thin-sliced fried eggplant wrapped into rolls with ham, salami, and provolone—got us off to a protein-packed start. Even more impressive were the generous entrées: ravioli stuffed with veal, sage, and Parmesan and house-made gnocchi with a mellow Gorgonzola sauce. We expect to be regulars here. Beer & wine.

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(From December 2009) This charming little house welcomes local Francophiles with genuine Texas warmth and authentic French fare, a winning combination if ever there was one. The chicken tartlet comes packed with fal-lish onions and Swiss. The slow-cooked, fork-tender beef cheeks with chive-studded potatoes and the scallops with a luscious purée of curried cauliflower both outclassed a slightly overcooked skate filet buried under a coating of capers. Nice wine list. Bar.

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(From June 2008) Inner Loopers seldom venture to the burbs to eat, but Missouri City folks seem to know something the rest of us don’t. This attractive storefront, broken into small, cozy areas, attracts big crowds for imaginative food at small-town prices. Prime examples include burrata cheese with tomatoes and a balsamic vinaigrette and the Surf & Turf, a clever combo of sea scallops and deboned beef short ribs in a burgundy reduction. Filet mignon, rubbed with pepper and served with a cognac mushroom sauce and fries, proved a bargain at $24. Beer & wine.

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(From December 2009) When we need stress relief, we head for Backstreet. Sipping cocktails, noshing on house-made chips with a gorgeous medley of heirloom tomatoes, roasted corn, cucumbers, and avocado, and savoring a bowl of soothing poblano-corn chowder, we actually considered repeating the first course. Instead, we moved on happily to pan-seared snapper with jumbo lump crabmeat and an order of exceptionally good chicken enchila-das. Backstreet just never disappoints. Bar.

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(From October 2008) In a bare-bones storefront tucked behind a service station at the crossroads of Montrose and West­heimer, personable owner/waiter Brooks Bassler serves up Cajun favorites at all hours. His fine seafood gumbo was actually upstaged by (surprise!) a peppy vegetable bisque. Crusty, bursting-at-the-seams po’boys (roast beef, oysters, shrimp) had us vowing to try more NOLA standards, like grillades and grits. Not to mention Abita beer and Barq’s root beer. Beer, wine, & daiquiris.

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(From July 2009) A happy young-to-youngish crowd fills this unassuming place in the Heights. The proprietor is Monica Pope, chef-owner of T’afia, so the buzz and popularity are to be expected. We started with an appetizer of melted cheese studded with chiles and pico, then moved on to a gargantuan barbecue plate (only $15 for a couple of ribs, brisket, vinegary shredded pork, and half a link of sausage, plus large sides of coleslaw and potato salad) and a big, juicy burger with cheese, bacon, and onion. To say we waddled out is the understatement of the year. Bar.

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(From August 2009) The zaftig beauties you get at this Houston-area mini-chain are gorgeous. The quarter-pound patty, from chuck ground daily, is grilled over mesquite coals. The slightly sweet bun is pale yellow and lightly toasted. Each element is stacked with care. But wait! Before chowing down, you must slather on Beck’s Prime Sauce, a silky, tomatoey mayonnaise. The finalbonus is that Beck’s, though comfy and informal, is no dive; you could take your grandma here.

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